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Mild Steel for Knife Blade

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44-henry

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Before the roast begins let me explain myself. For years I have let students at my university lab make small knives and caseharden parts using bone and charcoal. Invariably the question comes up each time whether they could just use mild steel for a knife blade and caseharden it. I have always said that it wouldn't make a very good knife blade. But now I am questioning some aspects of that.

Looking at Wick's very nice Penny knife in the recent thread got me thinking. These things were mass produced in England and, perhaps, the colonies and were sold very cheaply (hence the name).

From my understanding of metallurgy from this era wrought iron (in progressively finer grades) would have been the cheapest of the ferous metals available, followed than by blister steel, shear steel, and eventually crucible steel. With each phase beginning with blister steel carbon distribution would have gotten progressevely more uniform and the structure would have become finer.

Blister steel got its name from the cementation process where large steel bars were packed in carbon (charcoal) and heated past critical for hours/days allowing the carbon to absorb into the bars. Following this the bars would have been covered with small patches resembling blisters giving the basis for the name.

At this stage I presume the material could have been used for some things as is, or it would have been further refined by forging it out, working the carbon deeper and more uniformly into the steel. Once the thickness was reduced the bard would cut, and forge welded back on each other to gain thickness and the process completed. At this stage the material was referred to as shear steel, or double shear. The shear implied the suitability of this material for cutting instruments.

So my question is this. On a very cheap knife, would manufactures have taken the time to go to the next stage of the process and use shear steel which would have been more costly to produce. Even blister steel as mentioned above involved very large bars of iron and sometimes days in the furnace to convert to blister steel. Why would they not simply use a good grade of wrought iron (which was to my understanding available in different grades), shape the blade to almost finished dimensions (including drilling the pivot hole), and then carburize a quantity of these.

In our lab the carburizing process that we use can provide very deep penetration. I often have students wrap the parts in soft iron wire that is about 1/16" in diameter to improve the color pattern. After the quench we find that the carbon seems to completely penetrate through the wire suggesting that even at the short times (2 hours) that the casehardening takes that the carbon penetration is sufficient to make this wire brittle to the point of being able to break apart with our fingers. On a thin pocket knife blade I have no doubt that the carbon would penetrate completely through even the thickest cross section in a relatively short period of time (4-5 hours). Even if it didn't penetrate through say the spine this would not be all that undesirable as the edge would certainly be completely carburized for a good distance back. This could provide the same effect as a laminated steel blade. Following the carburizing process the blades could be allowed to cool down slowly in the charcoal effectively annealing them and minor adjustments, clean up could be performed followed by a conventional hardening and tempering operation.

So after my somewhat long winded explanation/defense, where do we stand? Is it possible to make a knife blade from mild steel? Would this have been a process used in early colonial knife production for cheap blades? I am not in any way suggesting this is a good idea for a modern high performance knife and the material wouldn't come even close to our most basic tool steels available today, but would it have been, in a historical context, a likely occurrence a historical possibility? Am I off my rocker?

Alex Johnson
 
This could provide the same effect as a laminated steel blade.

I can hardly spell metallurgy. My experience is nowhere near yours working iron/steel.
But, I have bought a few knives. The laminated steel blades have a flexible (spring?) core and the outer and edge is the hard stuff. That gives the best of both worlds, a hard edge that stays sharp a long time and flexible toughness.
Seems to my what you are theorizing would produce a very brittle blade. Might be tough and sharp on the outside but not suitable for any rough work.
 
My thought is that it wouldn't necessarily be brittle. That would be controlled by subsequent heat treatment. Tempering with more of a spring temper at the back and harder at the edge should allow much of what you mention.
 
Alexander, what a wonderful thread. Can't wait to hear from Wick and some of our other experts. Boy, I never had a professor like you when I was at university. If I had, my life might have turned out useful.


:rotf:
 
Alexander L. Johnson said:
My thought is that it wouldn't necessarily be brittle. That would be controlled by subsequent heat treatment. Tempering with more of a spring temper at the back and harder at the edge should allow much of what you mention.

As I admit, I am not well versed on this kind of subject.
Good idea or not, really I dunno :idunno: you are to be complimented for your innovative thinking and experimenting. :hatsoff:
 
I don't think Kasenit is made any more and I'm guarding the supply I have left but in the instructions they give two different processes. For a thin case hardening you heat up the part and dip it in the kasenit (I think it might just be ground up bones) and quench. A skin thin hardening BUT the second method has the metal in a pipe packed with Kasenit and cooked for hours and I think the carbon gets in .10" (I'm not sure on that but I think it was that depth) SO..... the thought occurs to me, "Gee, you could use mild steel, caseharden and you would get plenty of carbon along the edge and then draw to a temper that you could hone and you end up with a hard edge and soft back/core. Seems do-able but I've never done it. If you have the set up I see nothing to lose from giving it a go.
Others may know the knife maker, he died many years ago, but he made knives out of mild steel and had some sort of tempering secret that he never told anyone about.
Somewhere in the back of my mind is that mild steel scalpers or "Indian" knives were shipped to N. America but how well they sold I don't know.
On the penny knives- to my knowledge "regular" steel, most likely blister.
 
I don't know of mild steel or wrought iron knives being made in a factory manner. There are mentions of wrought iron blades being found, but these were homemade, probably for lack of anything better being readily available. Case hardened steel can be tempered, but I am thinking it may still be brittle in blade use because of possibly too much carbon. I am also thinking that if it was a decent way to make blades back then, it would have been done, and I've not heard of any evidence that it was. There is, or was a knifemaker making his own blister steel in a heat treat oven not long ago. I believe he only cooked it for 4 hours, which contradicts what I have read, which says from days to even weeks to make it. The best answer is to try it and see what you get. I would not consider Kasenit though. Do it in the pack hardening method with bone or whatever is used. The guy that was making the blister steel had a video on the subject. I'll see if I can find it. I would not be surprised if LaBonte has it filed away.
 
As for imported knives there is simply no period documentation (that I know of) for producing knives in quantity of anything but steel, in the cheapest models it was blister steel, but even on cheaper models shear steel was used, with crucible (usually noted as cast steel in period documents) steel being normally being used for higher quality items such as razors, but by the first quarter of the 19th Century cast steel was even being used for various trade knives.
In order to save on steel case knives and other table/kitchen cutlery was usually made with a steel blade that was forge welded to a wrought iron bolster and tang (I have pictures of the weld if interested)

Just one period source is "The Circle of Mechanical Arts" dated 1813 is available on Google Books for free and includes a chapter on making cutlery. Another is the "Art of the Cutler" dated 1787 - difficult to find in English but well worth the search.

On the other hand there are locally made examples of wrought iron bladed knives that were apparently then carburized, but they are not common despite Morgan Grant's "wrought blade" descriptions.

Bottom line based on the last 40+ years of studying period cutlery - the most common method for blades by far was to use pre-made steel at least by the English.....

NOTE: There is some evidence that some period traders tried to pawn off wrought iron blades to the natives and they would have nothing to do with them..
 
Looks like I'll have to make a few test blades and see what happens. For all intents and purposes I suppose that talk of casehardening can be forgotten. I think if a thin section of mild steel is carburized long enough it will become more or less the equal of blister steel. I really don't have any shortage of good tool steel, but this will be an interesting experiment. The carbon content, as Wick mentioned, will probably be the biggest problem.

Wick, I do believe I have seen that video. The times are certainly shorter than what I have heard of the process, but I think it has something to do with the thickness of material being carburized. I would imagine that early makers would have gone on to produce shear steel and would have wanted thicker sections of blister steel to start the process. It would take more time for the carbon to penetrate this heavier steel.

I would really like to see any period documentation to the production of folding knives, I will have to look into the titles mentioned earlier.
 
Wick Ellerbe said:
Take a look at these videos. I saw on another forum a guy in England made blister steel in 2 to 3 hours. Saw a few mentions of 2200° for that time. http://doorcountyforgeworks.com/Blister_and_Shear_steel_class.html[/quote]

Yep these thinner/smaller sections of wrought iron can be made in shorter times especially at higher heats.
The notes I have on the large scale production has the bars of wrought being about 1/2" x 4" x 20' - they were stacked in large piles with charcoal layered between and then covered like when making charcoal. The wrought iron (the best came from Sweden) was then cooked for up to two weeks - using such "crude" methods, quality control of blister steel was not easy to maintain, the bars being in various levels, etc would heat at different rates so carbon content would/could vary by placement and batch. There are several books on the cementation of steel that further describes the method which includes times and temps used for the large batches. There are several period references to blister steel being of such poor quality they could not guarantee their work.
Thus came shear steel, a process which "homogenized" the steel via carbon migration while being re-heated and forged to give better overall quality. This method was first used in England by about 1690.

and yep Ric Furrer (at the link posted by Wick) is one of the modern makers with lots of experience making period steels.
 
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There is a good 2 part article, in 2 separate issues on French folders in "The Journal of the Early Americas". Volume 1, issues 4 and 5. Writen by Kevin Gladysz and Ken Hamilton. However, I don't recall a lot on the acual production practices, or any specifics to the steel used, but you can bet it was as LaBonte said, premade steel. Knives, as most other common commodities were made in a primitive version of a production line by specialty workers. Forgers, grinders, polishers, grip makers, assembly personel, and at least sometimes doing some of these jobs at home, and being paid by the piece. I have also read of grinders renting time on the factory stones, and being paid by the piece.
 
Alex, I've been experimenting and gathering information for the last six years or so on case coloring and have been using Kasnite for many years in carbon infusion of steel. Most of what I have learned about Kasnite was trial and error and most of what I have learned about coloring came from the writings of Oscar Gaddy and anyone else who would share information with me.
My case color experiments have been in the temperature range of 1450 to 1550 F and after drilling some cased parts with carbide have a reasonable idea of some of the case depths.
I have used black wire to hold small parts together in my crucibles and after the aerated water quench the wire will do as you have describe in fracturing easily however the thin (.060) mild steel quench shields I used 5-6 times only cased to a depth of about .003 to no more than .005 from what I could see when I bent them to fracturing. The core remained soft. I would like to figure out how to mic the depth but haven't done so yet.
I found that if I went much over 1550 the case color did not appear although the case depth kept increasing.
I have some other very good material from English double gun makers and their case color procedures and have picked up some good information.
I use 28 mesh bone charcoal and recently found some 28 mesh coconut water purification charcoal that when mixed 3 to 1 , wood to bone gives me some pretty nice colors. This was a neat discovery as I had to pay the hazmat to Alaska for the regular hard wood charcoal and this seems to work just as well so far.
I also think the Chinese and later the Japanese used iron ore infused with carbon to forge their famous swords long before the English did. I have heard it said that when English steel would meat laminated oriental steel edge to edge the Brit sword would either shear off or a good size plug would be cut out. Wonder about the truth of that one.
I would be very interested in your mild steel case infusion as the chart says 1600 F for 4 hours will harden to a depth of .032. That's pretty deep case and might work for a blade.
The thing about charcoal casing that is a definite advantage over Kasnite type infusion is the reducing envelope the steel is in while being infused without the oxidation of the flame.. MD
 
Might try a differential quench in oil, or try it in a strong salt water solution. I've never made one out of mild steel, however I've used 1070 HC and quenched differentially in a bacon grease and crisco mix and had more than acceptable results. At any rate good luck...Bud
 
Didn't say there wasn't. Just passing on what I've been told. I know that some fellas use a Super Quench on mild steel, if your familiar with that. They use it on steel that they've had problems with in the past. Also know that there's more than one way to do something according to Jim Batson, Larry Harley, Tai Goo, etc...
 
Nifeman said:
Didn't say there wasn't. Just passing on what I've been told. I know that some fellas use a Super Quench on mild steel, if your familiar with that. They use it on steel that they've had problems with in the past. Also know that there's more than one way to do something according to Jim Batson, Larry Harley, Tai Goo, etc...

Bud - super quench on 1018/20 mild steel will give you an Rockwell C scale hardness max about 42C max - a bit too soft for a knife blade to have any edge holding qualities but not a bad hardness for an axe (I prefer about 48) though.
 
Thanks Chuck. I was under the impression in the initial posting that he was wondering if anything could be done to mild steel to get any kind of hardness for a more usable blade. I realize you'll never make a Buck or Gerber from it, just a tad harder for the type of steel they had back in the day, that's all...Bud
 
M.D.
I have also played extensively with color case hardening as part of my university research and it is a fascinating subject. One thing, as you mentioned, colors start to diminish rapidly once you go above 1500 degrees F. This really is not an optimal temperature for carburizing. From research that I have done the charcoal in the mix is only mildly active at 1700 degrees F, and becomes very active at 1800 degrees F. I have a older technical handbook on carburizing written in the early 1930's and they mention that the 1800 degree temperature with simple charcoal was the temperature used for early blister steel production and also for armor plate.

For use as a finish bone and wood charcoal color case hardening is historically correct, but, as Gaddy stated in his first article, the actions studied were only very superficially hardened. If one is going after a very deep case depth the process is really not suitable (without a few modifications).

I have used Kasenit a fair amount in the lab and we have several pounds of the early formula which is quite different than the last that they produced. The can I have recommends 1650 degrees F for pack hardening. Personally I find the stuff messy to work with compared to charcoal and only use it for quick torch jobs where a thick case is not needed. I have found you can get decent colors with Kasenit if used in the same fashion that one would color case harden with charcoal and at the lower temperature range. The sound of the semi molten Kasenit hitting the water is not for the faint of heart however.
 
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