Looking for a little advice

[Clay Hayes]

Hey folks, first post here. Need some advice on fixing a tab that’s popped off the barrel of my Fowler (2nd pic). This is the last tab towards the muzzle that holds the stock and barrel together.

On another note, I traded for this thing close to 20 years ago and don’t know much about the make, barrel, lock, etc. if anyone can ID the components from the photos I’d appreciate it.

 

[poker]

Thats a nice looking fowler Clay. Id solder that sight on like it was originally done. Silver solder would be the strongest.

 

[Traviss]

I agree. Clean it up and solder it back.
Just out of curiosity did it break when you were driving out the pin or did you notice a problem and pull the barrel? I wouldn’t think there would be very much stress there with the breech and the front lug on either side of it.

 

[64Springer]

Keep in mind that that the hole on the tenon, after resoldering, will not perfectly line up with the existing hole running through the stock.

A little reaming will be order. And possibly a slightly larger pin.

If you try to drive a pin in there without reaming it may hit the tenon and really bugger things up.


P.S. The lock nose has what appears to be a stamp. Take a look with a magnifying glass. See what it says. The lock looks like a Chambers Colonial/Virgina. With the sear spring screw hiding behind the bridle. Be careful taking out those screws. There is a sequence to it so some of the screws don't get buggered up threads.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Hey folks, first post here. Need some advice on fixing a tab that’s popped off the barrel of my Fowler (2nd pic). This is the last tab towards the muzzle that holds the stock and barrel together.

On another note, I traded for this thing close to 20 years ago and don’t know much about the make, barrel, lock, etc. if anyone can ID the components from the photos I’d appreciate

Since I do not know your skill level forgive me if I tell you something you already know. The tennon (Tab ) will be in good alignment for elevation but real tricky for the correct clock time on the radius. (as mentioned by Springer) Make sure you do some pre precise measuring prior to barrel clean up. Once the barrel and tennon are cleaned up (back to bare metal) and degreased, use new solder and flux. Silver solder is the best as also said. I would not try to use the solder that is currently on the barrel and tennon.
Larry

 

[Felix the Cat]

To be honest, I would be tempted to epoxy it back on, particularly if you are not confident or equipped to hard solder it. You will also have to re-finish the barrel after heating to hard solder temperatures if you take that route..!

Degrease the tenon and the barrel. tape up the inside of the stock so it will not catch and fit the tenon back into the stock. Apply the epoxy (not too much) to the tenon pad and then replace the barrel, binding it down.

If it all goes horribly wrong you can always remove the epoxy with a bit of heat. I know it is not a "traditional" fix, but if you are careful it should produce a serviceable repair and do nothing irreversible to your gun..

 

[Traviss]

To be honest, I would be tempted to epoxy it back on, particularly if you are not confident or equipped to hard solder it. You will also have to re-finish the barrel after heating to hard solder temperatures if you take that route..!

Degrease the tenon and the barrel. tape up the inside of the stock so it will not catch and fit the tenon back into the stock. Apply the epoxy (not too much) to the tenon pad and then replace the barrel, binding it down.

If it all goes horribly wrong you can always remove the epoxy with a bit of heat. I know it is not a "traditional" fix, but if you are careful it should produce a serviceable repair and do nothing irreversible to your gun..

This will be the easiest way. It’s not very traditional but there are guns with the sights JB Welded on that have been that way for years.
I’ve always been a bit leery of relying on epoxy for anything structural but it’s worth a try.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

To be honest, I would be tempted to epoxy it back on, particularly if you are not confident or equipped to hard solder it. You will also have to re-finish the barrel after heating to hard solder temperatures if you take that route..!

Degrease the tenon and the barrel. tape up the inside of the stock so it will not catch and fit the tenon back into the stock. Apply the epoxy (not too much) to the tenon pad and then replace the barrel, binding it down.

If it all goes horribly wrong you can always remove the epoxy with a bit of heat. I know it is not a "traditional" fix, but if you are careful it should produce a serviceable repair and do nothing irreversible to your gun..

That is a good procedure to make it fit, but personally I think the epoxy will fail. JMO
I do like the idea, but not the result.
Larry

 

[Rudyard]

Well its not a tenon its a loop and Ide trust the solder since its already tinned A bit of core solder positioned between the two while you heat up suffice to melt the solder aught to be enough unless you replace it cockeyed it should just settle on fine so the Key (Some call a wedge but it doesn't' wedge' but neither does it turn ) or pin aught to go in as it did . The rifle?, Fowler looks to be a good one Any makers name ?.
Regards Rudyard

 

[Campbell]

Hello Clay, Welcome from Texas!
I enjoyed all your 3 Rivers Archery content - very helpful. Enjoyed “Alone” also - congrats!

 

[Clay Hayes]

I just not

I agree. Clean it up and solder it back.
Just out of curiosity did it break when you were driving out the pin or did you notice a problem and pull the barrel? I wouldn’t think there would be very much stress there with the breech and the front lug on either side of it.

I just noticed it loose and pulled everything apart. Needed a good cleaning anyhow.

 

[Clay Hayes]

Well its not a tenon its a loop and Ide trust the solder since its already tinned A bit of core solder positioned between the two while you heat up suffice to melt the solder aught to be enough unless you replace it cockeyed it should just settle on fine so the Key (Some call a wedge but it doesn't' wedge' but neither does it turn ) or pin aught to go in as it did . The rifle?, Fowler looks to be a good one Any makers name ?.
Regards Rudyard

I’ve got no info at all on it unfortunately.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Solder is the best route but you do not need to use hard silver solder. Low temperature silver bearing solder such as Brownells Hi Force 44 or Staybright will do the job nicely using a propane torch. The secret is to clean the surfaces thoroughly before soldering. Your gun needs some TLC. I believe the gun is a Chambers Pennsylvania fowler kit. The lock is Chambers. It needs some TLC and better care.

dave

 

[user 58311]

I'm dealing with the same issue on my fowler. The way I'm going to do it is solder on new barrel lugs from Track and redrill the holes using the stock holes as a guide. Then slot the holes. That way you don't have to try and hit the existing holes. I personally think glues should be kept for wood. I only want to make the repair one time. Just my 2.

 

[Ed C.]

If you can set the tab back in its exact location, scribe mark the barrel, clean both pieces down to bare metal, flux it and use soft solder locating the tab within the scribe marks. Should be good to go, simple and secure.

 

[dracer]

welcome to the forum

 

[EC121]

I use Solder Paste for that sort of repair. It is a silver bearing paste with flux that is low temp. Comes in a plastic syringe. Smear the paste on there and clamp the pieces in place. Then heat it with a propane torch. When the solder melts remove the heat. I use one of those little butane torches for precise heat.

 

[Clay Hayes]

Got it fixed. Went ahead and soldered it back. Thanks for the info. Ch

 

[Ricochet]

Glad you got it fixed! Good job on that turkey, nothing like shooting one with a flintlock..........unless it's with one of them kick-butt self bows you build!

 

[Ole Bob]

Glad you got it fixed for turkey season. Great video too, congrats on the bird!

Thanks for passing along the Chambers turkey load article too.