LMF blueing

[buggybuilder]

I'm finally going to brown and blue tomorrow.
I'm going to use LMF.
Do I need to put all of the required coats on in one day or can this system be interrupted and finish them on another day? If this is possible, where would my breaking point be?
Thanks
Bob

 

[Goldhunter]

Well, here's my .02. It depends. How much rust do you want to accumulate? If I had to stop the process for a day or two, I'd stop after carding and neutralize. You can stop the rusting process after carding by washing the metal in a baking soda mixture; this neutralizes it. you can then put it up for a day or so without much worry about further rusting.

Also, when I did the rust blue, I did two complete, if not a bit long, sessions of just browning. I then scalded after the second browning. I achieved what I wanted scalding twice. But each barrel or trigger guard seems to be a bit different so it will depend.

good luck. :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

If I wanted to postpone finishing the browning I would heat the barrel to remove any moisture that might be in the rust that had formed and then move it to a dry area with as little humidity as possible. It should "keep" for several days without any extra rust forming.

By the way, any loose red rust that forms is not what is wanted anyway so if it starts forming just carding it off will get the barrel back to the desired finish.

While I'm talking, I'll add a bit of speculation based on my reading.

Colt and Smith & Wesson used steam to blacken the brown rust on their fine pistols.

With this knowledge it occurs to me that steam could be used in lieu of pouring on some boiling water. Steam also has the advantage that it is pure water with no minerals in it so one could boil hard water in a teapot without fear of ruining the blacking process. Of course great care is needed around steam but not much more than is needed around boiling water.

Some day I'll have to try that!

 

[gmww]

Hey Zonie thanks for the steam idea. I've always wanted to do a full barrel but was too lazy to make something long enough to hold it in hot water. I've only done small parts in distilled water over a stove. I'll have to give the steam idea a try. :thumbsup:

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you are going to interrupt the process for a few days, I suggest neutralizing the "rusting " by rinsing the part in water, and even use a baking soda paste mix- B.S. mixed with water-- to coat the part( barrel?) to stop the reaction. Otherwise, you may get deep pits in the finish that you didn't want. There is NOTHING wrong with taking your time and doing it right, after all the time and effort you put in to making the gun up to this point. Rust Bluing with Steam can be done, but it means your hands and probably your face need to be protected around the steam.

You want to be wearing very clean gloves when handling the metal- any oil will prevent the steam from changing the rust you touch with it. Buy some of the cheap Cotton work gloves, and wash them several times to get any oils out of them, before using them for this project. And, or you can use wooden dowels in both ends of the barrel to help you hold it over the steam. :thumbsup:

 

[gmww]

If you decide to rinse it with water to stop the rusting after baking soda solution, you might want to use distilled water if your planning on turning it black. LMF warns about regular tap water when boiling. (see above link)

I know its talking about the boiling process but why take the chance even if its cold water. Just my humble opinion.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I agree. At the very least, you want to try "rust bluing" with steam, using both tap water, and distilled water on a small piece of scrap metal to see if there is a difference. Flushing with distilled water will eliminate the possibility of minerals in the water affecting the "rust".

Even after you stop the rust process with baking soda and water- you probably will want to flush the part with distilled water to remove all traces of the baking soda, before beginning the LMF rust process over again.

 

[gmww]

Here is an example of turning the brown to black. This was the order I did it.

1. Four LMF applications with carding in between.
2. At the end of the fourth I dropped them into boiling distilled water. Carded again.

3. Three more applications of LMF like #1.
4. At the end of the third I boiled again in distilled water.

5. Wiped the exess off and stopped the process with baking soda slurry followed by ammonia bath.

It came out a dark flat black with is good for my peep sight. I also like how the screws, hammer, trigger and spring came out. (fig. 2)

(fig. 2)

 

[Little Wattsy]

If I wanted to postpone finishing the browning I would heat the barrel to remove any moisture that might be in the rust that had formed and then move it to a dry area with as little humidity as possible. It should "keep" for several days without any extra rust forming.

By the way, any loose red rust that forms is not what is wanted anyway so if it starts forming just carding it off will get the barrel back to the desired finish.

While I'm talking, I'll add a bit of speculation based on my reading.

Colt and Smith & Wesson used steam to blacken the brown rust on their fine pistols.

With this knowledge it occurs to me that steam could be used in lieu of pouring on some boiling water. Steam also has the advantage that it is pure water with no minerals in it so one could boil hard water in a teapot without fear of ruining the blacking process. Of course great care is needed around steam but not much more than is needed around boiling water.

Some day I'll have to try that!

I would heat the barrel to remove any moisture that might be in the rust that had formed and then move it to a dry area with as little humidity as possible. THATS the ticket!