LMF Stain & True Oil

[Micah Clark]

I am considering using True Oil with a Lancaster Maple or regular Maple stain by LMF, on my build. (A Late lancaster with about 30% curl in a maple stock. )

I know this is a topic likely addressed before . . . I've never used True Oil, but somehow I have two bottles of it (one old enough to be in the brown glass bottle) . . .

Anybody got any pics of either of these LMF stains with a true oil finish on their ML ?

Thanks !!

 

[Micah Clark]

By the way . . . I have been staining wood samples and I had thought that the True Oil might effect the color, but it doesn't seem to do so. . which is why I am considering using it, and because I know many people choose it.

 

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

let me premise this by stating that I am bottom of the food chain in this forum, and likely others will have better ideas than myself...

what I do when I want to see how a particular finish will react with a specific piece of wood I am working on is to apply samples of the different finishes side by side in areas that will not be seen once you are finished (ie the lock inlet, underneath the two big side panels that surround your patch box door...etc etc..) this way you can see in person how what you do and how you do it will turn out on the specific piece of wood you have with the different finishes.

 

[jimmy82]

This is the honey maple with one or two coats of Truoil. I'm leaning more towards one, because this was my first build and since then has lost some of the shine on the fore-stock.

 

[Micah Clark]

That's a really pretty rifle, and a really nice job on a first build. This is my first build too. . .and you used the stain (HM) color I considered and may yet choose . . but am leaning a little darker.

Nice job on the lock plate, beavertail and front lock panel molding.

Thanks for sharing !!!!

 

[Cowboy]

By the way . . . I have been staining wood samples and I had thought that the True Oil might effect the color, but it doesn't seem to do so. . which is why I am considering using it, and because I know many people choose it.

I have used Tru-oil on all my muzzleloaders after I applied the stain. I hand rubbed the Tru-oil in and after the coat has dried I use 0000 steelwool to knock any wiskers off and dull out any chance of a shiney surface. Then I take an air compressor to blow the stock of real good to eliminate any chance of a stray strand of steelwool left behind. I repeat the whole process until I get the desired look Im after. I usually apply 4 to 5 coats on an average. I have never had a problem with the Tru-oil effecting the stain on the stock. Respectfully, Cowboy :hatsoff:

 

[Spikebuck]

Tru Oil works great. I put 6 coats on. These are very light coats finger rubbed in a drop at a time. Dry and buff with 0000 steel wool between coats. Finish off with Johnson's paste wax.

Somebody on this site has stated that if you open a bottle of Tru Oil and don't use it all, then if it sits for some time, it's best to throw it out and just get a new bottle, especially considering the price. THEY ARE RIGHT! I had used a part of a new bottle on one build, went on great. About a year later I started to use the same bottle on another build. Did not apply nearly as well. Remembered the post, threw it out and restarted with a new bottle. Perfect.

Not sure what the shelf life is of an open bottle, but I know I won't let any sit around for a year after opening and then use it.

 

[Vaino]

No doubt Truoil will protect the stock, but I've always shied away from the "shiny look" and don't like to go through the extra labor of dulling it. So...I've been using 2 products that yield a very moisture resistant finish w/o having to spend time dulling what I just applied. Shown below are some pics of LRs that have the finish in the wood in lieu of on the wood and no dulling is necessary.....Fred

 

[Micah Clark]

Flehto,

Those rifles are beautiful . . . great carving . . . I have always used Spar Urethane or Poly Urethane out of a can on nearly every modern rifle after stain . . .so this is a little new for me. Sounds like if I do use True Oil, I need a new bottle . . .which means if I am putting out money, even $10 . . I am open to any option. What product do you use?

Thanks

 

[jimmy82]

Thanks :hatsoff: I don't know why I put so few coats on back then, the others guys are right to use more. I think with more coats my fore-stock would not have dulled out as much as it has.

 

[Cowboy]

Fred, That sure is a beautiful rifle! :thumbsup: Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[Onojutta]

Boiled linseed oil may not offer the most durability, but can't beat it for looks especially on these types of guns, IMHO. To me Tru Oi is for modern guns.

BLO takes several hand rubbed coats to build up the finish, but once established I have found that a light coat once every year or three is easy maintenance.

 

[Micah Clark]

Interesting . . . thanks, I'll check that out. . I think it is mentioned in my Gunsmith of Greenville County manual.

 

[Vaino]

LMF sealer for first coats and then Wahkon Bay for top coats.....Fred

 

[rusty]

I like to use equal amounts of spar varnish, boiled linseed oil and turpentine or paint thinner.

 

[Micah Clark]

Wow . . . some of these are new to me . . . thanks for the info.

I can't recall if it is LMF or Jim Chambers, but there's something in a yellow metal bottle guys use called something like Permalyn . .I may be way off base. . . anyone who used that able to correct my spelling and make a recommendation on it?

 

[Onojutta]

Something else you might consider is tung oil. Not as authentic as BLO but get gives a nice satin finish and maybe a bit more durable (a friend of mine actually finished his hard wood floors with tung oil).

I have a Lyman Trade Rifle with walnut stock that I stripped down and refinished with several hand rubbed coats of tung oil and it turned out great. I thought much nicer than the gloss finish from the factory. I'd post a picture but it's about due for a touch up (after many hunts in rain and snow).

 

[Onojutta]

After my last post I actually found a couple pictures of the Lyman after refinished back in 2009. I believe the fist picture was right after, and the second with the deer might have been the following year's hunt. Not the best pictures, but might give some idea of the tung oil finish...

 

[Spikebuck]

Boiled linseed oil may not offer the most durability,

The problem with straight BLO is that is doesn't protect from moisture, in fact it can hold it in.

If I were to use just BLO, I would certainly use a good furniture paste wax over top of it.

Tru Oil is Linseed Oil, but with hardeners to create a tuff, water resistant finish.

 

[Vaino]

My first build was finished w/ BLO and it went deer hunting in the rain and the finish became a sticky mess. Used my red hankie periodically to wipe the goo off.

BLO takes forever to harden, if in fact it ever does and it's the poorest finish that can be rubbed on a stock.

With so many better finishes, why even bother w/ BLO? But, whatever a person's choice is....go w/ it...Fred