Lube addative: whaddya think??

[Adui]

I am considering modifying my lube recipe. I am currently using a mix of Beeswax and Peanut oil. Approximately 2 tablespoons beeswax and 6 tablespoons oil. I am wondering if it would be bad to add a detergent to it.
I considered adding a teaspoon of simple green to the mix, but am wondering if this is a bad idea so I wanted opinions. 1 tsp would be 1/25th of the total solution. What I may do is cut the solution in half and add 1/2 tsp to one part and leave the other then compare.

I generally prelube my patches and store them in a plastic baggy.

 

[necchi]

Just keep in mind stuff in lube is subjected too high temp.
Simple green was all the rage for cleaning a few years ago, then guy's figured if a little is good , alot is better. And a short time later fouling trouble was all the rage.

I say go ahead, experiment, you may discover something better than anything that's been used for the past 300yrs, :wink:

 

[bitehard]

Hi Adui. Try oil of wintergreen. It makes waxes, fats and oils water soluble. I think that when wiping out between shots that residue carbon comes out better on the damp rag. Flushing out at the end of the seems to be easier/ quicker? I would be glade to hear of others views on this habit of mine.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I agree with the experiment advice. We all do that. I can't count the number of lubes I have experimented with over the years. And, I am still fussing around with them.
However, my current patch lubes seem to be quite effective and I'm thinking I should stop searching. (but I know I won't)
OK, my currentl lubes, with ticking, are beeswax/whale oil and beeswax/peanut oil. But perform great.
So, why add 'stuff'? Only to experiment.
I suggest you don't add anything. But, I know you will.
I don't take my own advice on this subject. Why should you? :haha:

 

[Adui]

I don't take my own advice on this subject. Why should you? :haha:

:rotf:

Just couldn't resist! And probably true! I am trying to find that holy grail of lubes for me that will make the fouling all but non existent (I know, wont happen :idunno: but hey, I gotta try LOL)

 

[nkbj]

The better 2/3's said "Hey, do you want this?"
So now the latest batch has coconut as well as lanolin, beeswax and olive oil. After melting and mixing it got poured into a wide flat pan sitting on water for quick chill to prevent segregation of the components. Did that because there was a segregation of the beeswax in a batch when it was poured hot into a short wide can and the beeswax solidified more quickly on the outer perimeter, so that the center of the can had less wax and was softer.
So later I scraped that wide flat pan to pack in the lube bucket and could still feel areas with a little of differing hardness.

 

[Flash Pan Dan]

Adui, you might consider trying a little bit of Murphy's oil soap. I've had good success with it or even just simple Pine-Sol. As mentioned earlier there are a myriad of formulas but adding one of these two has worked well for me.

 

[David W.]

Try a little jojoba oil in the beeswax.

 

[Blackpowdersmoke]

OK, my current lubes, with ticking, are beeswax/whale oil and beeswax/peanut oil. But perform great.

Whale Oil???...Isn't that prohibited from being marketed in the U.S. or does that only pertain to Sperm Whale oil? Which, incidentally, is illegal to sell in the U.S. Are you talking about some kind of substitute?
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_102_502&products_id=2073

BPS

 

[Rifleman1776]

OK, my current lubes, with ticking, are beeswax/whale oil and beeswax/peanut oil. But perform great.

Whale Oil???...Isn't that prohibited from being marketed in the U.S. or does that only pertain to Sperm Whale oil? Which, incidentally, is illegal to sell in the U.S. Are you talking about some kind of substitute?
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_102_502&products_id=2073

BPS

No sub. Realy McCoy. It is from a pint can I bought from Brownell's decades ago when it was legal. The can was corroding from the outside and I had to do something with it. Since I had never figured out another use it went into this batch of lube. The beeswax/peanut oil is my backup for when the whale stuff is gone.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I'd say detergent would counteract the peanut oil. Part of the purpose of soap or detergent is to "cut" grease and oil residue when cleaning.

LD

 

[Sharps1863]

I agree with Dave. The simple Green would do the opposite of what you want to accomplish. I think that one cure all for Black-powder fouling is non-extent. If you shoot Black-powder you are going to get fouling. But it is best to stay away from petroleum based products. They just add to the fouling problem.The last lube I made up for my 45/70 cast bullets was part olive oil part castor oil some paraffin wax mixed with a stick of store bought black powder lube I had. Melted it down and poured it in a pan sit the bullets in and let it harden over night. Long story short, it would not stick to the bullets. Now I'm going to re-melt and soak some patches in. I'll see how that does. :hatsoff: ya'll have a nice day

 

[Pigman]

If you find old cans of transmission/gear oil they are often whale oil.

Foster From Flint

 

[zimmerstutzen]

There's probably been 400,000 different recipes for patch lube. Every body sets out to "build a better mouse trap." You just might.

I prefer plain old spit. Cheap, usually easy to get. And I can't forget to pack it along.