I've been using Moose Milk for many years---I still have a pint of water soluble oil left---but what in tarnation is Moose Snot? There was a recent product running around the Target Shooter crowd call Gun Snot---which turned out to be a fiasco. ::
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Moose "Snot"
- Thread starter Bob Riegl
- Start date
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Moose Snot is a homemade concoction derived from our very own Stumpkiller...
It goes as follows:
Stumpy's Moose Snot (by: Stumpkiller)
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
George Wyman
32 Cal.
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Mr. Musketman
What is the consistency of "moose snot" after it has cooled and set up? Is it like Wonderlube? How best to use it for pillow ticking strips cut at muzzle at loading? I recently switched to moose milk. What might I notice different using the moose snot?
What is the consistency of "moose snot" after it has cooled and set up? Is it like Wonderlube? How best to use it for pillow ticking strips cut at muzzle at loading? I recently switched to moose milk. What might I notice different using the moose snot?
It is quite a bit thicker than Bore Butter or Natural Lube 1000 Plus. Though, on you fingers, feels slipperier. Consistancy is stiff enough that it can be sliced into cubes that hold their shape. Somewhere between Kiwi wax shoe polish and Key Lime pie.
Moose milk is a liquid lube. Moose Snot (no relation to other "snots" as I developed this independently about two years ago) is a wax/grease style. To use, I lay a patch in a tin of it and drag it across the surface, scraping off the excess on the edge of the tin. I think many shooters load way too much on a patch, making a mess and leading to stringing and inconsistancy. I don't use enough that it shows as any more than a darkness from the oils on the patch with some lube in between the threads if you look carefully.
I pre-lube the patches and load from a ball block. Much less mess with the Moose Snot. If you don't shoot in two weeks it's best to re-lube the patch as it dries out some. I have used month old pre-lubed patches and they work, but the fouling needs to be wiped more often. By experimenting with the right quantity, you can get a patch that will allow continued shooting without wiping. I try for five shots without wiping.
Moose milk is a liquid lube. Moose Snot (no relation to other "snots" as I developed this independently about two years ago) is a wax/grease style. To use, I lay a patch in a tin of it and drag it across the surface, scraping off the excess on the edge of the tin. I think many shooters load way too much on a patch, making a mess and leading to stringing and inconsistancy. I don't use enough that it shows as any more than a darkness from the oils on the patch with some lube in between the threads if you look carefully.
I pre-lube the patches and load from a ball block. Much less mess with the Moose Snot. If you don't shoot in two weeks it's best to re-lube the patch as it dries out some. I have used month old pre-lubed patches and they work, but the fouling needs to be wiped more often. By experimenting with the right quantity, you can get a patch that will allow continued shooting without wiping. I try for five shots without wiping.
Work, yes. As well, no.
It will likely shoot as well, and in my rust tests the oilve oil was close to the castor (the Murphy's and beeswax were both better than either castor, olive oil, and MUCH better than WD-40!). Only way to find out if it will shoot in your rifle is to try it. Beeswax & olive oil is an old standard lube.
I never tried it in a moose milk type mix. I don't think it will go into suspension with either the water or the alcohol. Probably still work but you'll need to shake it up hard and often.
It will likely shoot as well, and in my rust tests the oilve oil was close to the castor (the Murphy's and beeswax were both better than either castor, olive oil, and MUCH better than WD-40!). Only way to find out if it will shoot in your rifle is to try it. Beeswax & olive oil is an old standard lube.
I never tried it in a moose milk type mix. I don't think it will go into suspension with either the water or the alcohol. Probably still work but you'll need to shake it up hard and often.
mike alexandre
45 Cal.
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With MS on my patches I'm able to shoot Tryon/Jeager/Bess 15 shots without cleaning (Proof House powder) am I using too much.
Not if your accuracy remains constant. I can go 15 with one of my rifles, but another starts to spread out after 5. Could be variations in the barrel smoothness or some other factor. I'm sure powder formulation is a major contributor. I use Goex.
Smoothbores can go on indefinately with relatively little lube (especially if wiped prior to first powder loading).
If it's workin it ain't a problem.
Smoothbores can go on indefinately with relatively little lube (especially if wiped prior to first powder loading).
If it's workin it ain't a problem.
Stump: Does MS work well as a lube for minies and other conicals? HAve you ever tried using it in a lubrisizer?
Yes. I've used it on R.E.A.L. and Maxi-Hunters. You can up the beeswax to make it stiffer (Moose Marrow :crackup
8:3:1 instead of 8:2:1 ratios.
Nope. Never tried it in a sizing die.
8:3:1 instead of 8:2:1 ratios.Nope. Never tried it in a sizing die.
RatherBHuntin
32 Cal.
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I mixed up some moose snot last year some time and have been using it for my .50 cal as a patch lube and as a general preservative on my CVA Bobcat, and it works great as a rust inhibitor. I had my guns in a safe inside a trailer for a month, and couple shotgun barrells had the blue rubbed off and began to show some surface rust. My sons new parkerized Wingmaster began to show a little brownish tint. The Bobcat, neither inside or out of it was there a speck of rust. Prior to going in the trailer I probably hadn't messed with it in at least 2-3 months, maybe longer. It's been inside the last two months or so, and when I shot it today, prior to the first round I swabbed the barrell, and it was as clean as a whistle. Very surprised and pleased. Thanks Stumpkiller.
I started this whole thing and one problem I am having is finding Castor Oil. At one time it was easily available in most pharmacies---but, now when you ask they give you a strange look and shake their heads. Any further ideas??? :hmm:
Guest
go to walmart.
SimonKenton
50 Cal.
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Pathmark carries castor oil (WHY do they call it that since "castor" is the French word for beaver?) in small bottles. How much is used per pint, quart or whatever? What's the formula you're using?
-Ray :front:
-Ray :front:
Somewhere betwixt $3.69 and $4.29 per 4 oz.
I get my beeswax from www.beeswaxfrombeekeepers.com
Good stuff.
I get my beeswax from www.beeswaxfrombeekeepers.com
Good stuff.
