New member looking for information

[Macman]

I am brand new to this forum and black powder shooting.

I have an original 1842 Harper's Ferry smooth bore musket. The original lock plate was ground smooth with no eagle or HF date so I replaced it with a Springfield lock plate from eBay. It fit perfectly. I have located a batch of .69 caliber three ring minnie balls and percussion caps and I would like to fire up the old thing.

The musket is in great condition. The action works ok, bore scopes good and the nipple is clear. I have stripped it down completely and lubricated everything.

I'm interested in reading up on the project before I get myself in trouble. Can any of you suggest a site or posts where I can read up on the whole operation.

Thanks, Phil (Macman)

 

[Phil Coffins]

Your smooth bore will not work well with a mini ball, that is for a rifled bore. Try a round ball.

 

[Grenadier1758]

@Phil Coffins is correct. Your Minié ball will not ( perform as well as a round ball of 0.570 in a wad of tow (loose strands of unraveled twine) or a 0.015" thick lubricated patch.

Do some searching on this Percussion Rifles Forum for loading a smoothbore musket. Most of the answers in the search will make sense by substituting an approximately 0.570" diameter ball for whatever projectile is being discussed for a smoothbore musket.

You will need to find black powder or one of the substitute powders such as Triple Seven or Pyrodex. You will need a measure as powder charges are measured by volume equivalents to 2Fg black powder. Since you will likely be shooting a charge of a substitute powder you will need a good cleaning jag for a working ramrod. All the fouling generated by shooting a muzzleloader using black powder or substitute powder is very corrosive. All that fouling needs to be cleaned out and the gun lubricated with a good rust inhibiting lubricant such as Barricade.

Do try to find a traditional muzzle loading gun club where you can get an evaluation of your gun from the members there.

Powder charges should be kept low in your Harper's Ferry Smoothbore. No more than 60 grains volume of 2Fg equivalent powders. Look for any signs of gas leakage at the breech. You may be able to increase the charge if there are no signs of gas leakage after firing, but I wouldn't want to load a charge greater than 80 grains volume.

 

[Macman]

Thanks, guys. This will get me started. Someone emailed me some videos to watch.

Grenadier1758: Is your info relevant to my .69 caliber as well?

 

[dave951]

Thanks, guys. This will get me started. Someone emailed me some videos to watch.

Grenadier1758: Is your info relevant to my .69 caliber as well?

I shoot an 1842 in competition. You being a nooby, be careful where you get your info from.

 

[Macman]

Thanks, Dave. That's why I joined the forum.

 

[dave951]

Thanks, Dave. That's why I joined the forum.

Even here. In the world of round ball, there are many here who know their business. In minies, very few.

 

[Grayrock Volunteer]

Are there any markings in the wood just forward of the trigger guard?

 

[Macman]

Nope.

 

[Ponderosaman]

I did a lot of testing with different loads for my dad's reproduction .69 caliber smoothbore. I tried some mini-balls and found them to be unusably inaccurate during my trials. Perhaps I was doing something wrong, but it makes sense that a non-round projectile without some spin to keep it stable could be less than accurate. One fun thing about this weapon is that it can be used with shot and measures to 14 gauge. Historically this gun was loaded with buckshot and ball ammo to make it more lethal in battle. Please refer to the other guys on this site if using an original in this way would be safe, but it worked well with the repro.

 

[tenngun]

Ponderosaman is on point, these guns were traditionally loaded for close work and the buck and ball was common.
Some were rifles to take a minnie ball, they also made a ‘Nestor ball’ to make a simi-rifle, it didn’t work well.
Keep your charges low, get close (50 yards or so) have fun

 

[Grenadier1758]

Thanks, guys. This will get me started. Someone emailed me some videos to watch.

Grenadier1758: Is your info relevant to my .69 caliber as well?

Yes, most of the information on percussion smoothbores is specifically directed to 69 caliber.

@dave951 is an excellent source for information on smooth bore muskets.

You have originals. Keep the charges low. Use rust inhibiting lubrication liberally for storage.

 

[Macman]

Ok, thanks again guys. You've talked me into it. I've ordered .69 caliber balls. It makes sense.

Phil

 

[Grenadier1758]

@Macman, the ball size for a 69 caliber smoothbore could be 0.672" in diameter. With a 0.015" thick patch that gives a little compression would be a reasonable starting caliber for the 69 caliber musket.

 

[toot]

Welcome.

 

[Macman]

Ok, Grenadier, I was able to change my order to .672 at Track of the Wolf just in time. Good save. Thanks.

 

[JCKelly]

Not certain, but it may be that 1842 Harper's Ferry musket bbls were still hand forged. Springfield power hammer forge-welded their barrels foe a much, much stronger barrel weld. If you are interested in shooting antique US muskets you can find how they were made, and relative comparisons between HF and Springfield" Read: Harper’s Ferry and the New Technology, Merritt Roe Smith, ©1977

 

[Macman]

Thanks, JC, it just so happens that I have the book. My wife picked it up when she visited Harper's Ferry about ten years ago. Unfortunately I was not on the trip with her.

 

[59sharps]

I’ll suggest several things.
1) .685 round ball hard lead.
2) dipped trice 50/50 beeswax olive oil. Or use Alox no patch.
3) 69 grn 2ffg or 55 grn 3fffg. Real black powder.
4) personally I would contact Lodgewoid or another settler and get an original HF lock for it. I don’t remember the original lock markings.
5) anything else contact the guys at N-ssa board. Or ask Dave951

 

[William Lincoln]

Everything you need to know is right here. The help is here, just keep asking.
You also can subscribe to Blackpowder TV on youtube where you get a
complete course. Also, for 50 bucks join and support the National Muzzleloading
Rifle Association (NMLRA) You get plenty of good info and they follow National
politics that affect the sport. Put a decal of theirs alongside the NRA on your vehicle,
if you like. Then they will understand why you are buying all that powder and lead---and it
will remove all doubt about you being a throwback frontier nut case.