Lock and Flints Help

[B1gthndr]

Hey y'all,

I got a Kibler Colonial 54cal. that I am working on and I was wondering if it is normal to get chips, dents, and scuffs on the frizzen. My first couple of shots with the provided flint worked very well. I got some new flints and now I'm lucky if I get a spark ever third strike and I started noticing a lot more dents and scuffs. I figured this was simply because of my ignorance and that I was using a flint that was too big. Ordered smaller than the recommended size, ground out the dents in the frizzen to keep the flint from sticking on the notches, and I am still getting dents and no sparks. Anyone got any idea?

Colin

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Hey y'all,

I got a Kibler Colonial 54cal. that I am working on and I was wondering if it is normal to get chips, dents, and scuffs on the frizzen. My first couple of shots with the provided flint worked very well. I got some new flints and now I'm lucky if I get a spark ever third strike and I started noticing a lot more dents and scuffs. I figured this was simply because of my ignorance and that I was using a flint that was too big. Ordered smaller than the recommended size, ground out the dents in the frizzen to keep the flint from sticking on the notches, and I am still getting dents and no sparks. Anyone got any idea?

Colin

A spark is actually shaved metal off the frizzen. You will always have some scuffs. Too many or no spark is another issue. If you have any doubts, call Jim. He is good people.
Larry

 

[TDM]

Some photos of your lock and flint would be a very big help. Also a photo of the frizzen face. You must be careful trying to smooth out the frizzen face surface, your best hardened metal only goes so deep. And as @Larry (Omaha) said, call Kibler and discuss it with them before changing anything else.

Larry types a lot faster than me.

 

[#BPBReloadingFFL]

Why would you grind on the frizzen face?!
Don't ever never grind on anything until you figure out what the problem is.

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

I have .50 cal. Lyman and T/C. I took the hammers off both. heated with Mapp gas and bent the hammers to a more shallow angle. best thing I could ever do to improve ignition with of course the proper flint. To those in the same position do not be afraid to try it. Both guns function 100% better with the change. I know many dont want to think of taking the chance..but consider the hammer is not hardened anyhow. So aside from coloration or looks you will have a better shooter. The problem was never the frizzen but the angle. I also reworked the frizzen spring for just enough resistance.

 

[James Kibler]

Our frizzens are usually very consistent sparkers. If your flints are sharp (knap if not) and the frizzen is clean, you should get a shower of sparks. If not, something is wrong. If something doesn't seem right, just send the lock back. We'll check everthing out and replace or fix anything that isn't as it should be at no charge.

Jim

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

Our frizzens are usually very consistent sparkers. If your flints are sharp (knap if not) and the frizzen is clean, you should get a shower of sparks. If not, something is wrong. If something doesn't seem right, just send the lock back. We'll check everthing out and replace or fix anything that isn't as it should be at no charge.

Jim

Jim this is what makes you a cut above the rest! Respect!

 

[Grenadier1758]

Our frizzens are usually very consistent sparkers. If your flints are sharp (knap if not) and the frizzen is clean, you should get a shower of sparks. If not, something is wrong. If something doesn't seem right, just send the lock back. We'll check everthing out and replace or fix anything that isn't as it should be at no charge.

Jim

Customer service can't get any better that that.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Hey y'all,

I got a Kibler Colonial 54cal. that I am working on and I was wondering if it is normal to get chips, dents, and scuffs on the frizzen. My first couple of shots with the provided flint worked very well. I got some new flints and now I'm lucky if I get a spark ever third strike and I started noticing a lot more dents and scuffs. I figured this was simply because of my ignorance and that I was using a flint that was too big. Ordered smaller than the recommended size, ground out the dents in the frizzen to keep the flint from sticking on the notches, and I am still getting dents and no sparks. Anyone got any idea?

Colin

I hope you didn't get those saw cut agate flints. They will tear your frizzen up faster than a duck on a june bug. Next is a poor quality flint, then a dull flint. Semper Fi.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Jim this is what makes you a cut above the rest! Respect!

If I were still at the beginning or middle of this game I would add a Kibler rifle, or two, to my kit.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I hope you didn't get those saw cut agate flints. They will tear your frizzen up faster than a duck on a june bug.

OK, duel on the island at sun rise. I have used sawn agate, and other stones, for half a century. No appreciable wear on frizzen. And, they lasted longer than the Energizer bunny. In fact, worrying about them getting dull and not sparking was never on my mind. Even before a competition or hunt. Mine were from Gunter Stifter in Germany. The only downside these days is cost and figuring out how to use his garbled up German/English web site.

 

[B1gthndr]

Our frizzens are usually very consistent sparkers. If your flints are sharp (knap if not) and the frizzen is clean, you should get a shower of sparks. If not, something is wrong. If something doesn't seem right, just send the lock back. We'll check everthing out and replace or fix anything that isn't as it should be at no charge.

Jim

I appreciate that, but my lock was absolutely awesome until I used up the flint you sent. I tried a new flint and now it won't spark and it is getting deep grooves in the metal. I'm afraid it's my own durn fault and not your product. I will post some pictures tomorrow and get some more advice from y'all. This is my first flintlock and I can't really afford a new lock on it because I'm a college student (a pretty dumb college student). So, I'm hoping I didn't jack it up too bad. I'm pretty sure it's just the Frizzen that is messed up. @Mr. Kibler, If I did send it back, could you try to fix it for me? I don't know how much you charge for something like that but I'm sure I could afford that over a new one!

Best,
Colin

 

[IanH]

Sometimes a video helps.

 

[TDM]

I appreciate that, but my lock was absolutely awesome until I used up the flint you sent. I tried a new flint and now it won't spark and it is getting deep grooves in the metal. I'm afraid it's my own durn fault and not your product. I will post some pictures tomorrow and get some more advice from y'all. This is my first flintlock and I can't really afford a new lock on it because I'm a college student (a pretty dumb college student). So, I'm hoping I didn't jack it up too bad. I'm pretty sure it's just the Frizzen that is messed up. @Mr. Kibler, If I did send it back, could you try to fix it for me? I don't know how much you charge for something like that but I'm sure I could afford that over a new one!

Best,
Colin

Contact Kibler as Jim said and they’ll get you fixed up.

 

[IanH]

I have .50 cal. Lyman and T/C. I took the hammers off both. heated with Mapp gas and bent the hammers to a more shallow angle. best thing I could ever do to improve ignition with of course the proper flint. To those in the same position do not be afraid to try it. Both guns function 100% better with the change. I know many dont want to think of taking the chance..but consider the hammer is not hardened anyhow. So aside from coloration or looks you will have a better shooter. The problem was never the frizzen but the angle. I also reworked the frizzen spring for just enough resistance.

Many locks are poorly designed, poorly fitted, poorly heat-treated, or just poorly put together and can benefit greatly from some rework. Kibler's locks rival the best ever made without any tuning. All you need to know to make a Kibler lock work is what size flint to use, how to mount it properly, and how to maintain its edge.

 

[TDM]

While I agree that Kibler locks are the best out of the box locks at the current time, they can all be made better with proper polishing. I’ve worked with 6 different Kibler locks, they were all good, but had varying degrees of tumbler and plate finish. After polishing they all were noticeably smoother and faster.

 

[MRW]

I guess I am lucky I have a lock I gave $5.00 for on a rifle made from accumulated and handmade parts that amounts to less than $50.00 and all I use for flints is Missouri chert that grows free in my yard and I've never had any major ignition problems. Last time I had it at a shoot I know I had at least 20-25 shots in a row without a misfire.

 

[EC121]

Try shimming the back of the flint up a little to lower the cutting edge. This will reduce the strike angle and prevent some of the gouging. All frizzens get scratched, but a deep strike line can be minimzed.

 

[M. De Land]

Sometimes a video helps.

Looks like the frizzen is bouncing off the flint arch and reengaging periodically in the stroke.

 

[hanshi]

If "dents" and grooves" are bad on the frizzen face it can be that the flint is mounted and smashes into the frizzen instead of slicing down like a guy whittling down a piece of wood.