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Anyone have experience with L&R's manton lock. Also, do you know what time frame this lock existed in and availability in the US / colonies.
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Manton lock info, Timeframe
- Thread starter BigBoreBLR
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galamb
58 Cal.
The company that Joseph Manton owned/ran, went bankrupt in 1826 and in 1828 he was tossed in jail for a couple years (so probably no lock production going on then :rotf: ).
His older brother, John, had a running shop in 1781, where he worked while doing his apprenticeship.
He opened his own shop in 1789, so fair to say a Manton lock was probably originally built sometime in the mid 1780-early 1820 timeframe unless it was a "knock-off" trying to capitalize on the name (like many other locks that were exported back when).
And no first hand experience with any L&R flinters - have nothing but good to say about their caplocks.
His older brother, John, had a running shop in 1781, where he worked while doing his apprenticeship.
He opened his own shop in 1789, so fair to say a Manton lock was probably originally built sometime in the mid 1780-early 1820 timeframe unless it was a "knock-off" trying to capitalize on the name (like many other locks that were exported back when).
And no first hand experience with any L&R flinters - have nothing but good to say about their caplocks.
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I recently used one in my Tennessee squirrel rifle. I did a minor amount of polishing and tuning, as I would with any lock. The Manton is super fast. Maybe the fastest flintlock I've ever shot. Sparks well, and the flint lasts a long time for me.
This lock works well with a smaller barrel. I used a 3/4" barrel on this gun.
P2120634 by okawbow, on Flickr
This lock works well with a smaller barrel. I used a 3/4" barrel on this gun.
P2120634 by okawbow, on Flickr
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Hi,
The L&R Manton lock model 1700 (?) resembles a few locks made by John Manton during 1785-1795. It has the earlier roller frizzen with the bearing in the toe of the frizzen rather than on the frizzen spring. I do not believe Manton exported locks to America or anywhere else except on his own guns. That said, the lock is pretty generic for English locks made at that time so the style could certainly have been exported to the US during the late 1780s and 1790s. As far as I can tell it bears no resemblance to any locks made by Joseph Manton.
dave
The L&R Manton lock model 1700 (?) resembles a few locks made by John Manton during 1785-1795. It has the earlier roller frizzen with the bearing in the toe of the frizzen rather than on the frizzen spring. I do not believe Manton exported locks to America or anywhere else except on his own guns. That said, the lock is pretty generic for English locks made at that time so the style could certainly have been exported to the US during the late 1780s and 1790s. As far as I can tell it bears no resemblance to any locks made by Joseph Manton.
dave
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I've been focusing on cutting firewood over my food plot before the snow breaks and getting the summer car ready for the road. I've been procastinating because I am worried about that large siler lock doesn't have much gap left on the barrel flats.
Think you would put this on an Early Virginia? Or recommend another LH flintlock for this gun.
Seems chambers only offers the large siler. L&R has a few options. I'd love a queen ann on this gun, but I doubt it would be any better than the large siler is.
Think you would put this on an Early Virginia? Or recommend another LH flintlock for this gun.
Seems chambers only offers the large siler. L&R has a few options. I'd love a queen ann on this gun, but I doubt it would be any better than the large siler is.
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Hi FS,
I sympathize with you about the limited number of left-hand locks. I think the Siler is your best bet if you want to keep it within historically correct bounds. If early Virginia means before and shortly after the Rev War, the Siler is all you really have. If you were thinking more along the lines of 1790-1810 then the English locks might work nicely. If none of that HC stuff is important to you, then I'd go for the Manton or Durs Egg. Good luck FS.
dave
I sympathize with you about the limited number of left-hand locks. I think the Siler is your best bet if you want to keep it within historically correct bounds. If early Virginia means before and shortly after the Rev War, the Siler is all you really have. If you were thinking more along the lines of 1790-1810 then the English locks might work nicely. If none of that HC stuff is important to you, then I'd go for the Manton or Durs Egg. Good luck FS.
dave
galamb
58 Cal.
I would differ slightly from Dave's opinion in that I think most locks, regardless of origin, that at least fit in the timeframe you are looking for, would work on a Virginia.
At least the considerable examples (pics) of originals I have from what is now West Virginia seems like the builders were not to fussy about what lock they used with examples of both English and Gemanic showing up on rifles from the same builder.
If you are considering the Siler you may also want to have a look at the Early American Classic from L&R (yes, comes in left hand) and would be a little more "unique" (there are thousands of Silers out there)
At least the considerable examples (pics) of originals I have from what is now West Virginia seems like the builders were not to fussy about what lock they used with examples of both English and Gemanic showing up on rifles from the same builder.
If you are considering the Siler you may also want to have a look at the Early American Classic from L&R (yes, comes in left hand) and would be a little more "unique" (there are thousands of Silers out there)
Blackbruin
40 Cal.
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Much flat left? What's the concern? Could use a slightly thicker bolster yes.
54ball
62 Cal.
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When I cautioned you about setting the lock too low causing the bottom of the pan to be lower than the side flat, that goes for any lock. With a smaller diameter barrel you have to be precise no matter what lock you use.
Some of these English locks, although maybe a little higher tend to have deeper pans so it's pretty much going to be the same. The bottom line is simply to place your lock carefully.
If you have to have a new lock....Get a Track catalog as they have life size photos front and rear. This is done specifically to help builders with the layout.
