Lyman Plains Pistol

[mastrsgt]

As I mentioned in my introduction, I've been away from black powder a long time and re-entered with a Lyman GPR in 50 cal. since I would eventually like to build a flintlock rifle from a kit, I thought I would start out with something simple. I now own a Lyman Plains pistol, also 50 cal. and was wondering if anybody had built it and any thoughts the group may have about it. It looks pretty simple, but a lot of things LOOK simple. What would be an appropriate stain and shuld the hardware and barrel be browned or blued. Thanks for any comments or ideas.

Don R

 

[Zonie]

Don: I haven't built that gun but Dixie rates it a Skill Level 1 which means it is about 95% done before you start. Says Dixie "Will require final fitting of metal parts, final sanding and finish. May require some holes to be drilled. Metal may require some minor polishing and require bluing or browning."

A few thoughts:
1. Take your time, try hand fitting parts together first. If they won't go find out why and use a good file or sandpaper to remove just the offending area. Keep edges sharp and crisp.
2. If you have to drive the sights into the dovetails DONT hit them directly with a hammer. Use some soft metal(brass or aluminum) or hard wood between the hammer and the sight.
3. If you need to install screws it is best to drill a pilot hole with a 1/16 dia bit. Put some bar soap on the threads before screwing the fastener in. It lubes the threads and keeps you from having to apply excessive force to the screwdriver.
4. Use a screwdriver that FITS the screw slot.
5. If you want to remove a lot of wood, sand across the grain. If you do this, always finish it by sanding with the grain to smooth the surface and remove scratches.
6. To smooth the barrel and other metal parts use the Silicon Carbide wet/dry paper. (Emory cloth is about as useful as hind tits on a bore hog). Start with 120grit and finish with 400 grit. Wrap the paper around a block of wood and block sand to prevent rounding the barrel octogon. Sanding should be done dry.
7. Most plains guns barrels were browned but it's your gun. (If your GPR rifle is blued then I think the pistol should match it. Historically there WERE some blued guns then). The easiest thing to do is buy some cold blue and blue the barrel. Be sure to degrease the metal before blueing (or browning). Any oil (from your hands) will cause a mottled uneven finish. I use acetone or lacquer thinner. I also wear washed cotton gloves (or latex gloves) to prevent contaminating the newly degreased surface. To even out light areas (if any) wash the barrel with soap and water (hence the latex gloves). Dry with a paper towel and reblue.
I don't have space enough to get into Browning but there is a little about it in other posts.
8. Dixie says your gun has a Walnut stock so it shouldn't require anything but a finish and whiskering. To whisker it wet the wood and let it dry. It will feel rough. Use NEW 220 grit sandpaper and lightly sand WITH THE GRAIN just enough to remove the whiskers. Do this at least 3 times. The last time should raise almost no whiskers.
9. To see what it will look like wet the wood and take it outside. While it is wet, that is what it will look like if you don't stain it. If it's too light, I recommend Birchwood Casey Colonial Brown (kinda redish) or Walnut (thinned with a little water). Because this is a water based stain if one coat isn't dark enough you can always stain it again. (My curly Maple may take 4 to 6 coats before I get what I want).
10. Finish it with Linseed Oil, or Tung Oil (some people are allergic to this), or Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.

11. Dixie says ta load her with a .490 ball in a .015 patch with 30 grains o' FFFg an' let her rip!

Ah'm a-bettin she looks as good as she shoots when yar done with her!

 

[mastrsgt]

Jim,
Thanks for the very informative response. I already Birchwood Casey Tru-oil that I have been using on stock of my GPR. It seems to do a good job bringing out the grain and leaving a smooth finish. I have been giving some thought to eventually redoing the barrel and hardware on the rifle since I'm not satisfied with the factory finish of the barrel. For that reason I think I may go the brown route and then change the rifle to match. Does that sound doable?

Thanks again for the response. It has been printed and added to the instructions that came with the kit.

Don R

 

[Zonie]

Don: Glad to help.
About browning, use the "search" engine for browning in the General Interest section for some words about the process. The following explains a little more.

The surfaces you want browned MUST be OIL/GREASE FREE before you start and kept that way thru the whole process.

The surface should Not be polished. A nice soft satin look is what you want.

IMO Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown works well for small parts like trigger guards and locks etc. For your pistol barrel it can do a good job because you can "oven heat" it and control the temperature easily. (Be sure to take the part outside before applying the solution. It gives off some really nasty fumes.)
Rifle barrels present a much bigger problem with this "hot" process because you have to heat the matal to 280-310 degree for best results. This is real hard to do with a propane torch without having cold areas and overheated areas. When you apply the solution it will sometimes create a uneven light brown in the "cool" areas or deep etching in the overheated area of the metal.
If you use this process on a rifle barrel plan on applying it at least 4 times. Even then it may not be uniform.
For the NATURAL RUST method there are a number of products available from Dixie, TOW, Muzzleloader Builders Supply etc. which speed the process some. They usually contain acid which helps it "bite" into the steel faster, or you can just make some WEAK salt water and apply it to the degreased barrel. (Don't forget to oil or grease the bore or it may rust too). Then place the barrel in a humid area and let nature take its course.
When a even coat of rust has formed you need to "card" off the loose "soft" rust leaving the "hard" brown rust on the metal.
Carding is the term for this process. I use the finest steel wool I can get, and I degrease it before using it (the factory oils it for long shelf life). Wrap it around a little flat board (the card) and gently (or not so gently) use it to remove all of the soft rust. I suggest you wear latex surgical gloves from the drug store to keep the oils in your skin off of the barrel any time you touch it. Be careful with the steel wool! Keep the pressure in the CENTER of the barrel flats. The edges usually get more than their fair share of rust removal without you even trying.
Repeat this fluid on, wait and carding until the metal has a nice uniform coat of Hard Rust.
It's hard to describe how this should look when your done with this step. The surface should not be shiny but it should not look like a old rusty hinge with the red rust on it either. I guess it should look like one of my OLD shovels after I have dug some dirt with it if you know what I mean.
When your happy with it then oil it as follows:
Heat the barrel until it is almost too hot to handle. Apply a coat of Boiled Linseed oil and let it cool down. Then wipe it off. Repeat this oiling a few more times and your DONE!!!!!
HAPPY BUILDING

 

can't improve on 'zonies advice, sounds perfect. I have a Lyman Great Plains Pistol in .54 cal. I put together from the kit and I love it. I browned all my furniture with I believe Birchwood Casey's Plumb Brown. Mine came out fine. Take your time, follow the directions and yours should too!

Vic