Lyman GPR stock repair

[rmhutter]

quote=Norcalrob]See the following pictures

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What do you think would be the easiest way to repair this stock.

 

[Redstick Lee]

do you have any walnut board scraps ?

 

[BillinOregon]

If it is broken completely through, I would just use a good grade of epoxy and surgical tubing to clamp it. Some guys have great results with the cyanoacrylate/Krazy Glue adhesives. I can't seem to get them to work very well.

 

[Billnpatti]

I have never repaired a gun stock that is cracked like this but I have done a good bit of woodworking and have repaired furniture that has had similar cracks. In those cases, I found a way to get the glue into the crack and that is by thinning it just a bit and then using compressed air to blow it into the crack. I would just apply a bit of thinned glue to the crack and use my air compressor to blow the glue into the crack as deeply as I could. Then I would wrap surgical tubing around the piece to apply a good bit of pressure to the wood. Allow it to set up until it has dried thoroughly. This has worked on furniture legs and ought to work on a gun stock.

 

[Artificer]

One thing that is often overlooked when repairing such cracks is if there was a mechanical or parts fitment/operation reason that caused the crack in the first place.

Please don't forget to look for something that may have caused the crack, though there may not have been such a reason. However, if there was such a reason, the stock will crack again even when properly glued.

Gus

 

[rmhutter]

I don't have any wood scraps, but there is a Macbeaths hardwoods very close where I could get some walnut hobby sheets.

 

[rmhutter]

I was thinking titebond or gorilla glue for the cracks, and bedding epoxy for adding a chunk of walnut behind the lock.

 

[rmhutter]

I was thinking I might thin some Titebond and force it into the cracks. It is not broken into 2 pieces, but the cracks do run pretty close to the trigger inlet.

 

[rmhutter]

I don't see any mechanical/fit issues. I was thinking maybe the previous owner may have over tightened the lock screw, but not sure(don't think so.)

 

[jdw276]

When after cleaning the barrel, you go to insert the barrel into the breech, if you don't get it inserted completely, as you put downward pressure on the barrel to lay it in the barrel channel, it grabs the stock. The pressure forces the breech up and the barrel forces the stock down. The weak part of stock is the grain where it is drilled through for the lock bolt.

This is how it worked on my tc. when I had bought it, it had the Crack in the same place. I inserted the barrel incorrectly and noticed the Crack spreading. Quickly quit doing that!

 

[Black Hand]

I was thinking titebond or gorilla glue for the cracks, and bedding epoxy for adding a chunk of walnut behind the lock.

Before gluing anything, strip the finish from the stock and stain the cracks and the joint between the stock and the repair piece so the glue lines don't show. DO NOT use an oil-based stain at this point.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Gorilla glue is quite strong, but the version I had foams up and will be quite the chore remove it from the surface of the wood.

 

[Ames]

Between the crack and that chunk you are missing, unless you also have the chunk I'd opt for carving a new stock. The bad one is not 200 years old or a 400 hour masterpiece. I'd put my efforts into a new one and upgrade the wood.
Just my two centos. :v

 

[M. De Land]

I'd take the stock completely down and use thinned, water proof win cured , Carpenters glue working from the inside out. I'd wedge the cracks open from the inside and then drive the thinned glue to the bottom of every crack with compressed air.
Once it set up I would again from the interior make cross trenches perpendicular to all cracks and glue in small threaded steel or brass stock, if there is room, to a flush interior fit. This reinforces the crack just as a tree limb does to a block of wood you are trying to split.
Missing wood I file the stub off flat and glue in an over size new matching color plug with a cross doll or two for shear reinforcement and shape back to original profile.
I like to finish with spar verathane for sealer then Tru-oil hand rubbed out.

 

[dragnetbill]

For future reference what range psi do you set the air compressor at?

 

[rmhutter]

I am kind of leaning toward getting a blank hawken half stock and trying my hand. Plain maple half stocks are only $70.

 

[Zonie]

I'm not sure where you found a $70 maple half stock but Pecatonica Rivers half stock blank is now $80 for the plain maple.

In addition to this they want $47.50 for shaping it and cutting the barrel channel and drilling the ramrod hole.

If you go this route, be sure to call them to tell them exactly what your up to.
If you don't, they will cut the lock mortise for the L&R lock. (It might work for the Lyman and it might not. They would know for sure.)

Pecatonica River
815-968-1995

 

[Black Hand]

I am kind of leaning toward getting a blank hawken half stock and trying my hand. Plain maple half stocks are only $70.

Seems your time would be better spent doing other things. The gun isn't worth enough to make the effort rebuilding. Repair it, stain it dark so the repair isn't visible and shoot it.

If you feel the urge to build, get a quality kit and go for it. At least your time will go towards something worthwhile.

Just my opinion...

 

[M. De Land]

I use the canned compressed air for dusting computer key boards. I don't know what the PSI is but it will sure drive liquid into a crack or clear reaming chips out of a barrel chamber reamer.

 

[rmhutter]

TOW has a hawken halfstock for $84. Inlet for 15/16 barrel and 3/8 ramrod. I think this is a pretty good deal. Just have to inlet lock and triggers(the hard part).