ML silhouette target templates

[MC One Shot]

I am looking for set of templates to make some steel silhouettes for use with muzzle loaders. We have started a new group and need to start making/gathering targets.

Not sure of their size for ML use or if are they reduced NRA BPCR and if so by what percentage/ratio.

At what ranges are the silhouettes most commonly shot with MLs.

If some one post a link for some or send me a copy would be appreciated.

Thank you

 

[Mad Mucus]

Google :thumbsup:

 

[arw22lr]

Contact the NMLRA, as they have silhouette matches.

 

[BigBoreBLR]

All depends on what you want to do. Are you competing formally? Or locally, but serious about it.

The most common is the NRA shilouettes. Turkey, Ram, Chicken, and pig. 1/2 scale is commonly seen by me in NY. Maybe a full scale chicken or turkey.

The edges and the extra width are luck shots. What you're really shooting for is circles. You can save yourself some money by just shooting circles.

4" at 50, 6" at 75, 8" at 100. Some shoots more or less move targets back farther maybe the 8" wide one, but usually 12" tall or more at 150 yards.

a 2" circle at 30 yards is a good one. Like shooting eggs lollipops, and charcoal brickets are done at 20 yards.

Best to practice on something a bit more challenging than the actual thing.

Overall, it's cheaper to buy pre-cut than buying one sheet of metal. Or course, scrap stuff is always good.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Cowboy Action Shooting is all "reactive" targets, so all steel, with some clay pigeons, and balloons thrown in...so CAS suppliers should have what you're looking for, or directions on how to fabricate the stuff....just check their specs and they will pretty much tell you what you need to use.

LD

 

[Rifleman1776]

I used to manufacture silhouette targets. Only ones I have left are a Bar' and a Buff' from the ml set of four. The other two were a chicken and a ram. I don't recall :idunno: where I got the sizes but they were an official something at the time.
The Buff shown is about 7 inches long, the Bar about 4". I can send or post a pic of my catalog cover showing all my targets if that will help, or be of interest.

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[Rifleman1776]

Overall, it's cheaper to buy pre-cut than buying one sheet of metal. Or course, scrap stuff is always good.

That can open a whole 'nuther can of cussin' and discussin'.
If you have access to a good welder with a cutting torch and lot of scrap steel it might be cheaper to make your own initially. But, many steels do not hold up well to being shot at. This means you may be constantly replacing targets. My targets were made of T1A, used in the mining industry a lot because of durability. But, even those could be indented by a soft lead prb. Buying ready mades will be expensive but might be cheaper in the long run. Yer decision. Good luck.

 

[coloradoclyde]

plain ole 3/8 mild steel will withstand any muzzleloader short of field artillery. :grin:

 

[Grenadier1758]

The NMLRA targets are the following:
1 Crows at 50 yards
2 Groundhogs at 100 yards
3 Buffalos at 150
4 Turkeys at 175 yards
5 Standing Bears at 200 yards

The NMLRA has the silhouette templates available. You will have to enlarge them to full size and find someone to cut them from steel plate. There were at one time some suppliers who made up the sets. Its been a very long time since I looked at the cost of the set of NMLRA targets.

The design of the silhouettes are such that when properly set on the tipping point even a 45 caliber rifle will knock them over. 54 caliber is best, but the trajectory considerations come to play at the long range targets.

The Buffalo targets take quite a beating and will occasionally require some serious realignment to be set on balance on the stands.

I'd have to do some research for the squirrel rifle silhouette targets.

 

[fleener]

A few years ago I had one of each of the NMLRA animals cut out for me. I have them hanging from a frame by chains. You never have to reset them....

Fleener

 

[Rifleman1776]

plain ole 3/8 mild steel will withstand any muzzleloader short of field artillery. :grin:

If ye look carefully at the Buff in my pic you will see indentations. Those are with pure lead roundballs at normal velocities.
With extensive testing, I found the key to target survival is a small base or to let the target swing with chains. If the target cannot move easily it will dent and/or break the weld to the base.
Mild steel? :hmm: If ye say so.......

 

[coloradoclyde]

True...freestanding or hanging is best to dissipate the energy, but I have never had a problem with a muzzleloader as one has never pierced a target. sure...dimples... but they are purely cosmetic.

Of course the occasional weld will break or someone manages to break a chain. :grin:

 

[Hefner]

The Muzzlestuffers ML club in Mesa, AZ used .22 Cal. silhouette targets. 25 yd.-chicken, 50 yd.-pig, 75 yd.-turkey, 100 yd.-ram. Later we added a 1"x5" tall bolt at 15 yd. Five targets at each distance made up the match. After several years, many silhouette's feet had to be rewelded and the bodies flattened out, because after many hits they became slightly concave.

I cut out set for my personal use and created take-down pipe frames and hung the silhouettes from chains like Fleener described.

 

[coloradoclyde]

.22 Cal. silhouette targets.

Next time use thicker steel.
I've seen a Springfield rifle toss a 2 foot wide pig silhouette made from 3/8 thick steel 2 feet into the air.
3/8 is my minimum thickness for making a target.

 

[Rifleman1776]

True...freestanding or hanging is best to dissipate the energy, but I have never had a problem with a muzzleloader as one has never pierced a target. sure...dimples... but they are purely cosmetic.

Of course the occasional weld will break or someone manages to break a chain. :grin:

For the sake of emphasizing safety I'll tell a true story that happened to me.
I was testing some new steel as a possible replacement for my T1A. I welded a 1/2"X1'X1' hunk (heavy) to a similar piece for the base. At the range I placed it about 5 yards in front of me. Using a Blackhawk .45 long Colt revolver I proceeded to shoot at it. First shot made a tennis ball sized dent, as did the next five. On reloading, my left arm felt wet and I looked, blood all over the place. :shocked2: From that close range the detrius was directed almost straight back at me and a piece cut me. I tell this to emphasize a steel target MUST-MUST be allowed to fall easily or swing readily from a chain. To not do so is to invite serious injury. And, for the record, I was wearing safety glasses.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Been hit by my own splatter many times.....and I agree steel targets should never be permanently fixed....they need to be able to move to dissipate the impact. :thumbsup:

 

[Grenadier1758]

And the steel targets should be at least 50 yards from the firing line.

 

[Rifleman1776]

And the steel targets should be at least 50 yards from the firing line.

There are exceptions. I used to shoot Man-O-Mano matches at much shorter ranges. e.g. 5 to 10 yards. These are horizontaly swinging targets on a 'tree'. I have used Ruger Old Army and modern .44 mag. many times with never a problem. There are also targets made to use .22lr for these types of matches. Steel used and the way they are mounted is the key to safety.

 

[William O.]

Cowboy Action Shooting is all "reactive" targets, so all steel, with some clay pigeons, and balloons thrown in...so CAS suppliers should have what you're looking for, or directions on how to fabricate the stuff....just check their specs and they will pretty much tell you what you need to use.

LD

I agree, SASS/CAS would be a good resource. http://www.sassnet.com/mercantile/actiontargets.php
I also want to mention that CAS rules limit the velocities of pistols and rifles as well as shotgun ammo for safety reasons. Soft lead is preferred. If you make your own then the angle at which they are mounted should be considered to prevent accidents but eye protection should be mandatory.