Look what i got!!

[Ed C.]

Yeah tomorrow I'm lookin for ticking at .15 to .18 and my gun will do great I think. Making bore butter tomorrow with beeswax and olive oil. Tonight taught me not everything in the stores is better. I'm super excited to work it all out. That's half the fun!

That is what I use on the wads for my revolvers. 1:1 'cause I'm in Florida. It works great on my revolvers but trying those wads in the Hawken was a disaster. Balls stuck halfway down....stuck jags. Then I tried just wiping a patch on a 1:7 mixture....no good for me. Best results so far have been with Olde Turkey Track solvent (From Taylors) damp patch or a 1:5 ballistol/water mix with a touch of dawn soap damp patch. But everyone gets different results. Follow your own path based on reasonable suggestions and yes, that is half (or more) of the fun!

 

[Ballshooter]

The real question is how tight is too tight.

I like mine just snug in others words you should be able to push a patch and ball in with your thumb, then use the ramrod.

 

[TDM]

Yeah tomorrow I'm lookin for ticking at .15 to .18 and my gun will do great I think. Making bore butter tomorrow with beeswax and olive oil. Tonight taught me not everything in the stores is better. I'm super excited to work it all out. That's half the fun!

Agree with @Ed C., I read through your recipe too quickly before. I suggest using beeswax and Crisco shortening. Heat and mix 50/50. Add about 10% olive oil of the total mix. Let it cool and see how you like the consistency. You can reheat add more of each to get the feel you want. For a store bought lube Mink oil is very good.

 

[Ballshooter]

Flintlocks are addictive have fun and enjoy your new rifle.

 

[kyron4]

Yeah I removed it only one wedge and one screw. It looks great next time I clean it I'll try to get a pic with a phone light on the bore!

You don't need to remove the screw on the tang, just remove the wedge and tip the barrel up and out of the stock, don't forget to remove the ramrod first. The hooked breach barrel ws quite an innovation for the time back when barrels were pinned to the stock.

Forget the 2F, stick with 3F , it work better in flintlocks with patent breach and you'll get a better burn rate out of that 24" barrel.

 

[Brokennock]

Yeah tomorrow I'm lookin for ticking at .15 to .18 and my gun will do great I think. Making bore butter tomorrow with beeswax and olive oil. Tonight taught me not everything in the stores is better. I'm super excited to work it all out. That's half the fun!

Don't just look for "ticking," pocket drill is of very tight weave and very tough.... just be sure it is 100% cotton, linen, or even hemp. No synthetic.

 

[Thingamajiggy]

Goodluck with your new obsession! My sons is a real shooter with 3F, you'll have to see what yours like but I think you'll be happy with it. The only problem I see is that you started the ball rolling, gonna be hard to stop, LOL. (Speaking from experience).

 

[MSW]

Just be sure they are 100% cotton. Synthetic materials tend to melt and leave a mess.

that's for true (don't ask me how i know ... ) also, you might want to drop some coin on the late Dutch Schoultz' method ... here's a link...

https://blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/
this deal will shrink your groups.

best of luck with your new rifle

 

[longcruise]

@nwpahunter415

Don't just look for "ticking," pocket drill is of very tight weave and very tough.... just be sure it is 100% cotton, linen, or even hemp. No synthetic.

This on the pocket drill. JoAnnes fabric sells under the name "#40 drill". Wash it in hot water with soap twice and dry it with the dryer on a hot setting. This gets rid of any sizing and the hot dryer shrinks it and tightens the weave. It will be all frayed up on the edges just cut the edges off. Do this with any cotton patch material that is new off the bolt. If you tear off strips that are equal to the circumfrence of the ball you are all set to cut at the muzzle or cut off squares equal to the width.

 

[mmb617]

I have the exact same model rifle purchased a year and a half ago.

I have as of today fired 1,349 rounds through it with very little trouble. I thought I'd mention what has worked for me.

I've always used the prelubed .015 ticking patches I get from October Country with a .490 lead ball.

October Country Lubed Daisy Ticking Patches

I load with 3f and prime with 4f.

I normally shoot 20-24 rounds per range session and do not swab at all between shots. I do however wipe the frizzen face and flint with an alcohol pad after each shot. I also pick the touch hole before each shot.

I always clean by removing the barrel and plugging the touchhole with a toothpick, then fill the barrel with water and let it sit while I clean the lock. After I dump that water I run water down the barrel till it runs clear out the touch hole which isn't long at all. I always remove the liner before this step so the water can flush out better.

Everybody has their own procedures they swear by and I can't say mine's better than someone else's. I'm throwing it out there for informational purposes simply because we both have the same gun.

 

[Brokennock]

I thought I'd mention what has worked for me.

I've always used the prelubed .015 ticking patches

I am really not trying to bust your chops. Really I'm not.
But this is the type of statement I warned the o.p. of earlier and have warned against in the past.
Can you please define "what has worked for me....." in a more quantifiable manner?
Maybe your needs are different?
Does it mean patches are not torn or burnt through? Does it mean 4 inch goups at 50 yards or 100 yards? Or better? Or does it mean minute of pie-plate at 25 or 50 yards? Minute of 10 inch steel gong at 50 yards or 100? (Which also doesn’t tell us where in that 10 inches youre hitting or how consistently your hitting that spot on the gong)
I really don't mean to insult you, it's just a clarification question.

I do however wipe the frizzen face and flint with an alcohol pad after each shot. I also pick the touch hole before each shot.

This, is very good advice. I would include to wipe the pan too. It can make a big difference in reliability.

 

[SDSmlf]

I've always used the prelubed .015 ticking patches I get from October Country with a .490 lead ball.

The pre-lubes patches work great until they don’t. I personally have seen folks chase unexplained accuracy problems that ultimately came came down to pre-lubed patches breaking down. It happens.

I have no idea what the actual shelf life of a pre-lubed patch is, but it has one. Unfortunately, they have no manufactured or use by date on them, and the user won’t know until after an investigation of a problem.

Manufacturers make them and shooters buy them, but pre-lubed patches in my opinion and experience are an easy to avoid waiting happen problem.

 

[sheriff john]

Great posts/advice/encouragement from everyone! I like your rifle choice for a practical, all weather, reliable, carry all day hunting piece. Have Fun!

Old range officer advice - Beg, borrow, or otherwise obtain a pair of good quality SHOOTING GLASSES before you pull the trigger again and USE THEM. Our beloved sidelocks (flinters especially) are infamous for eye injuries. One chip of flint, chunk o' cap, or even a wind-blown bit of powder will ruin everything (possibly for the rest of your life). Same thing for anyone with you.

Lost part of my hearing long ago from shooting mostly, but hearing crickets 24/7 ain't the same thing as losing even part of an eye. Seen it happen, don't want to see it happen to you.

 

[nwpahunter415]

Well everyone gonna be a couple days got new patchs ordered getting them from October country so I know what I'm getting! Hope everyone stays tuned new videos of the range coming soon! Video of me making bore butter coming soon also.

 

[mmb617]

I am really not trying to bust your chops. Really I'm not.
But this is the type of statement I warned the o.p. of earlier and have warned against in the past.
Can you please define "what has worked for me....." in a more quantifiable manner?
Maybe your needs are different?
Does it mean patches are not torn or burnt through? Does it mean 4 inch goups at 50 yards or 100 yards? Or better? Or does it mean minute of pie-plate at 25 or 50 yards? Minute of 10 inch steel gong at 50 yards or 100? (Which also doesn’t tell us where in that 10 inches youre hitting or how consistently your hitting that spot on the gong)
I really don't mean to insult you, it's just a clarification question.

This, is very good advice. I would include to wipe the pan too. It can make a big difference in reliability.

I apologize for mentioning something that goes against the traditionalist thinking prevalent on this forum.

All I wanted to do is mention what I've used for over a thousand shots with the exact same rifle that the OP has. When I say works for me I meant meets my expectations, doesn't mean it would meet someone else's that might be more stringent. With this being the first flintlock for the OP I'd be surprised if his expectations aren't closer to mine than to someone who's been shooting these (or most likely much higher end) guns for many years. We all start somewhere.

What I mean by works for me is that the gun will fire almost every time. That reliability would be even better if I didn't run my flints till I have a misfire before I knap or change it. I only shoot paper but if I were hunting I'd start with a fresh or at least a freshly knapped flint and I'd bet on near 100% fire rate.

On those occasions when I've recovered my patches they are neither torn nor burned through.

I do all my shooting offhand at either 25 or 50 yds and don't kid myself about my marksmanship. I'm older and have trouble keeping a steady aim. Eyes aren't great either. I can't say what someone who is a good shot could do from a rest at those or longer distances.

I've only been shooting flintlocks for a year and a half so I don't know squat about it compared to most members here, and I only wanted to relate what I do. I'm certainly not saying it's the best way for anyone else, but I do think there's also a mindset in long time shooters that what they do is right and anything else is wrong. We all get set in our ways.

I hope my remarks don't offend anyone as that is not my intention. I think that new shooters might have different perspectives sometimes and since I'm one of them I like to give mine.

It's all good. I hope.

 

[WALT53]

Well everyone gonna be a couple days got new patchs ordered getting them from October country so I know what I'm getting! Hope everyone stays tuned new videos of the range coming soon! Video of me making bore butter coming soon also.

For your patch and ball problem your having it sounds like you need a BALL starter in your bag.good luck. Walt

 

[Brokennock]

I apologize for mentioning something that goes against the traditionalist thinking prevalent on this forum.

All I wanted to do is mention what I've used for over a thousand shots with the exact same rifle that the OP has. When I say works for me I meant meets my expectations, doesn't mean it would meet someone else's that might be more stringent. With this being the first flintlock for the OP I'd be surprised if his expectations aren't closer to mine than to someone who's been shooting these (or most likely much higher end) guns for many years. We all start somewhere.

What I mean by works for me is that the gun will fire almost every time. That reliability would be even better if I didn't run my flints till I have a misfire before I knap or change it. I only shoot paper but if I were hunting I'd start with a fresh or at least a freshly knapped flint and I'd bet on near 100% fire rate.

On those occasions when I've recovered my patches they are neither torn nor burned through.

I do all my shooting offhand at either 25 or 50 yds and don't kid myself about my marksmanship. I'm older and have trouble keeping a steady aim. Eyes aren't great either. I can't say what someone who is a good shot could do from a rest at those or longer distances.

I've only been shooting flintlocks for a year and a half so I don't know squat about it compared to most members here, and I only wanted to relate what I do. I'm certainly not saying it's the best way for anyone else, but I do think there's also a mindset in long time shooters that what they do is right and anything else is wrong. We all get set in our ways.

I hope my remarks don't offend anyone as that is not my intention. I think that new shooters might have different perspectives sometimes and since I'm one of them I like to give mine.

It's all good. I hope.

No apologies needed man.
No "offense" taken.
I just think it is good to give some parameters as to what results one is getting when recommending something.

You have a good point about shooting a flint until it stops being useful effecting reliability percentages. I'm guilty of the same thing.

 

[nwpahunter415]

just made another order Track of the Wolf are getting rich from this backwoods kid update on the range really soon I also am going to my first muzzaloader club shoot. Thanks for all the advice and help in my interests. You guys are respectable men! Noone has passion for the things that brought this country together like we do.

 

[kyron4]

View attachment 201052just made another order Track of the Wolf are getting rich from this backwoods kid update on the range really soon I also am going to my first muzzaloader club shoot. Thanks for all the advice and help in my interests. You guys are respectable men! Noone has passion for the things that brought this country together like we do.

The Mink oil is probably the best cold weather patch lube out there, along with bear grease. I shot in -10*F this December and it held up perfectly, no real change in accuracy.

 

[TDM]

I really like my homemade lube but Track’s mink oil is just hard to beat. I use it the majority of the time.