Moose Snot?

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Chris Cade

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made some moose snot yesterday. wondering about skiming off the scum, how much scum is there? after i skimmed off on my batch i lost about half my snot.
 
Shouldn't be half no how. Did you wip it up good with a fork? You also don't want to heat it any more than it takes to melt the beeswax. If you cook it it froths up. It's the impurities in the beeswax that make the skum so it depends a lot on your source and how well they filter it.

I get mine from[url] www.beeswaxfrombeekeepers.com[/url] and have maybe one tea spoon for 8 oz of wax melted.

Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
 
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Mechslasher,
Wow,no way should there be that much to
skim off.Are you sure you are using pure bees
wax.I make mine in a double broiler(never over
direct heat). I get my beeswax from[url] www.stakich.com[/url].
snake-eyes :thumbsup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi,
Beg your pardon for asking but I can not get Murphy's Oil Soap down here in Argentina.
Is there anything that replaces Murphy's Oil Soap?
Can I use any detergent on soap?
Thanks
Martin
 
Colgate-Palmolive has a consumer's affairs office in Argentina, so I suspect they also sell the product there. Try calling this number in Argentina to ask:

Argentina: 0-810-444-0057

I hope that helps.
 
Thanks Paul.

I will call them tomorrow.
I found their site in Argentina but there is only one liquid soap for handwashing. Nothing like Murphys.

Thanks
Martin
 
Pine-sol will work. If you have a Gaucho supply store nearby good old liquid saddle soap will work. Any soft-soap will probably do. The less additives for odor or conditioners the better. Most dish or laundry detergents have additives that you don't want or need in the bore.
 
i tried another batch this weekend and it came out much better. had hardly any scum to scrap off. don't know what happened the first time i tried.
 
Hello all! Is there any else that "caster oil" may be called or marketed as. Currently I'm in a small town and have located the soap and just left a small bee keeper with some fresh bee's wax! The hope was to try to make it out here in the glorious woods of Arizona!
 
You should be able to find castor oil in any drugstore, as it is still sold for medicinal uses. If you can't find it, then go to any NAPA auto supply store, and look for ballistol, or water soluable oil. But the smallest container they market, as you are only going to use a small amount. I bought a pint of water soluable oil from a machine shop here in town almost 30 years ago, and still have most of it left.
 
What should the finished products consistency be like? Mine is like a cross between margerine and bacon grease at room temp? How should it be applied to patches melted in or just rubbed in? How much should be on the patch? Sheeesh didnt think I could ask so many stupid sounding questions guess a greenhorn needs to start somewhere. :confused:
 
wally world (aka walmart), and walgreens drug carries both castor oil and witch hazel.

if it is too thin, add more bees wax.

I melt mine when I use it and put my patches in stacks in it and then press the stacks between 2 boards to give me equal lube and flat patches.
 
I rub lube into a patch, then put another patch on top of it, then rub lube into that patch, then stack another patch, etc. When I have a column of patches, I stick them in the microwave, and zap them in 5 second bursts. I don't want to cook the lube, as it stinks to high heaven. What you want is a patch the has lube throughout the fabric, and from one edge to the other. If you put too much, you can always squeeze out the excess. With most of the beeswax based lubes, more is never going to hurt the gun. It might be a little more messy, but that is why you carry a small towel( old one) to wipe your hands at the range, and in the field. I won one of those fancy towels with the belt clip in a Duck's Unlimited raffle one year, the kind of thing you see Skeet shooter using, all the time, and some trap shooters in hot summer shooting conditions, and that goes to the range now, or is stuffed into my game bag when I am hunting. A couple of paper towels in a plastic bag does just as well, and is what I used before I won that towel.
 
Not diverge too much further, but the best range/shooting towels I have found are unused surgical laparotomy sponges -- highly absorbant, appropriately sized, and with a radiopaque loop for handling (or finding w/ X-ray if you lose it within a body cavity :haha: ... sorry... dumb joke :shake: I apologize)
 

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