Guest
Can someone tell me the difference between raw and boiled linseed oil?
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Guest
Yup. One's boiled the other ain't. Actually it's an oil pressed from the Lin tree seeds.
These trees are nearly extinct now due to increasing numbers of Nauga that feed on the Lin tree bark. The Nauga was nearly hunted to extinction for it's nauga-hide!
(whoooooo-boy, too much medication. :shake
These trees are nearly extinct now due to increasing numbers of Nauga that feed on the Lin tree bark. The Nauga was nearly hunted to extinction for it's nauga-hide!
(whoooooo-boy, too much medication. :shake
Boiled dries eventually. Raw doesn't. Use raw on a gunstock and it stays gooey forever.
robinghewitt
62 Cal.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2004
- Messages
- 2,605
- Reaction score
- 20
Boiled dries to a crystaline, resinous cake and escapes from the bottle, doesn't matter how hard you close the cap and gravity is no stop to it. There is also "boiled" linseed which is raw linseed plus driers, works okay.
You can sink a wheel spoke in hot boiled linseed and reduce it's expansion and contraction with the changing weather somewhat, you can brush it onto your cricket bat once a year, you can rub it in to your cherished gun stock one drop at a time or use it to seal a damascene pattern. The list goes on, versatile stuff.
You can sink a wheel spoke in hot boiled linseed and reduce it's expansion and contraction with the changing weather somewhat, you can brush it onto your cricket bat once a year, you can rub it in to your cherished gun stock one drop at a time or use it to seal a damascene pattern. The list goes on, versatile stuff.
Guest
Robin,
A blacksmith's trick is to bore a hole lengthwise in a hammer handle, fill it with linseed oil, then plug it with a dowel. The oil is said to toughen the fibers from the inside out and make the handle flexible.
A blacksmith's trick is to bore a hole lengthwise in a hammer handle, fill it with linseed oil, then plug it with a dowel. The oil is said to toughen the fibers from the inside out and make the handle flexible.
Guest
Linseed oil is from the seed of the Flax plant. The very same grasslike plant gives us the fabirc "muslin", A nice, fine, soft, and supple material used as clothing for milleinia. Flax Tow; is the remaining chards of the flax plant that is too course to use as fabric,it's mild abrasive qualties as well as it's ability to absorb moisture has made it a favorite for ml shooters to clean and swab their firearms for centuries. A good wad or nest of tow makes a dandy fire starter also when used with char cloth/rope and a flint and steel.
Raw linseed oil is a great wood preservitve, a little dab spreads along ways! But it can take weeks to dry/cure. This stuff was used once maybe twice a year,to protect and preserve gun stocks.
Boiled Linseed oil isn't boiled. It's simply raw oil with drying agents added. There is no "standard" drying agent used to make "boiled" linseed oil, each manufacurer can use some thing different and many such substances have become a "patened" product; Thompsen water seal,Watco oil,Minnwax, just to name a few. The old standard was 2 parts linseed oil and one part turpintine. The stock finishing products we get sold today are Tru-coat,True-oil,Permilyn,,ect...
Linseed oil is still the best,but it takes a LONG time,,and requires additional loving care for years to come.
Raw linseed oil is a great wood preservitve, a little dab spreads along ways! But it can take weeks to dry/cure. This stuff was used once maybe twice a year,to protect and preserve gun stocks.
Boiled Linseed oil isn't boiled. It's simply raw oil with drying agents added. There is no "standard" drying agent used to make "boiled" linseed oil, each manufacurer can use some thing different and many such substances have become a "patened" product; Thompsen water seal,Watco oil,Minnwax, just to name a few. The old standard was 2 parts linseed oil and one part turpintine. The stock finishing products we get sold today are Tru-coat,True-oil,Permilyn,,ect...
Linseed oil is still the best,but it takes a LONG time,,and requires additional loving care for years to come.
While fondleing some blacksmith tongs in an antique store, I saw some old gowns of various sizes hanging, & whatever they were made of,(linen)? I could see read my watch thru front and back together. So much for modesty in the olde days. Don
Guest
Humph! Go to your room and don't come out till you brew up a better patch lube than Stumpy's Moose Snot! :blah: :blah:
Guest
Thank you for your replies, guys.
By the way, my original question was:
"Can someone tell me the difference in performance between raw and boiled linseed oil?"
I than erased "in performance" just to see if someone would swallow the hook. Didn't expect it with the first reply :blah:
By the way, my original question was:
"Can someone tell me the difference in performance between raw and boiled linseed oil?"
I than erased "in performance" just to see if someone would swallow the hook. Didn't expect it with the first reply :blah:
