Maple trees

[Swamp Buck]

I have a question regarding the best way to cut/saw a maple tree to obtain stock blanks for muzzleloading gun stocks. I've heard of something called "quarter-sawn" - is that the best way to cut up the tree trunk to get the most usable stock blanks or is there another way?

Also, what would be the minimum diameter of a maple tree one would cut to obtain stock blanks.

I guess what I am looking for is a pattern I could use at some point in the future should the red maple trees I'm thinking about become available for cutting. These trees are at least 2 feet in diameter and even if the wood turned out fairly plain, they would have quite a bit of intrinsic historical value for our family.

 

[davy]

An excerpt ...

" ... Quartersawn boards are created by first cutting a log into quarters and then creating a series of parallel cuts perpendicular to the tree's rings. The yield is not as substantial as in plainsawing but much greater than in riftsawing. The grain in quartersawn wood is relatively consistent, and therefore the end product is stable and often preferred by woodworkers and furniture-makers. Quartersawn wood may include medullary rays and wavy grain patterns that some people prefer to the figures that are revealed with alternative sawing methods.

Since the yield produced by quartersawing wood is substantially lower than other plainsawing, the cost is relatively high. Oak is the most common quartersawn wood; on occassion you may be also able to find quartersawn walnut, cherry and maple. The increased stability, makes quartersawn wood highly sought after for string instrument necks and fret boards. The neck of a guitar, bass or violin, for example, should remain stable consistent throughout their lives; quartersawn wood helps ensure that instrument's sound remains as invariable as possible. "

Hope this helps ... :thumbsup:

Davy

 

[Henry]

The man to answer your question would be
[url] http://www.dunlapwoodcrafts.com/[/url]

He gave many workshops at the Dixon Fair
[url] http://dixonmuzzleloading.com/index.php?section=gunmakersfair[/url]

Most of what I know I learned from him .

The best gun stocks are cut from the very
bottom of the tree , to get the part of the stump
where the wood grain curves m and the same at the " crown " of the tree go get the top curve .
If you can get that curve in the wrist of the stock , it will be less prone to breaking .
Look in museums how many guns have repairs in that area .

This mean a big work of digging and getting the saw chain hitting earth and stone ... something most lumberjack try to avoid .

Very few saw mills will accept to cut trees from
garden , and maple trees in general , for fear of hitting nails , spouts , clotheline hooks etc.
You may have to sign an agreement that you will
pay any damage to their saws ( metal detectors are not foolproof yet )

Fresh cut wood has to be coated with something
to retard uneven dryng and splitting , every pro has his favorite product .

wood from branches is called " reaction wood "
it will warp in a matter of weeks or years .

After that , you have to dry it , another
complex science .
Thes are just a few things to remember

There is a lot to learn to get a good result,
it is no rocket science , but no piece of cake either .

Get a 1:1 plan from from Track of the Wolf
for your gun stock , have it copied , glue the
copy on a piece of plywood , it will make a good template , I carry mine at the wood lot and even at the car dealer ( to see if my guns will fit in the trunk ) It alway get you a few smiles .