Loose Hammer

[Bob J]

Shot my dad's Russ Hamm Allentown .50 Friday. The Hamm lock throws a good shower of sparks and ignition was quick. The cock has some play in it, however. It can be wiggled from side to side even though the screw is tight. Believe the Hamm locks just weren't as "tight" as modern L & Rs, Siler, etc. and believe that probably I should just leave well enough alone. It shoots great. What do you think?

 

[Runner]

Put it at full cock and move it side to side. If it discharges, it is not ok. Some of the modern locks have the same problem.

 

[Zonie]

After determining that it won't fire when the cock is wiggled, if you want to frinkel with it a little you might remove the screw and compare the end of the tumbler with the face of the cock. It should be below the face of the cock.
If it is, the problem might be that the screw is bottoming out in the hole before the screw head can push against the cock.

If this is happening, if you carefully shorten the screw threads, just a little, it will allow the screw to go further into the tumbler and tighten up against the cocks face.

If the end of the tumbler is flush with or stands proud of the face of the cock, it can be ground back, just a little until it is below the face of the cock.
This may allow the screw to tighten the cock up like it should be.

Yes, frinkel is one of my favorate words. Surprisingly it can be used in most mixed company and everyone seems to understand it without taking offense.
:results:

 

[CrackStock]

Actually, the screw is generally considered to be cosmetic rather than the true method of retention.

The screw might work for a bit, but might not. Ideally, the squared shaft of the tumbler should be large enough to hold firmly with a pressed fit.

This might also cause the cock to bind against the lock face.

Other possibilities:

You might be able to shim the wallowed or oversized space.

JB weld might be used to fill in some of the hole in the cock and then filed to shape for a snug fit.

I would look for replacement parts before I tried any fix except a shim.

You might remove the tumbler and tap the squared shaft to upset enough material to get a decent hold. I do not like this idea, but it is possible.

Just some thoughts.

CS

 

[riarcher]

'Taint broke? Don't fix it. :m2c:

 

[Bob J]

Thanks everyone. I'm not much of a "frinkler" (Frinkling has led to some screw-ups! Like the time I talked a gunbuilder into coning my old hawken with a big drill bit :shocking So since she shots well, will probably leave well enough alone for now. ::

 

[Blivetmaker]

I had the same problem with my Le Page Flintlock pistol.
The squared shaft on the tumbler had become slightly rounded/worn with time resulting in a slightly wiggly cock.
Sooner or later the tumbler will need replacing. As a short or medium term solution, a gunsmith or other professional frinkeler might be able to peen the material around the square hole in the cock, thus cinching the cutout down to a
tight fit. :results:

 

[dlemaster]

Generally the problem is in the hammer, if you cinch it down as mentioned in the previous post that will solve the problem. The only thing I would add is to caseharden the hammer with Kasnit to prevent or at least greatly slow down it loosening up again.
Hope this helps.

Regards, Dave

 

[kentucky bucky]

I saw Bill Brockway respond to the same question on a forum once before. He says that he preps the squared part of the tumbler to accept some of the hard type silver solder and dips it into some molten solder (plug the screw hole). The thickness of one good even coat is enough to take up the wiggle. I think he used it maily on old shotguns with loose hammers. He said that peening would not work for long. Sounds good to me! Just a thought.