Making a new ramrod - questions

[soup1279]

Years ago I purchased my first "custom" flintlock. I got it local and fairly cheap. It was functional but rough. Looks like maybe it was a guys first attempt at a build. I got my first flintlock deer with it a few years ago so I'm very happy with it. I've decided I want to fix it up a little but still keep it fairly rough as I think it has character.

Some of the barrel pins were broken so I've replaced all of them. Instead of tapering the ramrod the builder carved out a half moon shape in the front lock screw because the ramrod wouldn't fit. I've replaced both lock screws and I have made a new hickory tapered ramrod to fit properly. My question is: Before I stain to match the rifle and pin on the ends is there anything else I should do to the ramrod to help preserve it and maybe strengthen it?

Thanks

 

[Phil Coffins]

Use a water base stain then a coat of any stock finish, boiled linseed would be last on my list. The strength of the hickory is how well the grain lays so if you picked a good one you’re set.

 

[rich pierce]

There’s nothing one can do to strengthen sound wood by a treatment. As Phil said, it’s all about the grain in the stick.

 

[bptactical]

While the first two replies are correct you can make the ramrod a bit tougher.
Go get a section of 1” PVC a couple inches longer than the rod. Glue a cap on one end.
Put your rod in there and then fill it up with a 50-50 mix of boiled linseed and turpentine. Cap it off and let it sit in there, the longer the better. It will soak in and make the rod more flexible and substantially reduce a risk of breakage.
When you do decide it has been in there long enough you can “bone” it. Using a smooth piece of bone or metal(spoons work well) rub the surface of the rod. Use as much pressure on it as you can and keep it wet with a couple drops of linseed oil.
You compress the outer surface of the wood and it helps to make it tougher.
Case hardening for wood!

 

[necchi]

I understand the "bone it" process, there is merit to the surface compression.
But the soaking thing is a myth with no benefit.
Been there/done that,,

 

[sheriff john]

Always been curious as to how old-timers whittled down a 42" hickory stick to make a ramrod.

 

[deerstalkert]

Always been curious as to how old-timers whittled down a 42" hickory stick to make a ramrod.

slowly.

 

[necchi]

Straight grain Hickory splits real purty, then there a bunch of scrapping that goes on.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Always been curious as to how old-timers whittled down a 42" hickory stick to make a ramrod.

My second rifle build in the 70's has a RR made out of the strip of Curly Maple from above the barrel channel. Not period correct, but I wanted to match the wood. Rip to oversize square, then plane, scrape, sand. Don't ever plan on using it for safety's sake.
Larry

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

Yeah, there are a few things you can do:

1. Never use it to clean the bore.
2. Never use it to pull a stuck bullet/ball.
3. Never pound on it with anything. If the ball is that hard to ram, you need to get a small ball or a thinner patch.
4. Never use it on rainy days.
5. Maybe get an aluminum ramrod and/or range rod and never use the wooden rod for anything but looks or maybe an occasional load in good weather.
6. I have heard of people using Johnson's Paste Wax on wooden ramrods. I've used it on stocks, but never tried it on a ramrod.
7. Wooden ramrods pick up grit that can damage the muzzle crown. No real way to fix that other than to use a bore guide.

Your mileage may vary/

 

[Ames]

Never understood this subject. It gets pulled up several times a year.
I don't start my lead with a hammer. I don't get stuck halfway down the barrel. I have a half dozen long guns and use a hickory rod on each one. Never broke one and sent it through my palm. You shouldn't be using that much force. Get a smaller ball or a thinner patch. Hold the rod from the side and ease it down 6 inches at a time.
The few times I decided to pull a ball I did it with the gun's hickory rod. No problems. No grease gun. No co2. No special treatment or soaking of the ramrod.
Geeze, what did they do 200 years ago???? I bet it wasn't all these special treatments. I think they just used it. Or used the one off the dead solder next to them.
I now return you to your regularly scheduled whatever this was.

 

[Ames]

And wooden ramrods don't pick up grit unless you lay them down in the grit. Put it back in the thimbles would ya please.

 

[Widows Son]

Look for grains running as straight as you can but you’ll never find perfection. I’ve made many replacement ramrods using oak (Tasmanian oak dowels here in Australia; just choose the best grain lines I can). If your ball size/patch thickness is correct an oak rod will suffice.

As mentioned by others, how one handles the ramrod during use is what determines the lifespan more than the species of wood it’s made from. Place your hands on the rod close to the muzzle so you minimise ‘flex’.

Wooden ramrods are, and have always been, consumable items.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Always been curious as to how old-timers whittled down a 42" hickory stick to make a ramrod.'

It's a lot like making an arrow. Start with straight grained wood. Split out a stave. Shave it to size with a spoke shave and straighten as necessary. It's really not that difficult but a shaving horse is a big help.

 

[soup1279]

Thank you for all of the information. I'm pretty satisfied with the piece I chose. I'll get to finishing it up.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Years ago I purchased my first "custom" flintlock. I got it local and fairly cheap. It was functional but rough. Looks like maybe it was a guys first attempt at a build. I got my first flintlock deer with it a few years ago so I'm very happy with it. I've decided I want to fix it up a little but still keep it fairly rough as I think it has character.

Some of the barrel pins were broken so I've replaced all of them. Instead of tapering the ramrod the builder carved out a half moon shape in the front lock screw because the ramrod wouldn't fit. I've replaced both lock screws and I have made a new hickory tapered ramrod to fit properly. My question is: Before I stain to match the rifle and pin on the ends is there anything else I should do to the ramrod to help preserve it and maybe strengthen it?

Thanks

IMHO, the wooden rammer is just for show. I've seen 'em break and cause injuries. One fella at a shoot was trying to push so hard on his wooden rammer due to fowling. When it broke it went clean through his forearm. When shooting, I always switch to fiberglass. $1.50 at any hardware store. 48" long and comes in all colors. Just cut to size and it already has a tip on it. Fits perfect in 5/16ths. For 3/8th I tie a piece of leather lacing through the thimble to snug it up. And yes, you can install a brass rod tip and make an inexpensive cleaning rod for less than 5$. Semper Fi.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Years ago I purchased my first "custom" flintlock. I got it local and fairly cheap. It was functional but rough. Looks like maybe it was a guys first attempt at a build. I got my first flintlock deer with it a few years ago so I'm very happy with it. I've decided I want to fix it up a little but still keep it fairly rough as I think it has character.

Some of the barrel pins were broken so I've replaced all of them. Instead of tapering the ramrod the builder carved out a half moon shape in the front lock screw because the ramrod wouldn't fit. I've replaced both lock screws and I have made a new hickory tapered ramrod to fit properly. My question is: Before I stain to match the rifle and pin on the ends is there anything else I should do to the ramrod to help preserve it and maybe strengthen it?

Thanks

I'm going to add one more thing. When I know, a customer is going to use the wooden rammer, I never use a dowl. I go into the mountains behind my house and get a long thin/small diameter tree or bush branch. Any type of straight growing will work. There's a bush that grown around here called an 'Arrow Bush'. It's called that because the branches are straight as an arrow. Ledged says Native Americans used the branches for arrows. I wouldn't be surprised, however I wasn't there, so I don't know. I personally have made arrows from this bush, and they are fantastic. I've also used them for rammers. As a tree trunk, the branches grow out in rings, so the grain is not a factor, and the branch is flexible. Other trees that have long straight branches are Burch, Beech, Popular, Wild Cherry. Just to name a few. Ya' need to think outside the box.

The pic is Arrowwood.

 

[soup1279]

Thanks. This replacement is mainly for show. I have brass range rods I use for all of my regular shooting. This would only be used if needed for a secondary shot if I'm hunting with this rifle.

 

[NorthFork]

Never understood this subject. It gets pulled up several times a year.
I don't start my lead with a hammer. I don't get stuck halfway down the barrel. I have a half dozen long guns and use a hickory rod on each one. Never broke one and sent it through my palm. You shouldn't be using that much force. Get a smaller ball or a thinner patch. Hold the rod from the side and ease it down 6 inches at a time.
The few times I decided to pull a ball I did it with the gun's hickory rod. No problems. No grease gun. No co2. No special treatment or soaking of the ramrod.
Geeze, what did they do 200 years ago???? I bet it wasn't all these special treatments. I think they just used it. Or used the one off the dead solder next to them.
I now return you to your regularly scheduled whatever this was.

AMEN!

 

[rkg1]

Years ago I read to soak them in kerosene for as long as you want and it will allow the fibers to slide and not brake as easy. Tried it and for what it is worth I am still using that rod. Don't know if it worked or not but it didn't hurt anything.