Lock Panal Shaping

[Zonie]

Most (if not all) of the pre carved stocks leave an ample amount of wood on the panal where the lock will be inletted.
This is good for those who want to use different locks to obtain different styles.

I have a question about this area though.

What method/tools do you use when cutting this panal down to the shape you desire?

I have had no real difficulty in creating the shape and cutting it in, but the guns I really admire usually have a generous radius which blends the remaining panals edge or beavertail into the main body/wrist of the stock.
I have yet to figure out a good way to form this radius.

IMO a dremel is out of the question because this is too delicate of a task and the slightest slip would do immeasurable damage.
Trying a dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it hasn't worked well either.

Any ideas or secrets you would like to share?? :: ::

 

[ibson]

Zonie,
My main tool to shape panels is a nicholson patternmakers rasp. I assume a "generous radius" is another term for lock and sideplate panel moldings? These done like a relief carving. Pencil in an outline around your panels 1/8" or less. Use an exacto knife to cut the outline then go in with a 1/4" chisel and relieve the wood. After that I either scrape it or sand it with a lady's fingernail file to smooth it out. Ditch the dremmel.
Hope this is what you were referring to.

 

[GobblerKnob]

I second the comment about the Dremmel. While they have their place, helping to create a longrifle isn't one of them. :imo: There isn't anything a Dremmel can do that a good sharp chisel, file, and a little patience can't. ::
Even on pre-carves, I have had to reconstruct the lock and sideplate panels due to removal of wood in bringing these areas to near final profile.
I draw the molding, then take an 1/8" carving chisel to create the shoulder of the panel. After that is done, I then go back with a file and/or sandpaper to smooth it out. Doing this is very much like creating relief carving, but on a much larger scale. :results:
Hope this helps.
Rick

 

If you wish to get the same results that the old masters got use scrapers. Scrapers were their primary forming tool fron the time they put down the hatchet until the gun left the shop.

Most of the origionals show scraping to be their final finish before stain was applied with scraper marks still evident even on best grade guns!

We finish our guns WAY TOO GOOD compared to the origionals.

We get bent out of shape looking for perfect architecture to duplicate the masters, and then use finish tools and techniques they would have thought rediculious!

 

[LSU TIGER]

I use a gouge, sweep depending upon the curve of the panel. Try a round rasp, and don't be afraid to plane down a piece of ramrod for a sanding block.

 

I use scrapers as well. If you buy a cheep set of those little screwdrivers you see allot at the dollar store they can be made into great little scrappers to get into those tight places.
As to the dremmel, I only use it in deep places or when polishing metal, never ever on carving or inletting

 

[Zonie]

Thanks for the answers.
To set the record straight, a Dremel is the last thing I would let get even close to the stock when it is at this stage.
IMO allowing a power tool to get close to the wood at this stage is Instant disaster just waiting to happen.

I did try something new though and it's working pretty good.
I have a number of round files which are made for sharpening chain saws.
Several of these are very well made (Swiss and Finnish) fine tooth double cut files.

As it is only going to cut wood, I heated one of the files and bent it into a U shape and rehardened it.
I feared the teeth would become dull from the high temperatures but that did not happen.

The lower part of the U is easy to control so the resulting cut blends into the shape of the panal rather easily.

I will try the Screw driver scrapers idea as soon as I can find some cheap screw drivers.

Thanks again.