Lock Binding

[BigSkyRambler]

I have a problem with a lock. Not so much the lock, an older Davis, but probably the inletting. Rifle is an older build and while the lock works fine out of gun, it won't when installed. Once in the lock mortice the set trigger does not engage and even half and full cock won't hold. So, what's the rub?

 

[wiscoaster]

... So, what's the rub?

Yup, that's it.

Might be the trigger plate is too deep and the trigger bar is contacting the sear. Try removing the trigger assembly to see if the set trigger works with it out of the gun, and then reinstalling just the lock to see if half and full cock work without the trigger.

 

[French Colonial]

I have a problem with a lock. Not so much the lock, an older Davis, but probably the inletting. Rifle is an older build and while the lock works fine out of gun, it won't when installed. Once in the lock mortice the set trigger does not engage and even half and full cock won't hold. So, what's the rub?

Get a little Prussian blue or the wife's lipstick and put it on the sear tumbler etc. assemble and then remove the lock, it should show you where it is rubbing.

 

[BigSkyRambler]

Yup, that's it.

Might be the trigger plate is too deep and the trigger bar is contacting the sear. Try removing the trigger assembly to see if the set trigger works with it out of the gun, and then reinstalling just the lock to see if half and full cock work without the trigger.

I have established that lock works without triggers. Should I take some more metal off sear?

 

[SOLANCO]

Maybe a shim under the trigger plate?

 

[BigSkyRambler]

Maybe a shim under the trigger plate?

Might try that. Here is a photo of trigger bar. Does that look high? (In 3...2...1).

 

[SOLANCO]

I think so, but I am no expert.

 

[wiscoaster]

Maybe a shim under the trigger plate?

That's what I was going to suggest, too, at least as a trouble-shooting measure.

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

Try the "lipstick" first, and remember it is easier to remove wood than metal.

For me, it has always been just a wee bit of wood that gets in the way.

 

[wiscoaster]

Try the "lipstick" first, and remember it is easier to remove wood than metal.

For me, it has always been just a wee bit of wood that gets in the way.

Ya, I wouldn't start filing on the sear unless and until you're 100% sure that's the problem.

 

[2 shots]

that sear bar would be better rounded than flat.

 

[BigSkyRambler]

that sear bar would be better rounded than flat.

That's how it came. Older build. Unfired and now I know why.

 

[Mgbruch]

Do Not take any more metal off the sear! With the hack job on that sear, I'd replace it before doing anything else. And if the trigger plate is inletted flush with the stock don't mess with that either. If the triggers aren't giving clearance to the sear, then the triggers are what will need attention. Nothing else. Not the trigger plate. Not the butt plate. Not the dinner plate.

Don't over think it, or make it more complicated than it actually is. If you mess with things that aren't the problem, you'll only succeed in creating an additional problem. Which is what someone has done already.

I'd replace the sear first.

Next, I would make sure that all the parts of the lock and trigger assemblies move freely like they're supossed to when on the gun. So you need to test the lock without the triggers in, and visa versa.

Then I would take the triggers apart, and adjust each one separately, filing off enough of the trigger bar to give just a tad of clearance when the sear is at it's lowest position. The sear should hold the same location at half and full cock... but that might not be the case.

 

[Mgbruch]

In addition. That squared off end of the sear spring tells met that the lock has not had proper attention given to the internal parts. Something you can do while waiting for a replacement sear.

 

[BigSkyRambler]

In addition. That squared off end of the sear spring tells met that the lock has not had proper attention given to the internal parts. Something you can do while waiting for a replacement sear.

Lock seems to work fine, out of rifle. Clicks smoothly into half and full cock. Releases without issue.

 

[deerstalkert]

smooth up that sear arm and polish it.
take a couple swipes with a file off top of the set trigger blade. set trigger and note if the forward trigger blade is higher than the set trigger blade. keep them even as you SLOWLY reduce the blade heights.
check for function.
repeat as needed.

 

[Mgbruch]

Test the lock while it's in the gun, while the triggers are out. You can trip the sear with a screwdriver. Then take the lock out, put the triggers in, and test them. If there's no wood interference, then I'd move on to the trigger bars. Don't be in a hurry. Take some time to figure it out.

So... does the lock work fine? Or does it work quite well? There's a big difference when actually firing the gun. Just because a lock "works" doesn't mean it works well. You'll want (or I would want) a light single trigger pull. And well tuned internals equal a fast lock time.

 

[TDM]

Agree with @deerstalkert 's proceedure. And as said already, do not remove any more from the sear except to round off the bottom, where the sear contacts the trigger blade. Polish these areas as best you can once you have it functioning properly.

 

[IanH]

I know ya'll are trying to help, but if only those who really understood how double-set triggers operated would post, this would be a lot less confusing.

The answer is the mainspring for the hammer trigger is following through too much.

For God's sakes quit filing on the sear bar and the trigger arms. You should be able to tell by the angle they cross through the sear bar hole that the trigger plate is NOT set too high.

 

[BigSkyRambler]

I know ya'll are trying to help, but if only those who really understood how double-set triggers operated would post, this would be a lot less confusing.

The answer is the mainspring for the hammer trigger is following through too much.

For God's sakes quit filing on the sear bar and the trigger arms. You should be able to tell by the angle they cross through the sear bar hole that the trigger plate is NOT set too high.

How do you reduce mainspring follow through? This is getting well outside my wheelhouse.