Lock inletting

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flashpanner

45 Cal.
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Hey is it common for the cock to have to be relieved into the stock along the top side? Anyone have some finished pictures of this area? I want to ask first before cutting out.
Details: Siler large lock.
Bivins GAC precarve stock from TOTW
Thanks
 
Hi Dick,

Yes, you will need to cut a groove into the stock for the cock or hammer to have enough clearance to work. When I do this I put the lock with the cock installed into the inlet as far as it will go and then work the cock from fired position to full cock and back. This leave a sort of scribed line to establish where you will need to remove wood. I continue to work the cock and remove wood until the lock is fully seated in it's mortice and the lock bolster is against the barrel. THe groove you are going to end up with is not a straight groove, but will be tapered and curved and widest at the point nearest to the lock plate.

Randy Hedden
 
To minimize the size and depth of this groove, I apply spotting compound on the cock at rest and keep pressing the lock home until no blue is visible. Then do the same thing at full cock and remove all the wood in between the 2 cock postions. Usually when the cock is further back from the fully cocked position, the cock is out of the groove and doen't cause any interference....Fred
 
I do the same as Randy, as the cock is inlet and moved each time, you get a roadmap of sorts, easy to remove only the wood you need.
 
Probably 49 dif ways of doing this, this is just one of them. I get the lock plate inlet first & pan/barrel fit good, then add the tumbler & bridle, then add the hammer. Then put the hammer on & put a lil inletting black in the back side where it will rub, put the hammer down, put the lock in the inlet to where the hammer is rubbing the wood & then hold it snug & cock to full cock & this marks the wood. Remove lock cut out mark with a rounded carving tool, repeat til I get it to where it doesn't make a rub mark anymore. Top photo shows the hammer is just barely rubbing & I need to take just a tad more wood out.

Dcp_4995.jpg


Dcp_4992.jpg
 
Whew! thanks for the responses. Thought it was better to ask first then cut than do things in the reverse order. Hard to put cut wood back onto the stock and not show the boo-boo!
 
i rounded my stock on top a little more to match the off side and don't have any hammer groove....it's just a straight line from the pan area to the back of the lock mortise....the hammer clears the stock with no rubbing :v .........bob

lockinlet002.jpg
 
No, actually you just turn the rifle over if you want to shoot it right handed ! :grin:
 

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