Longer flints; Or inserting flints farther out?

[Numlok]

So I have a T/C Hawken. Super fun rifle. But it takes a 5/8" Flint, and every 5/8" Flint I've found is only 3/4" long (Or 5/8"x5/8", but that's even worse.). My issue is that with 5/8"x3/4" flints, there is a HUGE gap between the frizzen and flint at half-****. At least 1/4". My research has led me to believe that you want essentially as small of a gap as possible at half-****, without it actually touching. Which seems to be accurate, as a larger gap seems to lead to issues.

The way I've been getting rid of that gap is to place a thick piece of leather between the flint and the **** screw. Seems to work well enough, and barring any other solutions, I don't mind continuing to use this. But my worry is that the softness of the leather is robbing me of some performance, since some folks will go so far as to cut a slit in the leather pad so the rear of the flint has a more direct connection with the **** screw. I'm assuming this is so they have a firmer backing for the flint to rest against to get maximum force against the frizzen.

So, is there anywhere I can find 5/8"x1" flints? Or would I have to take up flint-knapping as a hobby to get my hands on them? Failing that, is there any issue with having a gap between the rear of the flint and the **** screw? If not, I feel like I could get more life out of my flints after they're shortened from wear and knapping, but I guess I've been conditioned to believe that the rear of the flint should have something to rest against. But if a gap is acceptable, being able to eliminate my leather shim would be a lot less of a hassle.


I've thought about upgrading to the L&R lock since this is my "primary" rifle, but I'm not sure if I want to drop $255 on a problem that doesn't really exist. It fires very reliably when I shim the flint up with thick leather, so I guess "If it works, it works" might be the rule to live by.

 

[TDM]

Sounds like you’ve got the situation well in hand. As long as your getting consistent ignition I’d stick with what your doing now.

 

[SDSmlf]

So I have a T/C Hawken. Super fun rifle. But it takes a 5/8" Flint, and every 5/8" Flint I've found is only 3/4" long (Or 5/8"x5/8", but that's even worse.). My issue is that with 5/8"x3/4" flints, there is a HUGE gap between the frizzen and flint at half-****. At least 1/4". My research has led me to believe that you want essentially as small of a gap as possible at half-****, without it actually touching. Which seems to be accurate, as a larger gap seems to lead to issues.

The way I've been getting rid of that gap is to place a thick piece of leather between the flint and the **** screw. Seems to work well enough, and barring any other solutions, I don't mind continuing to use this. But my worry is that the softness of the leather is robbing me of some performance, since some folks will go so far as to cut a slit in the leather pad so the rear of the flint has a more direct connection with the **** screw. I'm assuming this is so they have a firmer backing for the flint to rest against to get maximum force against the frizzen.

So, is there anywhere I can find 5/8"x1" flints? Or would I have to take up flint-knapping as a hobby to get my hands on them? Failing that, is there any issue with having a gap between the rear of the flint and the **** screw? If not, I feel like I could get more life out of my flints after they're shortened from wear and knapping, but I guess I've been conditioned to believe that the rear of the flint should have something to rest against. But if a gap is acceptable, being able to eliminate my leather shim would be a lot less of a hassle.


I've thought about upgrading to the L&R lock since this is my "primary" rifle, but I'm not sure if I want to drop $255 on a problem that doesn't really exist. It fires very reliably when I shim the flint up with thick leather, so I guess "If it works, it works" might be the rule to live by.

You could try placing a matchstick, heavy toothpick, twig or combination of any of them behind either the flint or piece of leather to push the flint forward. Remember, you are dealing with pieces of rock and will likely find no two the same. Not that difficult to shim them forward a bit to get them where you want them. Definitely easier than positioning ones that are two long without giving the flint a bit of a haircut….. though a haircut may be necessary with the next batch of flints if you find them too long. It all comes down to what works or doesn’t work in your lock, with or without ‘adjustment’.

 

[PastorB]

My main flintlock is supposed to use a 3/4" x 3/4" flint. I really was not impressed with the performance, so I just use a 1 inch square flint nowadays, which works great. For range shooting, which is 99% of all my shooting, I will double up the leather, and even put sticks (wooden matchsticks work great) behind my flint to make it project farther out after several knappings. Get a lot of shots that way, and never have had an issue with ignition. For hunting, I use a new, sharp flint.

 

[Gtrubicon]

I just pounded a couple of round balls flat and shaped them to fit my lock. I will replace the leather with flat lead. I have one already in the lock with flint installed. When it’s done storming here I’m gonna try it out. The lead seems to have a much firmer grip on the flint than the leather.

 

[SDSmlf]

I just pounded a couple of round balls flat and shaped them to fit my lock. I will replace the leather with flat lead. I have one already in the lock with flint installed. When it’s done storming here I’m gonna try it out. The lead seems to have a much firmer grip on the flint than the leather.

Forget who at the moment, but believe certain lock manufacturers will void their warranty if you use lead to hold the flint in place. Comes down to the extra mass (weight) on the **** along with the lack of shock absorption compared to leather holding the flint causing damage.

I have tried the lead on ‘sporting size’ locks (not the larger military locks like those found on a Bess for example) and found no performance improvement, while having to tighten things up after a few shots. Believe it just a matter of finding the ‘correct’ leather for your particular lock and avoiding hump type flints.

 

[morehops52]

I've read the same about not using lead as to no cushioning. I believe the cutting a notch in the leather is to get a too long flint to sit further back.

 

[Dave Marsh]

I believe that Chambers locks warranty is voided if you use lead.

 

[Rifleman1776]

The way I've been getting rid of that gap is to place a thick piece of leather between the flint and the **** screw

Sounds like you have solved yer own problem. Flintlocking requires trying various clever adjustments and a large vocabulary of naughty words. Stick with it.

 

[Numlok]

Sounds like you’ve got the situation well in hand. As long as your getting consistent ignition I’d stick with what your doing now.

But that's too simple! I have to needlessly complicate things!

But yeah, you're probably right. It does tend to go bang every time I pull the trigger, until my flint gets too worn and that gap rears it's ugly head again. I think I might even experiment with more shimming to get more life out of a flint next time I get to the range. I guess at the end of the day, it's not rocket science. It's a rock hitting metal and making a spark. That leaves quite a bit of room for experimentation and messing around.

 

[Numlok]

Sounds like you have solved yer own problem. Flintlocking requires trying various clever adjustments and a large vocabulary of naughty words. Stick with it.

Oh, I've been getting very proficient with the naughty words

Makes sense, though. The more I think about it, the more I realize it's just a piece of rock hitting some metal and making a spark. It's not nuclear fission, and that means there's a lot of room for experimentation and "field expedient solutions".

 

[deerstalkert]

Oh, I've been getting very proficient with the naughty words

Makes sense, though. The more I think about it, the more I realize it's just a piece of rock hitting some metal and making a spark. It's not nuclear fission, and that means there's a lot of room for experimentation and "field expedient solutions".

word of caution, it is best to refrain from those naughty words when within hearing range of the missus. hate the taste of ivory bar soap, and hate sleeping on the sofa.
if you get a shot on a TC with each trigger pull do not, repeat, do not change whatever you are doing.

 

[Numlok]

word of caution, it is best to refrain from those naughty words when within hearing range of the missus. hate the taste of ivory bar soap, and hate sleeping on the sofa.
if you get a shot on a TC with each trigger pull do not, repeat, do not change whatever you are doing.

Luckily for me, I'm a bit between missus's right now. Haven't tasted a bar of soap in quite a while

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I just pounded a couple of round balls flat and shaped them to fit my lock. I will replace the leather with flat lead. I have one already in the lock with flint installed. When it’s done storming here I’m gonna try it out. The lead seems to have a much firmer grip on the flint than the leather.

Good luck on the lead. I tried lead on my Brown Bess and after a few shots the flint got loose. The lead was compressing with usage. Don't get me wrong as a flint will sometimes need to be snugged using leather. Lead was a joke for ME.
Larry