MG lock

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joeboleo1

40 Cal.
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Have heard from couple forum members that Tip Curtis has a new flintlock out, think it is called M/G ?? Anyone tried it out yet? Just wondered how it compared to others.
 
Jack Brooks of Colorado owns the original lock it was patterned off of, an the M/G, that's tht Mold, and Gon Shop of Ohio is producing it for R.E. Davis, and others. It's supposed to be a more correct lock for mid 18th century Pa. guns, mor germanic. It's a copy of an original, and not styled after one. M/G build solid locks. I have one I got from tip for a future build. To see pics of the lock go to the R.E. Davis site. It's also been advertised in M/B, and Muzzleloader Magazine.

Bill

King Kong's last words-- This's the last time I fall for a Blonde!
 
Tip also has a late English Nock flintlock with a waterproof pan that he's been selling for a year or two. I think its also made by the M&G shop. Appears to be a slick lock.

Sean
 
I got a kit from Tip at Dixon's last weekend and it had a MG lock with it. I'm too new to know the difference, but it seems nice. Meet with 6 experienced builders once a week and they got a bit of drool on it, so I'm guessing it's gonna be pretty good...
 
I bought a very nice in-the-white .40 caliber youth Lancaster rifle from Tip Curtis at Dixon's Gunbuilders Fair this year. The lock is an M&G. I haven't fired the rifle yet but the lock feels smooth as silk to my somewhat novice senses.

I haven't taken the lock off the rifle yet to get a better look at it. I hope to see more info about the makers and availability of spare parts.

Old Salt
 
I think Tip has about 5 new locks he is promoting & they are pretty good looking locks. Not as polished as a Chambers locks & the internals are not machined quite as fine, but still a good looking lock & he is hot on Chambers heels in competing. Three features that make them stand out from the others:

1: They cock real easy & the hammer/cock rolls back just smooth as glass.

2: The bolsters are Much thicker than all the others avail & this gets the spring out away from the barrel. This should have been done Years ago on all locks sold today.(IMHO)

3: When you cosk it to halfcock or full cock, the sear arm is right in the same place as it originally was so it lets you take allot of freeplay out of the trigger movement.

I have not tested any yet to see how well they hold up or how well they spark. I have asmall one here to test on a TN rifle I will build, but have not gotten to it yet.

:thumbsup:
 
Sean said:
Tip also has a late English Nock flintlock with a waterproof pan that he's been selling for a year or two. I think its also made by the M&G shop. Appears to be a slick lock.

Sean

If your talking about the lock I think you are, it's a Pete Allen lock. I handled one a Dixon's last weekend and I think I may get one. I didn't look it over REAL close but did notice a few things that need to be recified. The one I looked at had a roll pin for the axle on the frizzen spring roller as well as a rollpin attaching the stirup to the tumbler :barf: . As well, the tumbler stop was a full 1/16" short of the bridle :shocked2: . Otherwise it looked OK. For as cheap as these locks go for these days (I think this lock was $115+-) you gotta expect to do some work to them.
 
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