Several youtube videos I watched say to pour the powder, seat a lubed wad then seat the bullet. If the lubed wad goes down the barrel after the bullet how does the bullet get lubed? Seem like the lubed wad should be loaded after the bullet in order to lube the bore prior to the bullet going down the barrel. So, what is the proper procedure?
:Loading cap and ball cylinder?
- Thread starter rgswaim
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Exactly as it says. The lubed wad isn't to lube the bore before the bullet goes down it. Rather it
1) Seals the powder charge under the bullet to aid in prevention of chain fires (I think)
2) lubes the bore as the power charge is firing to help lessen fouling.
1) Seals the powder charge under the bullet to aid in prevention of chain fires (I think)
2) lubes the bore as the power charge is firing to help lessen fouling.
Nothing to do with chain fires, which come from the cap end of the cylinder, assuming that a properly oversized ball has been rammed, cutting a thin ring of lead, and sealing the chamber from any flash from the front. To my knowledge, lubed wads were not used during the Civil War.
Their purpose in the revolver is to soften the fouling, so it is more readily pushed out by the succeeding ball.
Their purpose in the revolver is to soften the fouling, so it is more readily pushed out by the succeeding ball.
You mentioned "down the barrel" so I'll start from scratch.
You load into the cylinder, there is a open area for this. First pour in the powder charge. Until recently this was always done directly from a flask. The flask ought to have a measure on it. Put the tip of your finger over the end, turn the flask upside down and open the valve and pour a charge into the measure. Release the valve and then pour the charge into the chamber.
UPDATE: today a lot of safety conscious people take one more step, they first pour the charge into a separate measure and then pour that into the chamber. On a long barreled rifle with a lot of fouling there is the chance a live ember remains in the bore, there ARE documented accounts of people pouring from a flask down the bore of a LONG RIFLE and having the charge ignite which then goes up the bore and blows up the flask- often fingers are blown away. I have asked a million times if anyone has any evidence this has happened on a cap and ball revolver- still waiting for some documentation- all I get is more of the long rifle incidents. So....do what ever is comfortable for you on a cap and ball and always use a separate measure on a long rifle or even a single shot pistol.
Next, seat a lubed wad over the powder.
Then seat a ROUND Ball over the wad. There must be NO AIRSPACE between ball and wad, ram the ball all the way down on the wad. Lots of folks can sense the powder slightly crunching as this is done.
That chamber is now finished- repeat for the other chambers.
Put a cap on every loaded chamber. Flash heat will go down an uncapped nipple on a loaded chamber and explode that chamber. The caps should fit tightly and not fall off from recoil. If the caps don't fit the easiest solution is to buy a new set of nipples.
Now...this procedure works but you are going to get confused because there are other things some folks do as far as lubing the ends of the chambers, using a filler, etc. For now, just do it as I've pointed out and worry about all the nuances after you've done some shooting.
I'd buy two screw drivers and very slowly hollow grind the thickness and then grind the width so they exactly match the slots on the screws. NO WOBBLE of the screw driver in the slot. Then lightly polish the edges of the screw driver. Grind one for each type of screw (large, small) Two is usually what are needed. Don't use these screw drivers on any other item- only the revolver. You will never have any chewed up screw slots on the revolver- I have one that's over 40 years old and still looks like new.
After a shooting session I completely strip down my revolvers and wash them in hot soapy water to keep them corrosion free. The first time you do this write down where everything goes- after a few times you'll be able to do it in a minute of two. I have a pizza pan I use to set all the parts in while cleaning.
Ask questions if you have any confusion on anything.
Before each shooting session swab out the bore with rubbing alcohol- the oil will turn into a brown tar that can be hard to clean and snap a cap on each nipple to burn off any oil in those areas- then start the loading procedure.
You load into the cylinder, there is a open area for this. First pour in the powder charge. Until recently this was always done directly from a flask. The flask ought to have a measure on it. Put the tip of your finger over the end, turn the flask upside down and open the valve and pour a charge into the measure. Release the valve and then pour the charge into the chamber.
UPDATE: today a lot of safety conscious people take one more step, they first pour the charge into a separate measure and then pour that into the chamber. On a long barreled rifle with a lot of fouling there is the chance a live ember remains in the bore, there ARE documented accounts of people pouring from a flask down the bore of a LONG RIFLE and having the charge ignite which then goes up the bore and blows up the flask- often fingers are blown away. I have asked a million times if anyone has any evidence this has happened on a cap and ball revolver- still waiting for some documentation- all I get is more of the long rifle incidents. So....do what ever is comfortable for you on a cap and ball and always use a separate measure on a long rifle or even a single shot pistol.
Next, seat a lubed wad over the powder.
Then seat a ROUND Ball over the wad. There must be NO AIRSPACE between ball and wad, ram the ball all the way down on the wad. Lots of folks can sense the powder slightly crunching as this is done.
That chamber is now finished- repeat for the other chambers.
Put a cap on every loaded chamber. Flash heat will go down an uncapped nipple on a loaded chamber and explode that chamber. The caps should fit tightly and not fall off from recoil. If the caps don't fit the easiest solution is to buy a new set of nipples.
Now...this procedure works but you are going to get confused because there are other things some folks do as far as lubing the ends of the chambers, using a filler, etc. For now, just do it as I've pointed out and worry about all the nuances after you've done some shooting.
I'd buy two screw drivers and very slowly hollow grind the thickness and then grind the width so they exactly match the slots on the screws. NO WOBBLE of the screw driver in the slot. Then lightly polish the edges of the screw driver. Grind one for each type of screw (large, small) Two is usually what are needed. Don't use these screw drivers on any other item- only the revolver. You will never have any chewed up screw slots on the revolver- I have one that's over 40 years old and still looks like new.
After a shooting session I completely strip down my revolvers and wash them in hot soapy water to keep them corrosion free. The first time you do this write down where everything goes- after a few times you'll be able to do it in a minute of two. I have a pizza pan I use to set all the parts in while cleaning.
Ask questions if you have any confusion on anything.
Before each shooting session swab out the bore with rubbing alcohol- the oil will turn into a brown tar that can be hard to clean and snap a cap on each nipple to burn off any oil in those areas- then start the loading procedure.
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Good job Crocket I agree!
One trick I will add that is not absolutely necessary but helps is to anoint the bore with patch lube after clearing the oil out with alcohol.
This gives the first ball up bore something to ride on other than clean barrel steel.Greasing the skids so to speak.
Instead of oil I have been using Gunzilla for the last two years and the film it leaves in the bore had the same effect as anointing with a lube patch before the first shot.
I have noticed this in my cartridge rifles shooting lead bullets. Lots less bore leading.
One trick I will add that is not absolutely necessary but helps is to anoint the bore with patch lube after clearing the oil out with alcohol.
This gives the first ball up bore something to ride on other than clean barrel steel.Greasing the skids so to speak.
Instead of oil I have been using Gunzilla for the last two years and the film it leaves in the bore had the same effect as anointing with a lube patch before the first shot.
I have noticed this in my cartridge rifles shooting lead bullets. Lots less bore leading.
Glen, I use those lubed wads in my revolvers and get much less powder fouling with them v. no wads at all. How do they lube the bore? Just a guess, but I think the pressure of the [fired] powder charge compresses the wad itself, extruding lube into the bore as a consequence. :idunno:
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It kinda atomizes into that hot plasma of boiling salt peter.
What sizes are yall punching out for .44's?
Reckon I'll try 7/16" for the .41.
A dollop of cornmeal with a lube ball beneath the bullet is another technique to check out. You just never know which way is gonna be best in your piece until you try.
What sizes are yall punching out for .44's?
Reckon I'll try 7/16" for the .41.
A dollop of cornmeal with a lube ball beneath the bullet is another technique to check out. You just never know which way is gonna be best in your piece until you try.
GoodCheer said:
.480 for me.
The only chain fire I have personally observed very definately came from the front of the cylinder. And, I have heard and read of plenty more. Cap end can cause them also but I believe major danger is from front end not sealed with grease or wads.
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swathdiver said:
Got a split end on a 45-70 case last night. Might just trim that baby back and sharpen her up. Could drill out the primer pocket to push the wads back out. Or, reckon I could just try the 1/2" gasket punch.
I don't think a 1/2" wad would take kindly to being forced into a .448 or .450 chamber.
That blown .45-70 should work alright once you open it up some while sharpening.
That blown .45-70 should work alright once you open it up some while sharpening.
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I'm thinking the 1/2" depends upon the wad material.
Thick hard felt could be a problem but a thinner lube impregnated material can conform nicely. The spongy pressed paper wads are easy to load into smaller bores, like a 7/16" into a forty bore rifle. Thick canvas, denim and corduroy (and the leather) are others on the list to try out now that the spongy pressed paper supply is gone.
For the .41 revolver the bullets are flat based and need the wad to be pretty close to chamber diameter so the 7/16" or a cutter made from the 45-70 is probably the way to go. For a round ball the wads will conform to the curve of the ball and be somewhat more forgiving.
Any how, more fun stuff to play with!
Thick hard felt could be a problem but a thinner lube impregnated material can conform nicely. The spongy pressed paper wads are easy to load into smaller bores, like a 7/16" into a forty bore rifle. Thick canvas, denim and corduroy (and the leather) are others on the list to try out now that the spongy pressed paper supply is gone.
For the .41 revolver the bullets are flat based and need the wad to be pretty close to chamber diameter so the 7/16" or a cutter made from the 45-70 is probably the way to go. For a round ball the wads will conform to the curve of the ball and be somewhat more forgiving.
Any how, more fun stuff to play with!
