Making a Cartouche stamp

[aprayinbear]

May sound like a simple question, but for all you metal workers out there, how do you make your cartouche stamps (makers mark stamps) for knife blades, barrels, side plates, etc? :hmm:

All suggestions and pics would be greatly appreciated! :v

 

[fatboy]

I havnt made yet but friends have they told me you need a dremmel tool and a pc of car coil spring like 4-5" draw your design on the end youneed to anneal the spring first so its softer to work with and releave want you dont want with the dremmel tool and then harden and temper . They told me for letters and you can buy a reverse stamp set . Hope this gives you some help

 

[LRB]

I just acid etch my signature in, or a maltese cross with LRB, that I freehand draw in the wax ground. I use a nitric acid based steel etch from a company by the name of CRONITE. Takes a little while for it to work, but goes in pretty deep.

 

[omarick1948]

Wick, Someone told me that Aqufortis will work to etch with the wax method. Do you know anything about it?

Rick

 

[LRB]

It should. Aqua fortis is just diluted nitric acid. Don't know how long it takes though. The stuff I use takes about 30-35 minutes to get it real deep, and a lot depends on the surrounding heat. On hot days my acid can be a lot faster. I paint on a ground that Sheffield Knifemakers Supply sells in powder form. They recommend ether as the solvent, but that stuff can be high dollar, and it will evaporate out of the can even with the lid on it. I use toulene instead. I then write my name in the ground, make a shallow dam around it with modeling clay, and fill with the acid. It has to be gently brushed with a soft artist brush about every 2, to 3 minute to break the bubbles that form. When a bubble forms, the acid is not working under it, and you have to keep them broken up. I usually wait until I have at least three knives to do because of the time.

 

[buffcreekforge]

I buy old chisels and punches at garage sales, cut the end off to the desired width. I then anneal the punch by heating to cherry to orange heat in the forge, then cool slowly in hot wood ashes. Then, take small files and a hacksaw to create the desired shapes. I have various size hearts, stars, crescent moons, clover shapes. As you are filing, check your progress by punching in a lead bar. When you reach the desired shape, re-heat the piece to non-magnetic heat and quench in used motor oil. I don't draw the temper back as the punches get hot in use and draw back on their own. This works great with my maker's mark (a buffalo hoof - Buffalo Creek Forge) as well as punch decorating various items I forge.

 

[Bryanbrown]

Here is a nice article from Rich Pierce on the subject.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=8.0