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LOOSE RAMROD PIPE

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JOHN ZUREKI

36 Cal.
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I have a small little problem that needs a small little answer. I have a ramrod pipe that rocks in it's mortice when pinned. My usual method is to stick the ramrod thru the pipe, clamp then drill the pin hole. My inletting for the pipes is usally pretty tight,accept in this one case. NOW, I know I could plug the hole in the stock and redrill; the stock is finished. This is final assembly. I could drill for a second pin, the other pipes use only one pin and it would look too different. It is the front pipe so it should not be loosy goosey. It fit good before I finished this darn Fusil. Any ideas on how to snug this thing up that that are not to drastic?? :redface:
 
1: Take the pipe off & braze it up & redrill is the first option.

2: Glue in a flat shaving on each side of the pipe where it rocks & put the pin in the pipe & forget it.

3: Put a lil bit of wood glue mixed with some sawdust together, remove the pipe, put a little of the ? putty ya made in the hole on each side under the bottom, coat the pipe with some dark brown shoe polish as a release agent, press the pipe in carefully til the pin hole aligns, push the pin in & leave it set for 3-4 hrs.

4: Do same with some MicroBed under it.

5: Install a new RR pipe & redrill.

:thumbsup:
 
Thank you Wick and Birddog6 for the prompt replies. I was thinking that I just might bed the pipe in epoxy or MicroBed and forget about it.It just never fails, there is always something that goes awry. I never plan on removing these pipes anyway. I'll let my grand kids deal with it. Thanks again.
 
I have a trick I use that really get's them tight when building. I drill the hole for the pin(s) w/o the ramrod pipe in there. Then I place the RR pipe in place, put in a pointed pin, and mark where the hole should go. Then I center punch the tab about half a pin diameter "high" (toward the round body of the pipe) and drill it. Install that RR pipe ONCE using a pin that is well rounded at one end. When you drive the pin in, it pulls up very tight.
 
If you can avoid getting epoxy into a place where it physically locks the pipe in place (that is, so only the adhesive strength is used) you can easily get it out again when you need to. Just wax the pipe first, or just apply heat when you want to get it out. Epoxy gets weak at around 220 degrees, long before you scorch the wood.
 
WRussell said:
If you can avoid getting epoxy into a place where it physically locks the pipe in place (that is, so only the adhesive strength is used) you can easily get it out again when you need to. Just wax the pipe first, or just apply heat when you want to get it out. Epoxy gets weak at around 220 degrees, long before you scorch the wood.

Temp may be true for some off the shelf epoxy, but J.B. Weld is good for 600 degrees.
 
Assuming that this is not the tail pipe, I would remove it; turn it around; clamp it and then redrill it.

It is quite rarea to hit dead center.

CS
 
I would like to thank everyone for the ideas. I really did know that I was just going to lay a bed of epoxy under the pipe and repin it. I think I was just looking for someone who thinks as I do. I did redrill for a larger diameter pin, and that helped a little. Thanks again.
 
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