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Need info on Moore London 10 ga percussion

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kytimberman

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I just acquired an old 10 ga percussion double, it is marked "Moore - London" on the barrel, and "Moore" on the side of the locks. The barrels look to be in very good shape(they are Damascus). I cleaned it thoroughly and loaded it with 90 gr of 2F and 1 1/8 of 8's to pattern it. The right barrel seemed fairly tight with 10ga wads, but the left was noticeably larger, and while the right barrel went off as expected, and patterned well at 25 yds, the left load shifted and the over shot card moved allowing the shot to roll out. I'd like any info y'all can give me on this gun, especially the meaning of the proof marks, age, value. I'm thinking I should try some 9 ga wads in it. Any info or insight is much appreciated. I've got the BP bug pretty bad and am thrilled with this fine old gun. The locks work flawlessly and the fit and finish on the gun is awesome- and if I'm not mistaken, the ramrod is made of Ebony! It also has a neat tip on it that unscrews to reveal a patch/ball puller! Makes my CVA 12 double look like scrap metal. Thanks to all- pics attached.
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Well I can't seem to edit my original but I think vIe got the picture posting figured out:
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Again, any info on the proof marks, value, or anything else appreciated.
 
I have a book on British proof marks, but I am afraid that it is more on military weapons than civilian. However, the formats are pretty similar. The proof with the crown with crossed lances with the initials. The shape of the crown indicates which monarch was on the throne when manufactured, in this case Victoria (1837-1901) The initials indicate which factory made it. Others look like acceptance marks and the BP being that it passed the British pressure proof.

Did a little more digging in the book. Seems the proof was changed from crossed scepters like you have to crossed flags in 1850. Reason on 2 similar proofs is one was for the barrels and the 2nd when mated to the action, which you don't have, but this was done when breech loaders were introduced.
 
Looks like you have the pure quill there, and a very nice one to boot. Solve your wad issues by ordering some 9 or even 8-gauge over shot wads from Circle Fly.
The great ML shotgun guru V.M. Starr used and loved his Wm. Moore percussion double.
Here is a link to the "Starr Bible" from our own Spence's fine Web site.
http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/starr.html
 
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Hi!

The proof marks are Birmingham, which is probably because Moore was a Birmingham maker who moved to London, or opened a London shop. The V with crossed swords is the view mark (or visual inspection) and the Crown with crossed swords in the final proof. PM me if you would like a brief history of the firm (or firms).

The nine gauge wads suggest that the bores have been honed. That's not bad, but keep in mind that you should use some discretion, and not overload the gun. It is, after all, about 150 years old.

I have a Moore and Harris (they were partners at one point). It has Birmingham on the barrels, and London proof marks. Go figure. I shoot it regularly, and thoroughly enjoy it. They are nice, well made, guns. I had a hammer ear break off, but found it and was able to get it repaired very nicely.

Best of luck to you.
 
One of the old gurus of BP shotgunning was V. M. Starr, and his personal gun was a Wm. Moore. Here's what he said about them.

"Wm. Moore made lots of M-L guns that were shipped to this country and I have yet to see a genuine Moore that had not at one time been a good one. Altho I have seen some very fine Moores, most of them that come to my shop are rather plain guns made to sell at a moderate price and give good service over a long period of time, which they surely have done. My Sue Betsy is such a gun and has seen 20 years of hard service since I have had it and how much before there is no way of telling. All that I have done in the way of repairs is to rebore the barrels and put in new nipples. I expect to use it as long as I need a gun and then pass it on to the next generation."

"As before mentioned my favorite shotgun is my old Sue Betsy, an 11 bore Wm. Moore that weighs about 9 pounds and full choke in both barrels, choked too close, in fact for most shooting but I just don't have the heart to monkey with those fine patterns that have served me so well for so long.

For heavy work on ducks I use 4 1/2 drs. Fg and 1 1/2-oz. 4, 5 or 6 shot. I like the No. 6 the best because they will kill ducks just as far as the pattern will hit them and are better than the heavier shot when it comes to killing cripples on the water and killing cripples is very important to every hunter that is worthy of the name. I only use No. 4 when there is a good chance that a goose will wander by and give me a chance at him or when I am out of smaller shot.

From that load for heavy work I load on down as low as 3 drs. and 1 oz. of shot, depending on the kind of game I'm after and I have killed a heap of cottontails and pheasants with the old gun with 2 1/2 drs. and 1 oz. of No. 7 1/2 shot."

Spence
 
Birmingham proof and view marks. A provisional proof mark which means he wanted to know it was a good barrel before he did all that filing :grin:

I have a W Moore pigeon gun and the lock engraving is practically identical, but you have a fancier - best not say cock - hammer :thumbsup:
 
Thanks to all for the information. I've got 9 ga wads and cards coming from Track, and will start out with a little lower charge. I think that old gun's found a happy home.
 
I just bought a 10 gauge double, no-name, Belgian, German Silver mounts, rather crudely converted to take top hat musket caps. It was love at first lift, durned thing must weigh 12 or 14 pounds.

I reckon a 10 gauge double is a goose gun and it is okay to stoke it up a bit :thumbsup:
 

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