New lock for Pedersoli Charles Moore 45

[ChrisPer]

I had a few problems with my Pedersoli Charles Moore 45 Percussion/ switch barrel and lock to 44 flint.
I had just got the set trigger working, after using it for a few years as plain trigger, when the main set trigger spring broke. It was rusted.
Then I bought a spare and while I was at it a new percussion lock - seems my original was misplaced and I cannot find it.

First problem: The set trigger does not kick hard enough to fire the lock, indeed not hard at all. Is it OK to wind the pressure on the spring with a clamp and keep cranking the spring screw, or am I misunderstanding how to do it?
second problem: Even hauling on the trigger unset its near impossible to get the lock to fire. What is the sequence of actions I should follow?
Thinking to polish the sear and tumbler engagement, polish the sides and any rubbing surfaces; maybe relieve the wood above the sear, or bend the sear slightly to get it closer to the trigger blade? I cants see in to understand whats wrong when its done up.

 

[ChrisPer]

OK Its working well now.

1) fit lockplate into recess and fit barrel; the cutout for the nipple drum needed a bit of filing to let the barrel down to its bedding. Set it so the drum is normally in contact with the lockplate.

2) Remove hammer and twist in vise to get the nose aligned with the nipple.

3) Dremel grind the inside flat of the hammer nose so its square to the nipple. Use the square end of a chainsaw sharpening grindstone, very small diameter.

4) Is this a rebounding hammer? It appears to stop before the top of the nipple. Use a spring vise to take off the mainspring, then unscrew the bridle and look at taking out the tumbler to adjust it. I don't think so. It took a lot to get the hammer off, and this will be file and try many times. Instead I filed the part of the bridle that stops the tumbler - cut, reassemble and test until it appeared to just brush the nipple.

5) Its a hell of a job to set it off. It appeared that the sear was really very hard to actuate. I removed the spring and tested sear engagement with gentle push and it appeared to work beautifully. So the sear notch is prebably fine. I put the sear spring to a grindstone to thin it along the lower leaf - about 5/8" dia Dremel stone grinding along the spring, not across. A short time grinding and testing and now its very reasonable sear pressure.

6) I put the set trigger in the vise and used a broad but thin gunsmith screwdriver to get another 1/3 turn on the set trigger spring screw and the set trigger now strikes much more energetically.

Great! The gun now appears to have a reliable release and the hammer appears to strike correctly. Next time at the range, 100% fires when intended.

Now for the flintlock.