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Lock Replacement

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Wayne Combs

40 Cal.
Joined
May 23, 2004
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Hey y'all. On my Reading style flintlock I built back in '72,I used a Russ Hamm P.Gonter style lock.After all the years of use the cock has loosened up to where it doesn't stop at the top of the lock plate anymore,the edge of the flint stops down inside the flash pan.I was wondering if one of the Chambers locks or an L&R lock could be used as a replacement with a little inletting work.I figure it would be cheaper to buy a new lock than to have that old Hamm reworked.Thanks for the help.Wayne.
 
I don't know exactly what the shape and size of your lock is so my best suggestion is for you to invest in a Track of the Wolf catalog.
The neat thing about this catalog is it has photos of the actual lock (internal and external) and THEY ARE ALL FULL SIZE.

If you had the catalog, you could lay your lock on the photo and see if it was the same or slightly larger than your lock.
You could also see if the sear release arm and the pan was in about the same place.

Assuming you could find a new lock which met these requiements, you could update your lock for just a little over $100.

The only other choice is to hope someone on the Forum has a lock just like yours and has replaced it with a new lock.

That assumes they had exactly the same model etc as yours so I think I would try the TOW catalog method.
 
I don't know a whole lot about this, but couldn't you just built the lock plate back up some by brazing or welding or maybe liquid steel even, and then file it down like it was before? May not be feasible, i don't know. Just a thought.
 
If a good TIG or MIG welder was available it could be welded up but it would also require remachineing to bore the hole out without changing it's location.
This would take a machinest who really knows what he's doing because if the location is not correct, the tumbler/sear and tumbler/bridle won't align properly.

None of the other methods of repair (braze/solder/plastic steel etc.) can take the extreme stress and friction imposed by the mainspring at the tumbler axle/lockplate interface.

After paying the welder and the machinest it would probably be cheaper to just get a new lock.
 
Tip Curtis at the Frontier Gun Shop could tell you off the top of his head what would fit(if any). A phone call to him would be all it takes to find out. Onliest problem right now is that he will be at Friendship for the next 2 weeks....setting up his display and selling there. Looks like you are close to there....why not take the rifle and lock over and ask him? Track will of course have a booth there....betcha between the 2 of them they can fix u right up.
 
I,d like to thank everyone who replied to my post,really good ideas that I intend to use.Thanks again,Wayne.
 
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