New Builder - Kibler Colonial Long Rifle Kit

[Monk]

Questions - Kibler Colonial Long Rifle Kit

Intro:
So I started my first introduction to flintlocks and building rifles of wood and metal last weekend.
I live in Maine and am a SIG-trained armorer in pistols and rifles, a business owner, and also work in emergency medicine. I say that by way of introduction, so if some of my questions seem very basic, you'll perhaps excuse me as one not fully conversant yet in the muzzleloader world.

I have taken my time with this kit, the first one that I have built.
I found the part quality and attention to detail remarkably high, with excellent videos from Jim on Youtube.
Though I have watched the majority of the videos, I have some questions about technique and assembly.

Seeking:
I'm hoping that I can find someone who has built one or more of these kits, and can offer some feedback and experience to help me do my best with this build. A kindly mentor, who doesn't mind a few questions as things go forward, would be ideal.

Photos:
Sorry, I did not shoot close-up photos, only general ones, but will include those here.

Current status:
Trigger and trigger guard installed and drilled for pins.
Trigger freeplay tested and set, lock operation tested.
Barrel installed and pin holes drilled with the supplied guide kit.
Lock installed (did encounter some difficulty with aligning the rearmost screw through the stock into the lock.

Needed (other than wood finishing):
Fit patch box cover
Install sights, see question below
File off "gates" from brass butt stock cover

Questions:
Rear Tang - Should that be flush with wood, or slightly proud of it?
Mine is the thickness of a piece of paper above.
I am not an experienced woodworker, and I wonder if I should attempt this and get a small, sharp chisel.

Brass - Ramrod tubes, trigger guard, and other brass accessories; what is the best way to finish?
It is slightly dull now. Should that be polished, and if so, what should be done to prevent it from oxidizing (or doesn't brass oxidize?)

Filing Brass - Where the gates are to be filed off the brass, is there a way to do, with a file, I am assuming, that doesn't leave a surface that doesn't match the rest of the casting? In other words, should it be polished on a wheel or so?

Retaining Pins - am unclear how to finish these; just below the wood surface, flush, are the holes to be filled, or left open?

Sights - Conventional training at SIG taught me to install parts from the left to the right. Is this correct with the sights? How does one get the front sight to be the correct width and match the angles of the barrel contour? Do you install, center, and scribe it?

Patchbox - My patch box cover it longer than the spring, so the spring will not seat. What is the best way to uniformly remove the excess length? What type of saw or sanding?

Finishing Wood :
My other questions involve wood stock finishing, but I can mention those once the mechanical fitment is done.

Thanks for your time, and gracious replies; I look forward to learning more.

- Bruce

 

[BillyC]

I’m surprised no one has chimed in on this yet. Have you tried the search feature? Maybe post this to the flintlock page, there is always talk on there about Kibler kits. I just finished my first ever build, an SMR.

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

Welcome Monk. This is really a great place to be. Good information and great people !

 

[Thingamajiggy]

I do not have any experience with this yet, have not assembled a Kibler. Have been reading a lot of other posts of those who have though and do have a couple points that may help you. There are YouTube videos out there by Jim and others on how to assemble your colonial. And 2nd, quite a few stated that he was very responsive with questions, have you given either a try? Hopefully now that this thread is active, you'll get some real help from people with experience. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[NRFord]

Answers
#1 Tang Flush
#2 220-320-400 grit sand paper. should back your paper with a "safe" file
#3 Yes use a file first.
#4 I like them just below surface and leave open
#5 I also install left to right. You can file or leave as is. Sights should also be sanded smooth.
#6 Can't answer. Haven't done a patch box. I'd image Jim has this info in his videos... Also Jim will take calls, as already mentioned.
#7

 

[rfdr]

Build it anyway you like - seriously, there is no absolute right or wrong. I built one a few years back (images below) and just got another one that I'll start building in a few weeks, but without a patch box (don't need that), both are .54 rifled bbls. I used Jim's iron nitrate for the stain (aqua fortis, follow Jim's directions, his iron nitrate is the best and won't need neutralizing as others will) and then hand rubbed in about a dozen wipes of TruOil. Both kits were ordered with extra fancy tiger maple. I do NOT like "finishing" the metal and leave it all to patina on its own, as was mostly done back in the day. All yer other questions, for quick on the spot answers, call up Jim rather than wait on a forum reply - Jim is very responsive and super helpful.

 

[S.Kenton]

I like to “round” my barrel pins on both sides, that way you can push the pins out on either side. If you don’t at least round one side of the pins and remember which side is round, then you’re at risk of chipping out the wood when you remove the barrel for staining ( the rounded side gets pushed out) I make my pins look like a sharpened pencil. Also, barrel tang should be flush, file it with a metal file then sand along with the affected wood with 200-300 grit paper. I polish all brass, then lightly darken it with a used patch after shooting. I’m not a fan of perfectly polished brass.

 

[LongWalker]

Yeah, the written instructions with the kit are kind of thin. Here's a link to a post of Kibler's assembly videos: Assembling the Jim Kibler Colonial Rifle Kit - Video's

 

[Monk]

I’m surprised no one has chimed in on this yet. Have you tried the search feature? Maybe post this to the flintlock page, there is always talk on there about Kibler kits. I just finished my first ever build, an SMR.

Thanks, I was surprised too! Thought it might be my breath, but I brush every day!
Think everyone is busy these days, sure that help will come.

 

[Monk]

Answers
#1 Tang Flush
#2 220-320-400 grit sand paper. should back your paper with a "safe" file
#3 Yes use a file first.
#4 I like them just below surface and leave open
#5 I also install left to right. You can file or leave as is. Sights should also be sanded smooth.
#6 Can't answer. Haven't done a patch box. I'd image Jim has this info in his videos... Also Jim will take calls, as already mentioned.
#7

This is excellent! Right on point!
Jim's videos are excellent, I have watched them again and again, just more questions about details that someone who is new, may not know.
Finishes, methods, such things you have just helped me out with!

Thanks NRFord.

 

[Monk]

Build it anyway you like - seriously, there is no absolute right or wrong. I built one a few years back (images below) and just got another one that I'll start building in a few weeks, but without a patch box (don't need that), both are .54 rifled bbls. I used Jim's iron nitrate for the stain (aqua fortis, follow Jim's directions, his iron nitrate is the best and won't need neutralizing as others will) and then hand rubbed in about a dozen wipes of TruOil. Both kits were ordered with extra fancy tiger maple. I do NOT like "finishing" the metal and leave it all to patina on its own, as was mostly done back in the day. All yer other questions, for quick on the spot answers, call up Jim rather than wait on a forum reply - Jim is very responsive and super helpful.

View attachment 208935

View attachment 208936

View attachment 208937

That is some beautiful work sir, wow!
And some great tips.
Never thought of calling Jim, assumed he was a busy guy, I'm a business owner and my team handles thing.
But now that I know...
How did you get the brass to shine like that, buffing wheel and polishing compound?

 

[Monk]

I like to “round” my barrel pins on both sides, that way you can push the pins out on either side. If you don’t at least round one side of the pins and remember which side is round, then you’re at risk of chipping out the wood when you remove the barrel for staining ( the rounded side gets pushed out) I make my pins look like a sharpened pencil. Also, barrel tang should be flush, file it with a metal file then sand along with the affected wood with 200-300 grit paper. I polish all brass, then lightly darken it with a used patch after shooting. I’m not a fan of perfectly polished brass.

Some great feedback there!
And good idea on rounding both sides of the pin, I was just doing one side, thinking I'd just reverse my normal install order.
Are you filing the barrel tang flush, or removing wood under it to set it flush?

 

[S.Kenton]

Some great feedback there!
And good idea on rounding both sides of the pin, I was just doing one side, thinking I'd just reverse my normal install order.
Are you filing the barrel tang flush, or removing wood under it to set it flush?

I’m filing it fush, then cleaning up the surrounding wood from the file marks that you probably will leave around the barrel Tang area…. Hope this helps

 

[Rangefogger]

When you’re doing your final sanding be sure to sand smooth then apply water to whisker up or raise the grain/fibers of the wood, then dry it off (I use a heat gun) and repeat this step until the wood remains smooth after dampening and drying. This will leave you with a very smooth finish and you won’t have as many rough spots when finished. I initially sand with 220grit then use 300 grit to remove the whisker/raised grain.

 

[buckleymarka56]

Questions - Kibler Colonial Long Rifle Kit

Intro:
So I started my first introduction to flintlocks and building rifles of wood and metal last weekend.
I live in Maine and am a SIG-trained armorer in pistols and rifles, a business owner, and also work in emergency medicine. I say that by way of introduction, so if some of my questions seem very basic, you'll perhaps excuse me as one not fully conversant yet in the muzzleloader world.

I have taken my time with this kit, the first one that I have built.
I found the part quality and attention to detail remarkably high, with excellent videos from Jim on Youtube.
Though I have watched the majority of the videos, I have some questions about technique and assembly.

Seeking:
I'm hoping that I can find someone who has built one or more of these kits, and can offer some feedback and experience to help me do my best with this build. A kindly mentor, who doesn't mind a few questions as things go forward, would be ideal.

Photos:
Sorry, I did not shoot close-up photos, only general ones, but will include those here.

Current status:
Trigger and trigger guard installed and drilled for pins.
Trigger freeplay tested and set, lock operation tested.
Barrel installed and pin holes drilled with the supplied guide kit.
Lock installed (did encounter some difficulty with aligning the rearmost screw through the stock into the lock.

Needed (other than wood finishing):
Fit patch box cover
Install sights, see question below
File off "gates" from brass butt stock cover

Questions:
Rear Tang - Should that be flush with wood, or slightly proud of it?
Mine is the thickness of a piece of paper above.
I am not an experienced woodworker, and I wonder if I should attempt this and get a small, sharp chisel.

Brass - Ramrod tubes, trigger guard, and other brass accessories; what is the best way to finish?
It is slightly dull now. Should that be polished, and if so, what should be done to prevent it from oxidizing (or doesn't brass oxidize?)

Filing Brass - Where the gates are to be filed off the brass, is there a way to do, with a file, I am assuming, that doesn't leave a surface that doesn't match the rest of the casting? In other words, should it be polished on a wheel or so?

Retaining Pins - am unclear how to finish these; just below the wood surface, flush, are the holes to be filled, or left open?

Sights - Conventional training at SIG taught me to install parts from the left to the right. Is this correct with the sights? How does one get the front sight to be the correct width and match the angles of the barrel contour? Do you install, center, and scribe it?

Patchbox - My patch box cover it longer than the spring, so the spring will not seat. What is the best way to uniformly remove the excess length? What type of saw or sanding?

Finishing Wood :
My other questions involve wood stock finishing, but I can mention those once the mechanical fitment is done.

Thanks for your time, and gracious replies; I look forward to learning more.

- Bruce

Morning monk
I to have a colonial from kibler.
It may have been me, screwing it up , but I to had issues with the rear screw lining up.
Nothing my gunsmith can't fix, and is fixing.

Staining the stock and barrel are the LAST thing I will do.
Patch box button needed a little tweaking, but fits perfect.( one of the guys in my rendezvou group, put Sealing wax( letter sealing wax) in the inside of his patch box and a string to the lid, so I won't come off).

I will use brass pins instead of the steel ones jim sends. Amazon 1/16 brass rods. About 4 bucks

But over all I think it's a very high quality rifle. And waiting for the smith to get it finished is killing me.

I have a rendezvou next weekend, but it won't be ready.

 

[Freedom]

There is a thread clean-out tap included with your parts kit... just one more little thing that makes Jim's kits great!

When you have your lock installed, put one of those squeeze clamps across the lock to lock plate and use the tap it to perfectly align the threads with the holes in your lock.
Clean the threads up before you try to install the screws!

 

[Freedom]

After lots of hours sanding with detail Sanders and sandpaper wrapped around little files, the brass hardware from your kit will be ready. Lots of the coping details will be lost during the heavy filing required to mate the wood to metal, remove the gates, and to clean everything up from the sand casting.

With small Jeweler files you can reestablish the lines very clean. I suggest you stay away from a Dremel tool unless you're way better with it than I am. LOL

I kind of like the a final finish left by fine grey Scotch Brite, and a little Jaxs Brown to make the coping details stand out. In a few weeks the white brass will start to get that nice yellow mustard color on its own.

 

[James Kibler]

boy, those look nice! Can I send parts to you to polish! Ha

 

[Freedom]

boy, those look nice! Can I send parts to you to polish! Ha

Thank you Jim! And actually sir I wouldn't mind that job.
Your kits are so nicely done that my time spent shining them up is super enjoyable and rewarding.
Winter stays long this high!

I shined up my brother's rifle with some Fire-Bluing.

 

[th1840]

Questions - Kibler Colonial Long Rifle Kit

Intro:
So I started my first introduction to flintlocks and building rifles of wood and metal last weekend.
I live in Maine and am a SIG-trained armorer in pistols and rifles, a business owner, and also work in emergency medicine. I say that by way of introduction, so if some of my questions seem very basic, you'll perhaps excuse me as one not fully conversant yet in the muzzleloader world.

I have taken my time with this kit, the first one that I have built.
I found the part quality and attention to detail remarkably high, with excellent videos from Jim on Youtube.
Though I have watched the majority of the videos, I have some questions about technique and assembly.

Seeking:
I'm hoping that I can find someone who has built one or more of these kits, and can offer some feedback and experience to help me do my best with this build. A kindly mentor, who doesn't mind a few questions as things go forward, would be ideal.

Photos:
Sorry, I did not shoot close-up photos, only general ones, but will include those here.

Current status:
Trigger and trigger guard installed and drilled for pins.
Trigger freeplay tested and set, lock operation tested.
Barrel installed and pin holes drilled with the supplied guide kit.
Lock installed (did encounter some difficulty with aligning the rearmost screw through the stock into the lock.

Needed (other than wood finishing):
Fit patch box cover
Install sights, see question below
File off "gates" from brass butt stock cover

Questions:
Rear Tang - Should that be flush with wood, or slightly proud of it?
Mine is the thickness of a piece of paper above.
I am not an experienced woodworker, and I wonder if I should attempt this and get a small, sharp chisel.

Brass - Ramrod tubes, trigger guard, and other brass accessories; what is the best way to finish?
It is slightly dull now. Should that be polished, and if so, what should be done to prevent it from oxidizing (or doesn't brass oxidize?)

Filing Brass - Where the gates are to be filed off the brass, is there a way to do, with a file, I am assuming, that doesn't leave a surface that doesn't match the rest of the casting? In other words, should it be polished on a wheel or so?

Retaining Pins - am unclear how to finish these; just below the wood surface, flush, are the holes to be filled, or left open?

Sights - Conventional training at SIG taught me to install parts from the left to the right. Is this correct with the sights? How does one get the front sight to be the correct width and match the angles of the barrel contour? Do you install, center, and scribe it?

Patchbox - My patch box cover it longer than the spring, so the spring will not seat. What is the best way to uniformly remove the excess length? What type of saw or sanding?

Finishing Wood :
My other questions involve wood stock finishing, but I can mention those once the mechanical fitment is done.

Thanks for your time, and gracious replies; I look forward to learning more.

- Bruce

I'm in Maine as well if I can help