Multitool: Thoughts?

[Smokey Plainsman]

What are your thoughts on this flintlock multitool by Larry Callahan? Supposedly it is based off a period original found in a shooting bag from then Appalachias. It can be found midway down this page:
http://www.bagmolds.com/UNZIPPED/htdocs/1.shtml

Has two screwdriver ends, a vent pick, and a nock for flint knapping. Looks real handy and if period would be neat to have. Anyone use one of these or have any thoughts on them?

 

[Stumpkiller]

Possible.

I hope that reamer is very soft. Square sides on a vent pick of steel will remove barrel steel and open up the vent.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Could be handy. But, methinks a bit pricey. Making something very similar could be done in a home shop with basic tools. BTW, using that, or any, steel thingy as a "reamer" will do just that....ream. And ruin yer touchhole. Using judiciously as a pick occasionally might be OK. I usually use a sharpened bone from an unfortunate male raccoon.

 

[SDSmlf]

The ”˜pick’ looks like what was called the awl blade on our ”˜multi tool’ when I was in Scouts, but we didn’t know any better so we called it pocket knife, not a multitool. We used the awl to poke holes in leather or anything else that need a hole opened up in it.

The tool may have been found in a shooting bag from the Appalachians, but I just don’t see it being used as a vent pick.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I have one. The tip is soft steel. The turn screw blades are tapered to better fit the screw slots on my Brown Bess. The notch works great as a nibbler to restore the edge of dull flint.

 

[SDSmlf]

Ok, but still don’t like the way it increases in size. I want something straight that won’t open touch hole size. I would just consider copper wire, an annealed piece of coat hanger, a feather or a sharpened bone to be better choices.

 

[Elnathan]

The original awl/pick might have been used to pressure-flake the flint to sharpen it - I've seen pictures of a bunch of original tools that have some sort of pointy end on them, and while they are usually interpreted as a vent pick I think that sharpening the flint is a better explanation. The notch is something not found on the original, if I'm reading the page right.

 

[nhmoose]

Don't jam it in and turn it will not ream it unless you make it do so.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Don't jam it in and turn it will not ream it unless you make it do so.

:applause:

Absolutely correct, common sense... Which unfortunately is lacking in today's society.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Thanks, pards! Think I’ll pick one up. Sure looks handy for servicing the cock and fixing up flints.

 

[Black Hand]

The original awl/pick might have been used to pressure-flake the flint to sharpen it - I've seen pictures of a bunch of original tools that have some sort of pointy end on them, and while they are usually interpreted as a vent pick I think that sharpening the flint is a better explanation.

From someone that has done flint-knapping, that pointy thing is too skinny, pointy and flimsy to flake a flint...

 

[Black Hand]

It might work for making notches for attaching a flint arrowhead to a shaft.

 

[Elnathan]

The original awl/pick might have been used to pressure-flake the flint to sharpen it - I've seen pictures of a bunch of original tools that have some sort of pointy end on them, and while they are usually interpreted as a vent pick I think that sharpening the flint is a better explanation.

From someone that has done flint-knapping, that pointy thing is too skinny, pointy and flimsy to flake a flint...

I've never done any knapping except some hammering to sharpen a gun-flint, so I'll have to take your word for it.

What would be proper size for a pressure-flaking tool? I want to try making gun-hammer at some point, and shape the end of the handle for pressure-flaking.

 

[Black Hand]

A piece of antler tine is excellent for flaking flint. A blunted piece of copper ground wire set in a handle works well too. Both copper and antler have grab, while steel will tend to slide and/or crush your edge. I've used both to flake glass, flint and obsidian.

You'll need to adjust the end shape of the copper or antler according to what you are trying to do. I'd suggest watching a few videos. Whatever you do, wear goggles...

 

[Gene L]

I think the notch is for touching up the flint.

 

[Black Hand]

I think the notch is for touching up the flint.

I just use the spine of my knife...

 

[Don Steele]

Exactly so Gene. When I go mine, Tom showed me how to use that notch to "nibble" the edge of a flint while still in the lock. Works very well for that purpose, but I will caution that like with most hand tools... there is a "technique" to it that must be learned or you nibble off too much of your rock. :redface:

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

So you can nibble it to restore the edge for more shots?

 

[Stumpkiller]

Oh yes. A knife spine, the heel of the frizzen, a 90° notch in a turnscrew (never tried a slot).

All add many shots to the life of a flint when used properly. You have to put pressure on just the forward 1/32" of the edge of the flint and it will spall off a fresh edge.

 

[Don Steele]

Yup...Like Stumpy said though...whatever tool you use, you apply pressure to the very most forward portion of the edge. With Tom's tool, if you put the notch all the way back "into" the rock, you will nibble off too much and create a significant notch in your flint. :nono: As I mentioned in my earlier response...like any hand tool, there is a technique that must be mastered to achieve optimum results.
Once you learn how to do it, Tom's tool will definitely allow you to improve/restore a flint with little difficulty which can be very helpful in the middle of an extended event when you're away from a shooting bench. :thumbsup: