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My Hawkins Build Kit

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0321jarhead

32 Cal.
Joined
Aug 19, 2011
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Okay, here I go. I just got my build kit the other day and everything looks good. As this being my first build, there are some tools I will be needing. Most of which I already have. One thing I am going to need is a "vise pad" for when I do some draw filing on the barrel. I have a Wilton vise that is 3 1/2" wide. I have looked in my Brownell's catalog and they have several vise pads. I scratch my head and wonder what vise pad would be best for this barrel. What have you guys used?
 
I mounted .040 sheet brass on the jaws of my vise. So far it works great an has never put one single scratch on my metal parts. :thumbsup:
 
Take a look at your local shoe maker's shop. Pick up some left over scrap Vibram sole rubber, not the lugged pattern stuff. Attach it to the vice jaws. Or use some sole leather. When it gets worn, replace it.
 
For the stock work & generally holding the rifle, just pad them with Leather. One of mine has teflon then leather, the other a removable leather saddle.

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On this one if I need the steel jaws, I just disconnect the rubber band on the front & flip the leather back.

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But when it comes to clamping the barrel for removing the Breechplugs, sheet brass on the jaws (can get at hobby shop) work great. You need something to protect the barrel, yet good and solid. These shims were cut off a old door kick plate & hammer formed to fit over the jaws & work great.

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Another thing I will mention that will make a BIG difference, get the vice out over the floor, not back on the bench. If it is not out over the floor, you can't mount things vertical in it as the barrel or stock will hit the bench. Simply lag bolt a piece of 2x4 vertically to the front of the bench & then bring the vice out & then the barrel will mount vertically, as will stock when installing the buttplate, etc. Makes a BIG difference & allot more useful for many things.

Keith Lisle
 
For wood parts I use leather. For metal parts I use copper flashing jaws. The copper is a little softer than brass and copper flashing is available at most hardware stores and all roofing companies. (The roofing company will probable have some trimmings you can get for scrap price. )Aluminum flashing will also work and is the most readily available. :idunno:
 
I pretty much have a good idea guys. Improvise, adjust, adapt and apply. I can do that.
 
Done so much for so long with so little we can do almost anything with almost nothing? :thumbsup:
 
Okay folks, I'm almost done building this puppy. The question is this. I have inserted the wedges and it takes a little bit of force. Actually a couple of taps with my nylon mallot. I have to remoce them the same way. I am also inserting the wedges from right to left. Is that a normal thing? Or should I just be able to push all the way through by hand? I got to admit, it sure looks sweet.
 
You should be able to insert them with firm thumb pressure. Hold the barrel in the channel tightly and look through the wedge channels and see if they line up nicely. Might take a little filing here and there.
 
I think many of the originals went from left to right, facing the muzzle, but they go both ways. The keys should not be that tight. Smoke things up and see where the rubs are.
 
Buttstock against your shoulder, RH rifle, wedges go in from the Left side. This way your hand is against the head of the wedgepin & on the forestock is always pushing them into the rifle.

Keith Lisle
 
Done that. The wedge does not go all the way through. About 1/16" short before the esc.(however its spelled)on the one closest to me.I have to squeeze really hard with the end of the stock and barrel then tap the wedges into place. Its like the stock is warped. The wedges go in perfect without the barrel. Everything else fits like a glove. I'm about to send this back. I'm so disappointed and discouraged.
 
0321jarhead said:
I'm about to send this back. I'm so disappointed and discouraged.

Heck no! As herb sezz, they can be adjusted. If too short, get some longer ones from TOW or wherever and shorten those to suit. I'd rather have keys that are too tight and can be relieved than ones that are too loose and need tightening.

Sounds as though you're riding tall in the saddle once you do a little fiddling with the keys. I sure wouldn't be sending it back if "everything else fits like a glove."
 
No...I'm not gonna send it back. I did some fiddlen with it and made a phone call. One wedge is a tad short. They (Gun Works) will send me the correct one. Joe says its likely a factory error.
 
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