Lock browning

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aragorn

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How were locks finished on original longrifles? I've noticed that many builders today brown their locks, which is obviously good to reduce glare for hunting, but how common was this in the past? Were locks more often filed and polished (as with military locks), and then left to develop their own patina with use and age?
The main building books I've been using have plenty on lock tuning, etc, but little on lock finishing.
 
This is a subject of much discussion and I'll try to give a summary or consensus, which would apply to locks, barrels, trigger plates, etc. In general, browning or bluing are protective finishes and were not done to "hide the shine". That's gun writer myth spun in the 1950's and 1960's. Shine was considered good especially for the military. Spit and polish, look impressive, glint in the sunlight like polished steel ready to kill.

One problem in answering the question is that especially on American arms before 1800, there is often little original finish. A gun finished bright might look browned now, etc.

Most original lockplates were case-hardened, which we only see on factory guns today, more's the pity. Then any additional finish was applied if "case-hardening colors" was not the desired look.

Most folks agree that before about 1760 or 1770, iron on guns was generally finished "bright" with some barrels being "fire blued". Browning as a finish first appears in advertisements around 1770 or so. However, the finish applied to the barrel may not always match that on the lock.

Many builders choose to brown locks nowadays because they get a good acceptable finish with very little work. Current locks require 4-10 hours of hand work to polish to a bright finish without rounding over edges, dishing plates, etc. because they are cast and have surface pits. It must have been much more laborious when locks were forged, and there is evidence this work was farmed out to child labor in Europe. Most customers would not want to pay a decent wage for that type of work.

In the last 10-15 years many makers have also been turning to "patina" finishes, that simulate an aged appearance. Locks and barrels etc do not have a uniform color or smoothness and look like a well-used gun.
 
Thanks very much for this, Rich - very interesting.

I'm finishing my Siler by polishing with emery cloth (150 grit), then crocus, always using a wood backing for the paper (I find different sized dowels work well for the curved areas), being careful to keep the original edges. I like the slightly pitted and marred effect because it gives it a hand-forged look, so I'm not polishing it to get a perfect finish. But it still does take time!

You make a very interesting point about the manufacturing process. In England I recently bought a lovely flint pocket pistol by Dunderdale and Mabson, who operated in Birmingham from 1799 to 1803 (some time I'll post a picture of it). I did some research on the maker and even visited the Proof House museum in Birmingham, where they said the same thing - it was a cottage industry and one man, or often a man and his sons, might specialise in lock polishing. This was done in a rabbit warren of shops in the gunmaking district in Birmingham, or in towns in the 'Black Country' where forging was done.

It surprises me how little focus there has been on lock finishing and decoration on the forum (recently, anyway!), as to me it makes such a difference to the appearance of a gun. Maybe as you say the issue is the considerable extra time involved to polish, and the ease of browning.

I'd love to see some close-up pictures of locks people have finished other than by browning.
 
Strider,

I agree with Rich. I do not brown the earlier styled guns. I really enjoy getting the to arsenal bright and getting the to a gray patina for field use. This requires a lot more work, but is worth the effort.

Dowels are a bit thin for serious sanding. You can rasp or router a shape into a handier sized and shaped piece of wood for that purpose. ranger tape or tacks can secure the paper to the form.

Most kits include a test strip of the wood. After testing, this can be used for holding detail sand paper and then made into knife scales.

CS
 
How do you get the lock to the grey patina? Is it just a matter of polishing it and then leaving it unoiled so oxygen can get at it?
 
Gray finish on metal can be done using Birchwood Casey Perm Blue GREATELY rubbed back to almost nothing. Steel wool will sometimes not be enough to do it, Imperial auto paper will do it-1000 grit. I useliquid perma blue as the paste seems to have a funny color to me. Good Luck
 
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