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Looking to buy a used flintlock, how do I know if it will throw good sparks?

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Let me see if I can sum this up and please don't take offense as it is not intended. You're going to spend $1300 on a gun that is worth probably half that. No longer in production with a reputation that isn't too bad. If the lock doesn't spark well, you're willing to spend $150+ to have it tuned. You asked for input and got it and in the end, you're going to buy it despite the advice given. Your money so go for it. Not sure why you bothered to ask the question in the first place.

What makes you say it's only worth have? The ones that have sold here recently were both 1400+, the lowest I've ever seen for one is $650 which sold back in 2021. The type musket of I want is a 1766/1777 Charleville/1816 Springfield/Short Land Pattern. Should I go Rifle Shoppe kit and send it in to be built route?
 
Saw one awhile back go for 800$.
I'd not pay that 1299.99 Avg price yes 500-600$ tops.
Your worried about the spark yet how's the rest of the gun look?
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Love my Traditions!they get a bad rep for soft frizzens. I find it's the frizzen spring that's way to heavy. 3 to 4lbs to open the frizzen is about right. They usually come in at 7+ lbs and that's just way too much and the flint cuts into the frizzen and usually opens halfway because the frizzen spring is too strong.

Both of mine spark awesome. French amber flint!
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What do you mean by that?
Triggers are sometimes a pain in the arse because of inadequate spring tension or once so-called 'cocked'....will release with just the slightest move or bump because of problem with the sear adjustment. Sometimes the **** won't follow through and strike the frizzen but will stop at the half **** position. Can be a pain in the ***!!
 
Triggers are sometimes a pain in the arse because of inadequate spring tension or once so-called 'cocked'....will release with just the slightest move or bump because of problem with the sear adjustment. Sometimes the **** won't follow through and strike the frizzen but will stop at the half **** position. Can be a pain in the ***!!
Is this a common problem?
 
Yeah , you gotta try the lock ,maybe get a VDO of it sparking if outta town sale / buying ...if a good quality lock , Chambers or such , you just know its gonna spark well .... Darn , this pic just doesnt want to download ,in the stix ,maybe do it tomorrow ....love this pic !! Hey it worked !! 3rd try is the charm !! LOL
 

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Please keep it pointed in a safe direction! Unloaded guns kill!

Yes I know the 4 rules of gun safety:

Always treat all firearms as if their loaded.

Keep your finger off the trigger till you're ready to fire.

Know your target and what's behind it.

Never point a gun at anything you aren't willing to destroy.
 
Yeah , you gotta try the lock ,maybe get a VDO of it sparking if outta town sale / buying ...if a good quality lock , Chambers or such , you just know its gonna spark well .... Darn , this pic just doesnt want to download ,in the stix ,maybe do it tomorrow ....love this pic !! Hey it worked !! 3rd try is the charm !! LOL

There isn't any flint in the gun I've been looking at.
 
If I was buying an expensive (over $1000) 'limited addition' or "obsolete" model flintlock, my offer would be contingent on a three day inspection/return period (you pay the return shipping if unsatisfied.) That way, if it is not right, you are not stuck. If the seller is confident the gun is just as they describe, they should have not issue with it.

ADK Bigfoot
 
If I was buying an expensive (over $1000) 'limited addition' or "obsolete" model flintlock, my offer would be contingent on a three day inspection/return period (you pay the return shipping if unsatisfied.) That way, if it is not right, you are not stuck. If the seller is confident the gun is just as they describe, they should have not issue with it.

ADK Bigfoot

It's as is,
 
@1General_Grant, a lot would depend on who was the manufacturer of the lock and what was needed to be done to get the lock to spark.
If it was the Miroku lock mentioned in a previous post and repairs required more than rehardening the frizzen, be aware that the lock is long out of manufacture and spare parts for all practical purposes will have to be made by hand. Fixing could be easy or could be hard. I'm not to thrilled to see the touch hole at the bottom of the pan. A more optimal position is a bit higher so the priming powder would be just about up to the touch hole. Banked away it might work.

Are the only markings the name Charleville and the fleur de lie on the lock?

What is known about the maker?
 
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