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LMF question
- Thread starter mtech
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I have never done it like that. I just kill the rust process with a baking soda bath after I get the deep brown I want and then oil all the brown and so far am pleased with the results :hatsoff:
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mtech said:
I've never heard you needed to do that, so I've never even tried it. I don't think I've missed a thing going the baking soda bath route instead.
Have you tried the instructions?
It's a sticky here on the forum, http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm
It's a sticky here on the forum, http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm
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BrownBear said:
The barrel heating isn't an alternative to the baking soda bath. The LMF instructions state to heat the barrel so it's warm after the baking soda bath just to drive off any last remaining water.
I did it on mine, but I'm not sure it really did much of anything. But I was just meticulously following LMF's directions. It didn't hurt anything to do it and only took a few minutes.
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Shows I'm reading-challenged a bit, don't it! :wink:
Thanks. Never tried it that way, and never felt a penalty for it, any more than I feel the need to heat a barrel after cleaning in water.
Thanks. Never tried it that way, and never felt a penalty for it, any more than I feel the need to heat a barrel after cleaning in water.
Because I usually brown during the winter months w/ the attendant low humidity in the house, after the first application of LMF, the bbl and components apend 12 hrs in the "sweatbox". Then after carding and the second coat, another 12 hrs in the sweatbox. Thereafter it's only 4-5 hrs and it usually requires 3 of these 4-5 hr stays in the sweatbox w/ carding in between coats.
Obtaining a "shallow" brown that has a nice color, makes it easier to neutralize and seeing I've had lousy luck w/ baking soda, now use ammonia which really eliminates any hint of after rust. A hot rinse and drying completes the neutralizing.
A very light rub down w/ 0000 steel wool that has a generous amount of Oxyoke 1000 in it, a final wipe, a light coat of Oxyoke 1000 and that's it.
LMF's instructions give a wide latitude of time because of varying humidity and a little experimenting is in order.
Just completed the browning of the parts for the latest Lancaster using the above procedure w/ excellent results....Fred
Obtaining a "shallow" brown that has a nice color, makes it easier to neutralize and seeing I've had lousy luck w/ baking soda, now use ammonia which really eliminates any hint of after rust. A hot rinse and drying completes the neutralizing.
A very light rub down w/ 0000 steel wool that has a generous amount of Oxyoke 1000 in it, a final wipe, a light coat of Oxyoke 1000 and that's it.
LMF's instructions give a wide latitude of time because of varying humidity and a little experimenting is in order.
Just completed the browning of the parts for the latest Lancaster using the above procedure w/ excellent results....Fred
Little Wattsy
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mtech said:
I say yes.. I did one once and got a GREAT brown coat. "Killed the rust" and a few days later it was rusting again. Water and unkilled rust traped below the outer layer come back to haunt me... Talked to the LMF company to question the process and got this info as well....
It only takes a minute to do so and it helps avoid issues later.
