Lube for a block mold?

[Homesteader]

I've got a Lee .690 round ball mold that I haven't used yet. The instructions say that using it without lube will mess it up, and that using the wrong lube will bake on and screw it up. No alox. Do I have to special order something, or is there a more common lube I can use? Thanks again, y'all have already been a great resource!

 

[Stumpkiller]

A tiny bit of beeswax at the joints. A little goes a long way.

 

Silicone and teflon based lubes work well for hinge pivots. NEI used to sell SP Lube, which was a silicone based product. I bought a small bottle at least ten years ago and still have about 3/4 left - it goes a long way.

 

[doverdog]

The lubing that Lee is refering to when using their aluminum molds is not on the hinge pin but on the alignment ridges. Each side of the block has a set of male and female "V" shaped ridges that keep the block in line. They state in their hardbacked "Lee Reloading Manual" that aluminum becomes "sticky" when very hot, as in a bullet mold, and will not close completely causing bullets to be cast with fins. I found this out the hard way, incidently. I bought a stick of RCBS bullet lube soley for the purpose of lubing the Lee molds and it works great. Just a touch the length of each male section of each side of the block and you are good to go. Re-lube after 100 balls or so. Try not to get any in the actual cavity as it will cause vapors that leave wrinkles on the balls until it is burned out. Lee molds are a great value for the money and work even better when used as per the instructions. :thumbsup:

 

[jtmattison]

I use Lee molds and never lube them.
Never had a problem and the balls and bullets all come out perfect.
When I put them up for storage I coat them with oil to prevent rust, that's all.

Huntin

 

I have tried HOPPE's spray-on teflon that is working well on both the Lyman and the Lee moulds(cdn spellng). Other than that, a touch of (modern) bullet lube works (for awhile, but will wrinkle bullets from the fumes & harden gummed up. I much prefer the teflon spray. Rapine also sells a mould prep(teflon spray) that is good - spray it on, let it dry/harden and you are done.
: Yes- the ridges are where most binding takes place. Some of the later moulds have a steel pin with the "V" groove that works better.
: Teflon spray that drys onto the surface works well & I highly recommmend it.- Rapine or Hoppes - some of them don't stick well.