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Lyman Trade rifle?

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TennesseeJed

40 Cal.
Joined
Jul 7, 2005
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I saw a Lyman Trade rifle in fantastic shape in a pawn shop today. Anyone have one and what are your opinions of them?
 
What I have heard is they are great shooting guns.

Take a good look at the bore prior to buying.

I've found some great deals in pawn shops over the years.

If the price is right I'd buy it.......even though I don't need another gun :surrender: :surrender:
 
I've owned three of them and they are rock solid shooters and perhaps the best bang for your buck out there. As has been said, very important to check the bore before you buy but you also need to know what you're looking for. Rust and minor pitting can be cleaned up and even bores that have fairly deep pits can be excellent shooters. If the bore is trashed then it may still be a bargain since you can have it bored out. A 50 caliber can go up to a .54, even a .62 if the barrel is wide enough across the flats. First and foremost, make sure it is unloaded! Use the ramrod and drop it into the barrel, metal end first but without a cleaning jag. It should stick out of the muzzle by an inch or so if it the factory supplied RR. If it stick out 2 inches or more then it may be loaded. Also, when the RR is dropped into the bore of an unloaded barrel the metal end will hit the breech and slightly bounce, making a metal to metal clink. If loaded, the end of the RR will hit the lead ball with a thunk and won't bounce much as all. It's also a good idea to remove the flint from the jaw before you put any body part in front of the muzzle.

Bring an appropriate sized cleaning jag with you along with some cotton flannel to use as a swabbing patch. You want to put a little oil, WD-40 or another gun lube on the cleaning patch then run it down the bore and remove it. If it brings out rust, powder fouling, etc., you'll know for sure the condition of the bore. If it comes out clean or with very little discoloration you can be pretty sure the bore is good. Do this in conjunction with putting a bore light down it. If no bore light then shine a flashlight into the vent hole while looking into the muzzle.
Hope it's the bargain you are looking for.
 
if the bore is good buy it. if it is back make offer. bobby hoyt can rebore to 54 smoothbore 50 bucks rifled 125
 
Hunting pal had one that I shot a good bit and he did well hunting with it. They're good guns and reliable. I'd say go for it! :hatsoff:
 
My most recent rifle is a Lyman Trade Rifle in .54 cal flint. I'm upgrading from my Deerstalker Grapefruit Slayer, to the Trade Rifle. Added Lyman peep & globe sights, and installed a lighter sear spring (under the plunger) for a better trigger pull. Accuracy is so extreme that I don't even need to add a set trigger.
 
I have one in a 54 cal cap lock. I changed out the front sight as I dont like Lymans thick blades. But the gun itself is a great shooter and I have thought many times about buying the flint version of it just to have another flintlock to play with. Al
 
AZbpBurner said:
My most recent rifle is a Lyman Trade Rifle in .54 cal flint. I'm upgrading from my Deerstalker Grapefruit Slayer, to the Trade Rifle. Added Lyman peep & globe sights, and installed a lighter sear spring (under the plunger) for a better trigger pull. Accuracy is so extreme that I don't even need to add a set trigger.

How well does it spark and what was the trigger like before the spring change? I'm so used to set triggers, the single trigger was the only thing I didn't like about the rifle.
 
Can you please how to do the.....and installed a lighter sear spring (under the plunger) for a better trigger pull. Accuracy is so extreme that I don't even need to add a set trigger. thing ????
 
A Lyman Trade Rifle was my first blackpowder firearm. I hunted and shot target with it for years and as others have said they are great rifles. It got me hooked on the blackpowder sport and led me to eventually building my first longrifle. Mine has always been accurate, consistent, and the lock reliable. I even took third place with it in a local shoot against a lot of experienced guys with custom guns. Great rifle for the money, especially if it will be your first.

The only issues I had with mine was the factory finish (some sort of glossy polyurethane or enamel) cracked when the stock swelled after an all day hunt in the rain. I stripped the stock down and re-finished it with tongue oil (lots of options besides tongue oil). That was several years ago and it has been going strong ever since with little maintenance. Even looks better than the factory job too. I also had a small crack in the stock from the breach into the panel opposite the lock which I was able to repair, but you can have that with any rifle.

Here it is after a successful hunt the year after I refinished it. I also stripped the factory bluing off the barrel and left it in the white...

 
TennesseeJed said:
AZbpBurner said:
My most recent rifle is a Lyman Trade Rifle in .54 cal flint. I'm upgrading from my Deerstalker Grapefruit Slayer, to the Trade Rifle. Added Lyman peep & globe sights, and installed a lighter sear spring (under the plunger) for a better trigger pull. Accuracy is so extreme that I don't even need to add a set trigger.

How well does it spark and what was the trigger like before the spring change? I'm so used to set triggers, the single trigger was the only thing I didn't like about the rifle.
It sparks like a 4th of July sparkler. Never had any issues with any of my Investarms/Lyman frizzens.

I'd shot almost exclusively set triggers & never thought a single trigger would be 'good enough'. I had opportunity to get a lefthanded flint Deerstalker a few years ago & had planned to install a set trigger. After firing it with the stock sear spring I decided I didn't need a set trigger. For hunting and carry in the woods, the factory sear spring is fine, but for bench shooting, a lighter spring makes an enormous difference.
 
Lead Slinger said:
Can you please how to do the.....and installed a lighter sear spring (under the plunger) for a better trigger pull. Accuracy is so extreme that I don't even need to add a set trigger. thing ????

When you remove the sear from the lock, there's a plunger with a coil spring underneath. I go to a local locksmith for small springs for projects and asked for a lighter spring - I brought the original spring & detent along. A spring that fits inside the plunger recess is needed.
the spring needs to be stout enough to reliably reset the sear when placed at half or full cock, but can be much lighter than the factory spring and still be safe.
You can easily drop the trigger release weight by at least half. I got several different springs and tried all to ensure they function safely.

As for the extreme accuracy part - that comes with nearly 50 years of flintlock experience.
 
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