Lyman kit

[luvv2hunt]

Hello all, I am in the process of sanding my stock on my gpr kit and would appreciate any advice on how to finish the stock and what method to use to finish the metal parts. Thanks Brandon

 

I've always prefered "Tru-oil" on my GPR stocks, rubbed to a dull "satin finish", and "browned" all the iron hardware, barrel, and include'n the lock!! :thumbsup:

YMHS
rollingb
http://www.traditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.org/forum.html

 

[elk_chaser1]

Aren't locks case hardened on a GPR? If so, does this affect their ability to "take" brown? I am considering using the Laurel Mtn. Forge cold browning solution.

 

The Lyman lock "looks" case hardened, but I think it's jest a form of "finish" simular to blueing they use.

Birchwood Casey's blue and rust remover takes the "case hardened" (finish) right off the Lyman locks.

YMHS
rollingb

 

[Zonie]

It really doesn't make much if any difference whether the steel is case hardened or not.
Browning is just getting a special "hard" rust to form, and hard steel rusts just like low carbon soft steel.

It is a good idea to use the Bluing remover though because whether it's been blued or has any other color case color the surface is actually a form of rust that does give some protection to the surface.
The Blue remover will do a good job of removing it and any oils or waxes so the Browning solution can do it's work.

On small parts like lock plates, butt plates etc. Birchwood Casey Plum Brown will work well too. It doesn't develop the "soft velvet" look of slow Browning, but it will definatly turn the metal brown.