Loading blocks 2 redux

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TANSTAAFL

Cannon
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Although there was a another thread on the historical use of loading blocks, did not wish to hijack it.

WHEN I saw the pic of the Swan Museum loading block, made my rectangular slab ones appear rather bland.

Having some scrap maple on hand, decided to wood butcher out a couple. If others use loading blocks, lets see some of yours.

Pics from L to R are for .45, .54 & .62

LBpic.jpg
 
been wanting to make myself some loading blocks but havent found the time yet. the ones you have made are real cool. i like the horse head one. why don't you make up a bunch of them and sell them. good job. mudd turtle :v
 
Yeah, I second that motion! I'd certainly buy a .45 and .50 from you without a blink. If they're not too painstaking to make, you could sure have a sweet little operation and make a lot of buckskinners happy! Keep it in mind
 
Yes, you over drill the hole slightly to take patch and ball, so you can center over barrel an start it down the bore.


They're lots nicer than mine. I made one from some old "unknown" wood from a shipping crate. I was in a hurry and just wanted to see how easy it might be.

Looks O.K. Sealed with wax/oil and it looks like dark maple, maybe?

I'll post a pic when I can (no digital camera)...

Legion
 
Aww c##p! I thought I was happy with my rectangular loading block. Now I have to get up, go downstairs to my bench and start whittling out a new one...the mrs. ain't gonna like me obsessing about this, either...
 
Talk about obsessed! I saw one, wanted one like it, made about 15 of em, gave some away to friends, came up with another style (self centering) drew it up layed it out drilled 'em sanded 'em, waxed 'em, hung 'em on neat leather lacing...the saga continues. all in .50, 3 shot and 5 shot recessed.
put one out as a prize blanket item and it went early!
almost as much fun making em as it is to shot the BP guns.

Ima likin the horse pattern! mind if'n I make a few like it???



Brett
 
Marc & Mudd Turle.

Might give consideration to making and selling sometime in the future. But think Claud has a good rule against selling items on the forum.
 
"Ima likin the horse pattern! mind if'n I make a few like it???"


No problem on my part, have at it.
 
Could be... as it looked originally, it was plain blondish "wood". But as soon as the oil/wax stated soaking in, its grain came right out. :grin:

It's a shame if their ruining good timber to make pallets and shipping crates..... :cursing: :shake:

Legion
 
Mine are of a more utilitarian nature.

IM000565a.jpg


The maple three-holer is attached to my horn strap. It slides in a keeper so it doesn't dangle and tangle. The seven-holer is a Track of the Wolf maple block with one hole added. The canoe shaped walnut five-holer is worn like a gorget on the chest. The other five-holer (my favorite) is purpleheart and rides in a sheath on the back of my pouch. The little maple stub-starter is whittled from one piece and is the only short-starter I carry. If I stretch too long between wipings it does come in handy. The cherry ten-holer was a gift from Jackson Valley Phil and I haven't tried it yet, but it does fit in that sheath on the pouch.

I do like TANSTAAFL's horse block. Not a bad idea to mimic a patchbox silhouette. :hatsoff:
 
Excuse me for butting in , but I try to make mine about as thick as the ball is high that way there is a little room for some lube to stay on the patch without rubbing on everything the block comes in contact with . just my 2cents
 
I've had great success with drilling the backside first with a 1" forstner bit going about 1/8" then drill out for ball/patch.
This will self center over the barrel. works great on the 15/16 octo.
My friends love this idea.
FYI

Brett
 
Good idea on the relief put into the block. Myself, I insure the ball protrudes past the back side a bit, it is then very easy to locate the muzzle and ball is automatically centered.

On keeping the patch from rubbing off lube, I used to make blocks thicker, but realized was unnecessary. I found if left in the block for a bit, the patch naturally dries out, so I just occasionally relube in place. Also, the actual bore/patch contact area is a very narrow band, so that portion of patch being rubbed remains unaffected in the block.
 
Like Mudd Turtle and Marc said....I'll ake a .54 and a .50.

Where do I find the dimensions for holes, I did a search and culdn't find it. I know it was here not too long ago.
 


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