My unknown rifle journey

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As the old saying goes, "It's never that easy." A 6mm-0.75mm is almost the same thread pitch as the 1/4-28 UNC. The 0.75 thread pitch is 29 threads per inch. It will start but not seat and will be loose in the threads. The 1.00mm thread pitch is 25 threads per inch. If one does seat a 6-0.75 in a 1/4-28, it will eventually get blown out. It's far better to verify than rely on my posting on the Forum.

The Allen/Uberti Hawken was built to US specs originally and likely had US standard threads. Pedersoli continued with the 1/4-28 nipples after it acquired the Uberti Hawken.

However, it's best to check. If your local hardware store is leery of someone bringing in a gun barrel, you can buy single bolts of the three standard nipple threads. Get a 6-0.75, 6-1.00 and 1/4-28 machine screw and see which one is the correct fit.
I originally had intentions of doing just that but I stubbornly got my necklace of thread checkers to give me what I found. Now that I have the barrel off it will be easier to do, which I will. I’ll let you all know what I find then. Working on inlaying the trigger plate now. It’s taking a lot of modifications to both the metal and the wood, but I’m getting there. Been at it all morning and I’m almost satisfied.
 
Getting there
 

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This is interesting. I thought I knew what the threads were on mine.
I've been using the nipple that was in it when I bought it, because, well, it just works.
I also have an assortment of nipples from various TC Renegades I've owned over the years which are all 1/4-28.
I have test threaded every one of these TC nipples in my Santa Fe and they all go in and fit just like the one it came with.
If a 1/4-28 is not supposed to thread into a 6-1.0 then perhaps at sometime mine was re-tapped to 1/4-28 for some reason?
I’ll be dammed. It is 1/4-28.
Anyone need several M6-1.0 threaded nipples?
Atleast my paranoia wasn’t in vain, Ha!
 
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I don’t know if I’m burning out or just being realistic but I think I’m going to call this good.
I'm kinda late to this discussion but here's what I think. To finish fit the butt plate you need to get some inletting black. Or, soot up the butt plate with a smoky oil lamp. Some use lipstick. Coat the forward edge of the butt plate and the other mating surfaces. Install the plate, then remove. Lightly scrape the areas where the inletting black transferred to the wood. Then repeat the process.

For the tang, rather than filing it down as a first step, I'd have carefully bent it to curve more with the shape of the wood.
 
I'm kinda late to this discussion but here's what I think. To finish fit the butt plate you need to get some inletting black. Or, soot up the butt plate with a smoky oil lamp. Some use lipstick. Coat the forward edge of the butt plate and the other mating surfaces. Install the plate, then remove. Lightly scrape the areas where the inletting black transferred to the wood. Then repeat the process.

For the tang, rather than filing it down as a first step, I'd have carefully bent it to curve more with the shape of the wood.
Dude- I like your first suggestion. I’m going to try that and see if I can improve on what I have so far. If nothing else, I am curious what it will show.
 
I agree with Dude, get some inletting black or red lipstick and fit the buttplate properly. Shouldn't take more than an hour. On the front sight, I've made many with a piece of brass stock for the base, a 3 corner file with a safe side ground in, a silver quarter, and some silver solder.
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I don’t know if I’m burning out or just being realistic but I think I’m going to call this good.
That looks fine to me, a generous radius all the way around the but plate edge that meets the shoulder and your golden.
Notice the groove on the inner bottom edge of the but plate, that is where the back edge of the toe plate is supposed to fit into it.
This area was all wonky on mine, I ended having up to file a new groove in mine for the toe plate to fit after re-fitting the but plate.
It's still not perfect as I didn't get the angle of the new groove and the bevel on the end of the toe plate to exactly fit together right but best I could do with hand files.
 

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That looks fine to me, a generous radius all the way around the but plate edge that meets the shoulder and your golden.
Notice the groove on the inner bottom edge of the but plate, that is where the back edge of the toe plate is supposed to fit into it.
This area was all wonky on mine, I ended having to file a new groove in mine for the toe plate to fit after re-fitting the but plate.
It's still not perfect as I didn't get the angle of the new groove and the bevel on the end of the toe plate to exactly fit together right but best I could do with hand files.
Looks good to me also. That is a funcky little part. With mine, it seems that little plate is upside down. I swear it would fit better with the angle flipped.
Yup, had to go look at that again. Looking at how your plate fits, mine was definitely countersunk on the wrong side. Oye…
 
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Looks good to me also. That is a funcky little part. With mine, it seems that little plate is upside down. I swear it would fit better with the angle flipped.
Yeah, I think the idea is for the end of the toe plate to be captured in the groove of the but plate so it can't flex outward thus entrapping the wood in the whole toe area of the stock. After re-fitting my but plate, the toe plate groove was a good 1/4" past the end of the stock and had to be re-done.
I'm not even sure if this is something that was done on original Hawkens or is even necessary.
 
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Yeah, I think the idea is for the end of the toe plate to be captured in the groove of the but plate so it can't flex outward thus entrapping the wood in the whole toe area of the stock. After re-fitting my but plate, the toe plate groove was a good 1/4" past the end of the stock and had to be re-done.
I'm not even sure if this is something that was done on original Hawkens or is even necessary.
I agree with the not sure it’s even necessary.
Sending pics of upside down ooops
 

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