Lyman Great Plains Kit

[Sharp Shooter]

I am going to get a GPR and I might do the kit. What would I need to do with the kit?

Thanks

 

[Birddog6]

What would you need to do with the kit ?

Unbox it, take it to the kitchen table, slap it together & go shoot the sucker !! :hatsoff:

Or you could send it to me as a early X-mas present !! YES ! That would be a GREAT idea !! :grin:

Actually, minor trimming on the wood, sanding & finishing of the stock & metal parts & assemble it.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

Sharp Shooter,
I just finished a GPR and it is a fine starter project. It may require some minor inletting work on the butt plate, tang, etc. You could just sand down the stock and finish, or put a little more effort and reshape it to your liking. I found that the cheek piece was a bit too massive for my liking, so I reshaped it, along with the comb and brought it more in line with a Hawken. You could add some inlay pieces, wire, etc. The walnut stock is good enough to finish without any stain, or you could use stain. Depends on the look you want. It's a great learning tool and wetted my appetite for more. Here's a link to my GPR. Poke Here Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Scott

 

[Sharp Shooter]

Did you have to blue it? Also, How long did it take?

 

[Old40Rod]

You don't have to do anything if you like the "in the white look". I browned mine with LMF. I like the browned look better than blue, with leaving it in the white being the second option. The LMF browning solution is idiot proof, for the most part, and gives good results. Browning time depends primarily on your humidity as the application takes just a few minutes. I do all my parts in a small bathroom I can easily steam up. It usually takes about 2-3 hours per coat, then card. Usually after about 4-5 coats I'm good to go.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

I used Birchwood Casey Super Blue. Application is easy, just follow the instructions. It blues fairly fast. I wanted a worn blue heading to gray appearance, so I rubbed it back with 0000 steel wool. To get more of a gray, I probably should have used something like a scotch bite pad. I corresponded with a builder who built a North Carolina Mountain rifle. He put an aged gray on the metal by using Super Blue and and a scotch bite pad. He let the blue work on the metal over night to get some nice pitting before he rubbed it back. Beautiful gun. Look at some of the threads from Mike Brooks. His work is an inspiration. I believe he uses LMF to brown the barrel, takes it all back, then Super Blue and rubs it back with steel wool to a gray. You can do pretty much whatever you want. I think that the cold blue and cold browing works well for an aged apperance. I haven't tried using these applications to try for a deep "factory" blue.
Scott