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Need to put a scope on my Lyman GPR

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Valley Forge

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I have had a Lyman GPR for about 5 months and have been able to figure out how to shoot it reliably. Lyman GPR, .50 caliber, flintlock, left handed. I am almost through my first box of 100 round balls, and it is becoming clear that I just can't use the iron sights. I have a lifelong visual problem and I can not use iron sights on any of my rifles. All of my lever rifles have scopes, for example. I have a Japanese 7.7 mm Arisaka that my grandfather brought back from WW2 and I had to mount a scope on that, too or I would never be able to fire it. I'm not running a firearms museum, and i like to be able to shoot the rifles that I own. When I bought the GPR, I had Dixon's replace the front sight with a red fiber optic sight, and that helps, but I can only shoot at targets at about 50 feet, or I just can not see the sights and target well enough to hit an 8 1/2 x 11 inch piece of target paper. I was shooting yesterday at about 20 yards (60 feet) and realized that if I tried to go to 25 yards, I'd really be having trouble. The only way that I can use iron sights at 25 yards is if I am very selective about the appearance of the target. I need a black target paper with a white center (try to go find that somewhere! I have to make my own). HC, PC is not an issue for me. :surrender:

Also, I am sure someone will suggest a small peep sight to take advantage of the pin hole camera "lens" effect, but that does not work for my visual problem. So, I need to mount a scope on this rifle somehow or it goes into the closet to never be fired again. It is too frustrating to limit myself to 50 feet when I would be able to shoot at 100 yards with a 4x scope. :idunno:

Do you know of anyone who has done this before? I like flintlock rifles, and like shooting this GPR, but I am now at the point where I'd like some accuracy on target, and I just can not do it with the iron sights. I am thinking of getting one of the cantilever scope mounts that Henry Repeating Rifles sells for their octagon barrel lever rifles.
scope-bigboy.jpg


I would need a gunsmith to drill & tap the GPR barrel to accept this mount. I still need to solve the issue of having to remove the scope for cleaning the rifle each time I shoot it.

I've seen mention of a wedge that is drilled/tapped that can go into the dovetail currently holding the rear sight. Has anyone ever seen that? I've also heard that Weaver sells a flat-bottom scope base that can get screwed down to an octagon barrel. Has anyone ever seen that?

Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
Valley Forge,
I "may" have an option for you. Years ago there were scope mount bases made for ML's that do not require drilling and tapping, they drop over the top of the barrel and are attached to the side flats and they take standard Weaver scope rings. I have 2 of these bases, one for a 7/8 barrel and 1 for a 1" barrel, and a Simmons long eye relief scope. The long eye relief allows the scope to be mounted far enough out on the barrel that it does not interfere with the hammer or get burned from the cap, or flint. I mounted one on a TC Renegade for a friend and he shot it for years without any problems. I can send some pictures to see if you have an interest.
Mark
 
Just use the flat base mount you are talking about. No need to take the scope off to clean. A fixed power scope will work better than a variable as the zoom part will hold used powder and get nasty. I would get a lower price good scope not a top of the line as it will get ugly looking prob sooner than latter. :) Larry
 
Years ago used to see people drilling/tapping T/Cs and other straight oct barrels for scopes. Not hard to do or get done just need a flat base, usually weaver mounts. Any of the straight well made low power scopes should work fine. Swift makes a sweet 2-7 x 40 that works great on muzzleloaders.
 
First let me say this; I'm not trying to pick on you or say you're wrong or anything else bad, just trying to help. :v

I have heard the "I have a vision problem that makes a scope necessary" statement many times and I have asked many times just what that problem is. I have never got a straight answer yet. :idunno: If you can tell me the name of the problem I would appreciate it.

The problem as I see it is not knowing, or not using the proper technique with open sights.
The first thing to do is accept the fact that the human eye can not focus on more than one distance at a time! Then you need to learn to focus on the front sight, concentrate, and follow thru.
My eyes are pretty bad (near-sighted, astigmatism, should use bi-focals...). I usually like a kinda thick front blade that I can see easy. The rear sight notch needs to be wide enough that plenty of light can get between the sides and the front blade too.
Focus on that front blade! Set it right in the middle and aligned with the top of the fuzzy looking rear sight. Hold that picture right on the fuzzy looking target and fire. :thumbsup:
Once you accept that only one thing can be clear at a time and stop moving your focus between all 3 distances, your groups will tighten up.

There's my 2 cents worth. Use it or spend it on a scope. :haha:

BTW, it has been my experience that the fixed primitive rear sight for the GPR gives a much better sight picture. Might not work with the fiber front tho.
 
I see no problem putting whatever scope you may like on your gun. Any competent gunsmith should be able to mount a scope for you. You can even get quick detachable mounts if you want.

That out of the way, no one is as good a shot with iron sights as someone with a scope.
I agree with Jethreo224. You may want to just alter your technique a little. I don't do competitive target shooting. I just shoot for fun and hunting. I stopped filing and “sighting in” and just use sight pictures. Shoot a lot and you will be surprised how good you can become just learning how your gun behaves.

But it is your gun and you need to do as you see fit.
 
I am also left handed, with poor eyesight( near-sighted, astigmatism). I have tried a variety of scopes on rifles.

You might want to consider a "Scout " scope with a longer eye relief. It can sit further out on the barrel so it doesn't interfere with, or be affected adversely by the hammer and nipple( or flashpan). The mount puts the scope Lower to the bore, so you don't have to change your cheek mount on the comb of the stock as much. And, being further out, its easier on your eye to focus on the scope's crosshairs. I have a 3X scope on a bolt action Mauser built in 1900, and with that scope, I can easily find my target, and shoot very small groups at 100 yds.

My twin brother has been having "eye" troubles with his Chunk gun, and has recently obtained NEW glasses, with the focus point adjust to where his eye centers his glasses when he is looking down the barrel- not reading a book! He also uses a Merit Optics "Peep" sight, that sticks to the lens of his glasses, and has an adjustable "peep", so that you can close it in bright light, or open it in poor light. That and using a wider Notch in his rear sight has fixed the problems for him. He found the widening of the notch in his rear sight to be the Most help, allowing him to look through it and focus on his FRONT SIGHT.

As for targets with white centers, they are available( Google "targets"), Or, you can make your own by cutting a circular disk out of white paper and stapling or gluing it to a round Black bullseye.

Once you have the size "white" circle you need, you can make dry photocopies of the new target in any quantity you want, or go really happy, and have a print shop print up 500 or so. The higher the volume ordered, the cheaper they are per piece. My brother prints up copies of the NMLRA postal match target, printed annually in Muzzle Blasts, and uses them for his monthly club BP shooting programs. It is a solid black bull, but it would take no trouble at all to tape or glue a white center on those targets, and copy them. :hmm: :surrender: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
I appreciate that you are not HC/PC ... but then why shoot a flintlock?

Generally, aging reduces the ability to sharply focus at short distance (thus "reading glasses"), and this involves clearly seeing the rear sight. If your vision limitations are that you cannot clearly see (whatever that may mean) the rear and front sights, then by all means try a 'scope. Some say, and it is my personal experience, one can tolerate some blurring of the rear sight and the target, as long as the front sight is crisp and clear.

Sights using an rear aperture and a front with a post, again some say, can resolve about 1 MOA, and a 'scope can resolve about 1/magnification, so a 4X scope can resolve 1/4 MOA. This is in the noise level of variables contributing to a flintlock round-to-round dispersion, but if a 'scope helps you see the target, go for it!

FWIW, I have 20/20 uncorrected distance vision, but need reading glasses for close-up work. I found that 1 to 1.25 diopter spectacles are helpful, providing about 95% sharpness vs. no correction at hunting distances of 25 to 75 yards, shooting blade front and rear notch or semi-buckhorn. The front sight is much crisper.

Use the good advice and many ways from the Forum on attaching a 'scope to a flinter.

Best of luck to you.
 
Valley Forge, I had a .50 TC New Englander with a 2X Pistol Scope mounted about where the regular rear sights would be. The mount used the two original TC holes plus one drilled and tapped hole. It worked great for me. It was very quick on target acquisition and looked kinda cool.
 
some where @ home I have a TC mount for a 1" barrel came off a TC 54 cal flinter,it just clamps around the barrel flats and causes no damage to the rifle.When I boughtthe rifle tis was one of my concerns,but when I took it off all was was well,if you think you could use it it's yours for the cost of shipping in a small flat rate box (i'll need to find the darn thing first)It does fit weaver style rings
 
Thanks to all for your thoughts and suggestions. Also, thanks to the guys who have kindly offered me the clamp-on mounts. I will probably get the Weaver octagon barrel (flat) mounts and have the barrel drilled/tapped. I will probably get the Leatherwood 2-7x scout scope. SWFA has it for about $115, less than half the cost of the Burris 2.75x scout scope that I currently have on my grandfather’s Japanese Arisaka. I don’t work for Burris, and I am not being paid to say this, but I will tell you that those Burris scopes are sweet. They are really better quality than the company realizes, and they should charge twice as much for their scopes. I have Burris scopes on almost all of my rifles. The Leatherwood scope will be less expensive, and I will not worry as much about it getting messed up as I would with a Burris scope, but I can always switch at another time to get a Burris if I stick with this.

Anyway, after looking into this and using rulers and yardsticks and holding the Lyman GPR up to my shoulder over and over again I have concluded that a scout scope and mount is the only way to go. It will look odd, that’s for sure, but it should work for me. You guys are probably right about the variable scope getting gunked up with powder debris, but I will probably sight it in at either 5x or 6x (at 100 yards) and just leave it like that. Then I can shoot at the 50 or 100 yard rifle ranges at my club.

I kind of went back and forth in my mind about replying specifically to the points raised by Jethro224. I definitely appreciate the time he took to type out his reply, and I don’t doubt or dispute his wisdom, but the name and details of my vision problem are my business and no one else’s. It probably IS fine to just sum it up the way I did by saying I have a lifelong visual problem. However, I am sure he was being genuine and I will take his post at face value and just go ahead and tell you more than you probably ever wanted to know about My Vision. Here goes:

Well, I am about 45 and have been shooting rifles since I was 8. I have something called congenital nystagmus and you can Google search that for more info, if you want it. I have low vision at all distances. This is NOT near-sighted and it is NOT far-sighted. I have low vision at all distances, near, intermediate, and far. I need a magnifier glass to read a map, a telephone book or a newspaper. I can read regualr books without a magnifier glass, but I often use one anyway because it is easier and more comfortable. For distance, I get by mostly by recognizing the shape and familiar pattern of things I see. So, for example, I can not read a store sign from farther back than about 25 feet, but I can tell you we are coming up on a McDonalds from about 400 yards away. I recognize their signs. If there is an 8 ½ x 11 inch piece of paper on a tree 50 feet away, I can tell you if it is a riflery target or a sign, but I could not tell you if the sign said “No trespassing” or “Beware of Dog” or whatever until I was about 25 feet from it. So, just to pause and talk about shooting for a second, if that WAS a target, I could not see the center circle cross-hatch detail without a scope unless I was about 15-25 feet away. With a 4x scope, I can shoot a rifle comfortably at 50 feet, 25 yards, or 50 yards. I can shoot to kill at 100 yards, but will not win any awards. With an Aimpoint CompM4 red dot sight and a 2.5x magnifier, I can accurately (enough) shoot my AR-15 way beyond the distance that I could determine if the target was friend or foe.

I don’t hunt, but that’s mostly because I can’t stay still and shut up long enough to allow any animal worth shooting to get within a half mile of me. But for the hunters out there, let me illustrate My Vision with hunting and animal details: If there was a deer 100 yards away from me, I could tell you it was a deer and not a cow or a dog. I could not tell you if it was a doe or a buck. If that same deer was 25 yards away, I could possibly tell if it was a doe or a buck, but I’d be more confident of that at 50 feet. Even at that close a range, I could not count the points to determine if it was legal to shoot. Gee, maybe that’s why I don’t hunt? No, even if I could see to the moon, I would not have the patience that you hunter have. I give you guys a lot of credit for determination and skill.

My house is at an intersection of two roads. I can look out my bedroom window and see the street signs on the telephone pole. I know they are the street signs, and of course I know what they say. However, just looking at them from about 20-25 yards, (if I did not already know what they are) I would not be able to say with certainty that they were street signs. I’d probably be able to guess they were, based on recognizing the pattern of their size, location, and configuration. I can see that they are green, and have some white stuff on them, but I could not identify that white stuff as letters, let alone make out the individual letters themselves. With a 4x scope, I can see that they are street signs, read every letter, and aim in and hold aim at any one of the individual letters. Across the intersection, about 100 yards away, is a neighbor’s house. I can see the house and make out most of the windows, albeit without being able to discern much detail. I can not pick out the front door when looking at that house from my bedroom window. My buddy looked out the window and said “the front door is green and has a large window with a lace curtain.” With a 4x scope, I can just barely confirm the details he could see unaided with his eyes. With the 4x scope, I can make out that lace curtain only to the extent of being able to say that there appears to be an opaque covering over the window of the front door.

When you look through a variable rifle scope, as you increase the mag, the objects appear to be larger and closer. The data from the specific details in the image fills your eye more fully as the mag increases. As you zoom back out, the objects get smaller and appear to be further away. At 1x, you are seeing what you see without a scope. OK, for my vision, image zooming out even further, to say 0.5x, or 0.1x. That’s me: objects, no matter the actual distance away, appear smaller and further away to my unaided vision than they do to you. Our eye is sort of like a digital camera that sends a data stream to the central processor unit (the brain) which converts the data into an image. Actually, in our eyes, there are millions of retinal fibers that each act as their own individual digital camera sending data back to the brain. In my eyes, something happens and there is static on the line and the brain has to do the best it can to assemble an image based on an imperfect data stream. Obviously, the more data, the better chance for error-correction and the more likely it is that a useful image is generated in my brain. Depending on what I’m trying to see, I can get by with either very little data (for example, to recognize a McDonald’s sign down the road) or I might need lots of data, like to read and make use of a map. The more magnified the image, the more of my retinal cameras are on the job sending data about that particular point of interest back to my brain. With enough data, I can “see” anything pretty much. The trick is to get a satisfactory amount of data to the brain to make useful images in everyday life situations without putting everything under a microscope.

So, now to shooting and iron sights: I began shooting .22’s at 50 feet when I was 8. Using the iron sights, I could barely get the rifle pointed at the target, and got about 2 of 5 shots on the target paper (standard NRA 50 foot rifle targets, I think they were about 8 x 10 inches in size). I did the best I could, but peep sights and pinhole apertures really mess with my visual acuity. My brain is used to having to take all of the data streams and try to come up with some type of image. Narrowing the visual field down to just a few retinal fibers (looking through the peep sight) leaves LOTS of fibers seeing nothing useful or important to the task at hand, and yet my brain tries to integrate all that data anyway. I never gave up, and eventually switched to shooting .38 and .357 revolvers at “contact distance”. Eventually, I went back to rifles when I was able to outfit them with scopes. At this point in life, I am fortunate to be able to afford whatever optical aids I need or want. I use lasers with all of my handguns, and red dot sights for my AR. For my lever rifles, I use Burris 4x scopes. I have some older Winchester model 94’s that I do not alter from their original condition to mount scopes, but I do wonder why I bother to keep them since I am adamant that I am not running a firearms museum and I want to shoot what I own or move on from it. Oh never mind, I just LOVE those Winchester model 94’s from the pre-war and immediate post-war years. I tried shooting my Arisaka with the original factory iron sights but it was just so frustrating. But I did not want to alter the rifle because it is one of only a few things that I have that were left to me by my grandfather, and he got that rifle himself while serving in the Pacific. So, eventually I found a scope mount that fits into the well for the factory sights but does not require drilling or any modification of the original rifle. I can put the iron sights back on anytime.

When I look through the iron sights of my GPR (buckhorn rear sight, and fiber optic front sight) I have a lot of trouble discerning what is rear and what is front and what is target. It all just mish-mashes together. It might be better if I paint the backside of the buckhorn rear sight all white or orange or something like that. I might actually try that. When i said that I can't use iron sights, I meant exactly that: I can't use iron sights. I've heard Jethro224's excellent description of how you folks use iron sights a thousand times over the years, but it means nothing when I am looking down the rifle I can't make out what is rear sight, what is front sight, and what is target. Focus? You must be kidding. If I could selectively focus on any of those three (rear sight, front sight, or target) I would not have even needed to bring up any of this scope stuff here. Focus on the front sight? Yeah, I wish.

Someone asked why bother with a flintlock if I can’t shoot it in the natural, early-American way of using the iron sights. That’s a silly question! If any of us did not instinctively know the answer to that, we would not even be here reading this forum. I’m sure I do not have to tell you that there is something special and uniquely historically appealing about a rifle mechanism that was used for over 400 years of relatively recent history. And, if you think the Colonials would NOT have mounted scopes on their flintlocks if they’d had that optical technology available, you are just nuts. Sir, respectfully, I submit that putting a scope on a flintlock rifle is a PURE TRIUMPH of the pioneer spirit. Using available technology to solve problems was the pioneer way even if selected parts of the technology were light years ahead of other parts of the solution to the problem at hand. Anyway, I do believe it will work for me.

I’ll keep you guys posted.

Thanks, much.
 
Thank you for finally giving me a straight answer. You are the first one who ever has. I really did want to know.
Short and simple would have been plenty, but thanks for taking time to give me the full description too.

I know about near and far sighted which are easily corrected with lenses. And I know there are vision problems that cannot be corrected with lenses. What I could never figure out is how a scope can correct what glasses can't. If someone can't see, how do they see the scope? :confused:
If someone can see a scope, why can't they see a sight? :confused:

Thanks again for helping me to understand. :hatsoff:
 
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