• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

My Hawken Rifle

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Hawken Dan

36 Cal.
Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
63
Reaction score
0
Hi all. I just got my Green Mountain 36" barrel today for my custom .58 cal fullstock flint hawken I am building. I will post pics as I go.
 
I am finishing one right now. An unused .58 1 x 36" Green River Barrel, Manton and Ashmore flintlock. Neill Fields, who worked at the Green River Rifle Works, advised me to use a flint tang rather than a hooked breech and tang. (Track of Wolf part Plug FHG-16-3 instead of Plug-FH-16-3) . The advantage is that a flash hole liner can be installed directly into the side of the barrel ahead of the plug thus reducing weight (of the hooked breech), shortening the barrel about 7/8", increasing the useable bore length and simplifying cleaning.

Your threaded breech plug hole on the Green Mtn barrel is 3/4" if I remember right. I have cut half a dozen of them off (with a hacksaw) to fit plugs. The hooked breech has a half inch journal so you would need to also. I wanted to leave the GRRW .58 1-60 stamp on the back of my barrel, but it also had a 3/4" deep hole. So I soldered a piece of steel on the flint plug and fitted it to bottom. Not all GRRW barrels were stamped, and I could index to any flat.

In inletting the tang, I soldered it to the plug and left it that way. When I drilled for the 3/8" White Lightning liner yesterday, I pulled the plug and the liner hole cut into the face of the breech plug. I had to do this to position the lock bolt to fasten the lock. Then it was a matter of cutting the liner to length and cutting a pie-shaped notch from the center of the plug face into the liner hole. This is a lot of fitting, but all because I didn't cut that durned barrel to a 1/2" plug. In a class I took in "Antique Custom Riflesmithing" taught by Doug Roberts, shop foreman, at the GRRW in 1978, he taught us to notch the plug face back to the powder drum on a Leman rifle I built. It seems now this might have been necessary because the durned plug was too long.

The lock bolt would have to be removed to remove the barrel, but I don't plan to do that so fitted it with pins instead of keys, as Neill did on one he built. Other than the plug, there was no special building problems.
 
Wow you are Doing allot already..way to go :thumbsup:
My barrel was supposed to be stamped but they forgot..... I have the front and rear sight dovetail cut and the 3 lugs on the bottom already inplace.The breech is on too. Hopefully I can get a pic in this weekend :grin: Thanks for the info
on the lock.

Daniel
 
Good. We all look forward to your photos. By the way, that was Greg Roberts, not Doug. He was somebody else. After fitting my flash hole liner, which cut back into the breech plug threads, I had to cut that bit of flash hole liner to clear the B.P. threads. In final fitting, I ran a 3/4 x 18 bottoming tap in to clean up for final fitting of the breech plug. I hope you do better than I did.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top