I have a 44 cal euroarms brisia new army revolver. I have not shot it yet and would like some advice. I am going to use the pre-formed pydroex powder pellets 30 gr. I have .451 lead round balls, and #11 percussion caps. I also have wonder wads by traditions. From what I have read, you put the powder pellet in first followded by a wad next the ball and some have said to top off the cylinder with bore butter or some ytype of grease. My revolver has a steel frame so I think all of the above is correct. Please advise.
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Patocazador
54 Cal.
Wish I could help but Pyrodex and pellets are both an anathema to me. :td: You may experience ignition problems. If so, switch to black powder. Maybe you can sell those pellets to an inline shooter.
Before using the wads, shoot a couple of cylinders loaded with just the pellets and take note of how deep the top of the ball is after it is rammed down against the pellet.
I haven't shot any of those pellets so I don't know the answer but, if the top of the ball is closer to the face of the cylinder than the thickness of the wad, you won't be able to use wads.
IMO, this is no great loss but many people think the wads help with accuracy.
While your using your pellets, take note: Is there a "starting powder charge" on both ends?
Some of these pellets have a "starting powder charge" only on one end.
If that is the case with yours, that starting powder end must be inserted first so it is close to the nipple and percussion cap.
I should also mention that using loose powder, be it real black, Pyrodex or 777 has the advantage of being less expensive than any of the pellets I've seen on the market.
Loose powder also lets the shooter adjust the powder load easily to get the best accuracy. Often, the best accuracy is below the maximum charge.
As for greasing the chamber mouth after loading, I and many others think it helps to keep the fouling in the barrel soft. That can help to keep the soft lead balls from leading up the rifling grooves.
Some say it seals off the chamber/ball so the chances of more than one chamber firing at the same time is less. I suppose it does seal off the joint but most chain-fires are caused by a percussion cap falling off of a nipple because it was too loose.
I don't have to tell you to have fun.
As soon as you've shot a few rounds, you'll be hooked. :grin:
I haven't shot any of those pellets so I don't know the answer but, if the top of the ball is closer to the face of the cylinder than the thickness of the wad, you won't be able to use wads.
IMO, this is no great loss but many people think the wads help with accuracy.
While your using your pellets, take note: Is there a "starting powder charge" on both ends?
Some of these pellets have a "starting powder charge" only on one end.
If that is the case with yours, that starting powder end must be inserted first so it is close to the nipple and percussion cap.
I should also mention that using loose powder, be it real black, Pyrodex or 777 has the advantage of being less expensive than any of the pellets I've seen on the market.
Loose powder also lets the shooter adjust the powder load easily to get the best accuracy. Often, the best accuracy is below the maximum charge.
As for greasing the chamber mouth after loading, I and many others think it helps to keep the fouling in the barrel soft. That can help to keep the soft lead balls from leading up the rifling grooves.
Some say it seals off the chamber/ball so the chances of more than one chamber firing at the same time is less. I suppose it does seal off the joint but most chain-fires are caused by a percussion cap falling off of a nipple because it was too loose.
I don't have to tell you to have fun.
As soon as you've shot a few rounds, you'll be hooked. :grin:
I have never used a powder pellet. But you do have the right sequence: powder, wad, ball, and for the ball I would prefer a .454 as it will shave a bigger lead ring and makes me feel more comfortable I have a proper seal.
As the nipple is directly in line with the powder and there are no curves or corners to go around with a revolver I suspect you shouldn't have too much troubles with misfire.
Now if it were my pistol....
I'd get some loose powder, either fake or real black and ditch the pellets. Think of this...what if the best load for that particular pistol is 22 grains of powder, or 26? How are you going to do any load development with a pellet?
As the nipple is directly in line with the powder and there are no curves or corners to go around with a revolver I suspect you shouldn't have too much troubles with misfire.
Now if it were my pistol....
I'd get some loose powder, either fake or real black and ditch the pellets. Think of this...what if the best load for that particular pistol is 22 grains of powder, or 26? How are you going to do any load development with a pellet?
AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
Save the pellets, and get some 3F powder, whether black or Pyrodex, 23 grains as measured by volume and not weight, will give you impressive accuracy.
That load works best for me in everything .44 cal from 1858 Remingtons, to a variety of Colts, including Dragoon, and also ROA.
That load works best for me in everything .44 cal from 1858 Remingtons, to a variety of Colts, including Dragoon, and also ROA.
Want pellets you should just stick with the suppositories type guns
Well, that was about as friendly as a kick in the butt.
Here, a new member makes his first post and rather than answer the question, the answer is that? To use a modern style gun?
In case folks haven't noticed, some gun stores don't carry loose black powder or even the synthetics in loose form. Sometimes, they only carry modern stuff like powder pellets.
I'm sure after bekuhl37 has been here a while (assuming he comes back) he'll figure out the pellets aren't the best way to go.
Here, a new member makes his first post and rather than answer the question, the answer is that? To use a modern style gun?
In case folks haven't noticed, some gun stores don't carry loose black powder or even the synthetics in loose form. Sometimes, they only carry modern stuff like powder pellets.
I'm sure after bekuhl37 has been here a while (assuming he comes back) he'll figure out the pellets aren't the best way to go.
rodwha
58 Cal.
The only thing good about a pellet is that they are uniform. If that happens to be what's quite accurate for you than I guess it's good if you don't mind spending that kind of money on it, which is why I'm not interested.
30 grns of 3F has been the more accurate charge using either Olde Eynsford or Triple 7 in my Pietta Remington '58, and 35 grns in my ROA with the same powder. This is with both my 170 and 195 grn conicals, and only testing in 5 grn increments from 25-35 in the Remington, and 25-40 in the Ruger.
30 grns of 3F has been the more accurate charge using either Olde Eynsford or Triple 7 in my Pietta Remington '58, and 35 grns in my ROA with the same powder. This is with both my 170 and 195 grn conicals, and only testing in 5 grn increments from 25-35 in the Remington, and 25-40 in the Ruger.
I have never shot Pyro Pellets your load will be on the stout side but it should be fine in your steel frame revolver. If you can find some wads try them. You can find wool felt weather stripping at the hardware store. you can cut wads from a spent 45 case and some olive oil will work for lube. Also try shooting some naked just a pellet and a ball as well as putting a little crisco over loaded balls. See what works for you and your gun.
to all that answered my question I say thanks. Even for the not so friendly responses. I want to use this revolver for deer hunting. In Missouri we have an alternative hunting method season. That includes Black Powder revolvers. I choose the pellets as my first, and easier propellant to get started. I was taught to go easy and build up to the real stuff. That's why I started with root beer.Again thanks for the reply's.
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rodwha
58 Cal.
You'll want to focus on using 3F Swiss, Goex Olde Eynsford, or Triple 7 as the other powders will give woeful power in comparison, though I'm sure someone has been successful using standard BP or Pyrodex.
http://poconoshooting.com/blackpowderballistics.html
http://poconoshooting.com/blackpowderballistics.html
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rodwha
58 Cal.
Because paper is dead already. Seriously?
I don't understand why you equate everything with cap n ball pistols with target shooting. Hunting and paper punching are very different things, and unless you were shooting for the eye your loads likely wouldn't give a clean kill, and there's the ethics of shooting for the head, especially with a pistol.
Relax man.
I don't understand why you equate everything with cap n ball pistols with target shooting. Hunting and paper punching are very different things, and unless you were shooting for the eye your loads likely wouldn't give a clean kill, and there's the ethics of shooting for the head, especially with a pistol.
Relax man.
rodwha
58 Cal.
And yes, woeful in comparison.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP_dwo2nThA
You'll note that Mr. Beliveau's testing with the ROA shows the 40 grn 3F standard Goex powder with a ball produced 812 fps with 217 ft/lbs, whereas his REDUCED load with minor compression of T7, 33 grns, produced 1062 fps and 371 ft/lbs.
If that's not a tremendous difference I'm not sure what is Richard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP_dwo2nThA
You'll note that Mr. Beliveau's testing with the ROA shows the 40 grn 3F standard Goex powder with a ball produced 812 fps with 217 ft/lbs, whereas his REDUCED load with minor compression of T7, 33 grns, produced 1062 fps and 371 ft/lbs.
If that's not a tremendous difference I'm not sure what is Richard.
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rodwha
58 Cal.
T7 doesn't state it needs to be reduced 15% for safety, but to achieve similar results as standard BP, though as you see it still produces almost twice the energy.
And the mild compression stated by Hodgdon is for loading cartridges and not other types of firearms. It states to compress firmly in comparison.
With these two things in mind it shows that T7 could really outpace your standard Goex Richard.
These are the facts.
I could only imagine what your reduced target load of Goex would produce if 40 grns only produced a mere 217 ft/lbs, which many would likely say is an inhumane hunting load. Right? Or do you want to argue that more too?
And the mild compression stated by Hodgdon is for loading cartridges and not other types of firearms. It states to compress firmly in comparison.
With these two things in mind it shows that T7 could really outpace your standard Goex Richard.
These are the facts.
I could only imagine what your reduced target load of Goex would produce if 40 grns only produced a mere 217 ft/lbs, which many would likely say is an inhumane hunting load. Right? Or do you want to argue that more too?
rodwha
58 Cal.
Were we talking a rifle or maybe even a Walker I'd say Goex, or any of the other woefully underpowered powders might be acceptable, but he mentioned an 1858, and with a powder capacity of about 40 grns with a ball there's just no way I'd suggest doing such.
Oh, and I'm just not a skilled shooter. I do well to keep my useful loads in the black at 15 yds offhand. I'd get smoked by the unborn if I went to one of those shoots. But I might do rather well at a cowboy shoot or a shoot in which only hitting the gong gets you a prize.
Oh, and I'm just not a skilled shooter. I do well to keep my useful loads in the black at 15 yds offhand. I'd get smoked by the unborn if I went to one of those shoots. But I might do rather well at a cowboy shoot or a shoot in which only hitting the gong gets you a prize.
rodwha
58 Cal.
You've often invited me to your shoots to see. How about you bring your best pistol with your most accurate charge, the one you get all of the awards and trophies and such, and come on a Texas hog hunt where you walk around?
Something tells me you'd load it up quite a bit, and possibly leave the ball in place of a conical”¦
I'd not go hog hunt with a 15-20 grn charge of standard Goex and a ball no matter how accurate it is. I'm guessing you might get about 100 ft/lbs and maybe 2" of penetration as long as you didn't hit bone.
Something tells me you'd load it up quite a bit, and possibly leave the ball in place of a conical”¦
I'd not go hog hunt with a 15-20 grn charge of standard Goex and a ball no matter how accurate it is. I'm guessing you might get about 100 ft/lbs and maybe 2" of penetration as long as you didn't hit bone.
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Ummmm, Ok.... :surrender:
rodwha
58 Cal.
:thumbsup:
AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
rodwha said:
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