Need help with a couple things ...

[Blackfoot]

I picked up what I think is a Lyman GRP .54 cap lock today but has a couple issues, and now I just added another one to the list.

The barrel is loaded and ball is stuck (came this way), I have tried a puller but it just pulls out of the bullet. I think that I might use a grease zerk and put it into the nipple threads and pump the load out unless you have a better Idea...

Now to what I just did to the problem: while the ram rod was screwed into the bullet with the ball puller on it I had the bright idea to put the ram rod into the vise and hang the barrel below the vise, then I tapped the barrel hoping to start the bullet loose, well that was the wrong thing to do as I broke off the 3 screws that hold the under rib on the barrel and the under rib fell to the floor (what was I thinking). now I need to take the barrel to a machine shop to have them get the rest of the screws out of the barrel.

Question: What size thread is the nipple? need that information to get a grease zerk and a new nipple?

2) Is it a bad idea to try and shoot the load out of the barrel? I have no idea what is in the barrel except that the bullet at the end of the charge is lead.


On a good note: I picked this GPR up for almost nothing, Its an old one but seems very well fitted and in good shape.

BTW there are no Identification markings on the barrel except for "black powder only" and .54 cal. There is a serial # on it and is 4 digits, also the tang is marked the same serial number where the barrel hooks into it. Pretty sure it is a GPR. Can post pictures of later.

 

[roboskittle]

Do you own a drill? If so you should have no problems getting the rest of the 3 screws out with no problem. Find a drill bit smaller than what they are and drill into them a little bit. I would than take a very small phillips head screwdriver and hammer it into the scew and try to twist them out. You may even be able to slot the rest of the scew and use a flat head.

I think you have the right idea to use the grease fitting to push that round out. Slap some WD-40 down the pipe to get things lubed to help eat up whatever is holding the round in the barrel. I have no idea what size your nipple is so ill let some one else chime in with that.

Good luck, Jeremiah.

 

[necchi]

Are ya anywhere near St.Cloud? I'll come help ya.

 

[Blackfoot]

I live south a bit between Owatonna and Albert Lea.

I will try the drill and screw driver method and let you know how it goes.

Thanks

 

[roboskittle]

Just please becareful not to slip and smack the barrel.

 

[Blackfoot]

Looking at this rifle It must be early GRP if it is one, It has a metal nose cap and a metal entry pipe fitted in.
Under the barrel someone stamped their name DOC HOEL then a long space and then " For Blacky Fox".
I am assuming it maybe a KIT or a custom built rifle.

Ill post some pictures this weekend (deer Hunting)as I am kind of busy on weekend.

 

[necchi]

Be sure to use a new/sharp bit in the drill.
I tried drilling a hardened screw like that a month ago, got off center and botched the job.
Took it to my friend in maintenace at work,,he got it out, but I got a good talking too about leaving things alone :nono: :redface: :redface:

 

[54ball]

Try blowing that load out with compressed air. A blower with the pointed rubber tip placed in the hole after the nipple is removed has served me very well. Keep in mind that that ball or balls could come out of the barrel at lethal force.
Shooting it out is not an option because you do not know if it is triple loaded or even loaded with smokeless which would be a disaster.
After the barrel is clear take it to a gunsmith or a good machine shop to have them remove the screws.

 

[bobman]

I second the gun smith or machine shop to get the screws out thats a very easy thing to do with the right tools and know how its also a real easy to botch if you dont

 

[mbw907]

The greasegun trick will work when compressed air will not. And it is safer because you will have control of how fast the stuck projectile comes out of the barrel.I have used this grease method several times and keep grease fittings that have the same thread as most of my nipples in my various rifles.There is something about pressurizing grease that will move anything! I use the same grease trick to remove pilot bushings from crankshaft ends. Good luck and remember safety first. :wink:

 

[necchi]

oh, no-one did say; if it's a lyman the nip is metric 6 x .75mm
the other metric common is for the Trad/CVA and is 6 x 1mm

1st # is diameter the 2nd is thread pitch

 

[robtattoo]

'kay. I'm intrigued.....

Howd' you get all the grease out, once the ball & charge are removed? It must take hours to get it all cleaned up!

 

[bwhoffman]

brake cleaner and lots of patches!

 

[R.M.]

If you clean that barrel real good before you try blowing it out, it'll help. Even if you resort to the grease fitting, it will probably only take a bit to get the ball moving, then air or CO2 will be able to move it the rest of the way much easier.

 

[paulvallandigham]

YOu can push most of it out with a cleaning jag, and patch, driving it out the flash hole and out the larger hole that is threaded for your nipple. Then you flush it with alcohol, or use any grease cutting fluid of your choice, and lots of patches to get the rest out. It is going to take some work, but its not that difficult. :surrender: :thumbsup:

 

[Blackfoot]

What is a Lymans barrel size?
This has a full 1" across the flats and is 32" long.
There are some proof stamps on the barrel and 1 on the breach plug but no manufacture name.

 

[Mulebrain]

In a situation like this,further investigation is warranted. I would pull the nipple, and try to get some of the powder out, to determine what type of powder it is. You can use the ramrod, to determine the amount of powder charge.

If it's black powder and a reasonable charge, I would just shoot it out!

 

[paulvallandigham]

What caliber? What model gun? What year was the gun sold? Most Lyman rifles have been made by "Investment Arms", and are so marked, in recent years, but go back far enough and the barrel could be sourced from anywhere.

I am suspecting that the barrel may be an aftermarket barrel as you say it has no markings as to maker. Does Lyman appear on the top left flat?? The Factory guns often have serial numbers on them, also. If they aren't there, that would be another indicator that this is not a factory made barrel.

 

[Blackfoot]

The barrel, breach plug, and tang all have the same 4 digit serial #.
Its a .54 cal cap lock with a 32" barrel that is 1" across the flats.

Not sure of its age as the guy I just bought it from just bought it at an auction but it is OLD and seems to be really well made (fit + finish), I will get some pictures of it and close ups of the markings on the barrel.
The tang is very long (much longer than GPR's that I see pictures of and the pipe inlet has a iron inlet and iron nose cap.

 

[cowpoke1955]

The entry pipe and nose cap on the GPRs are two piece and made of steel. The barrels on the GPR .50 and .54 are 15/16" across the flats. R.M. mentioned a CO2 discharger Here is one from Cabela's: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/...h/search-box.jsp.form1&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1 . Good luck :thumbsup: