New Patch Problem

[Josh Smith]

Hello,

OK, not exactly a patch problem, but close.

In the Kentucky, the patches I was using in the Bobcat felt decidedly loose, so I made up some of the .018" avg pillow ticking I have here. (I have a feeling it will work well in the New Englander .50 as well, as the .015" feel just a little loose, will report on that later after I try it out).

Those patches were much, much better - but only after I spent days of swabbing the barrel out while watching TV to get the rest of the grime out - rust, old fouling, whatnot.

It now loads the way I feel it should. Moderate effort, but nothing that requires a hammer, and this can be done relatively easily with the starter and hickory ramrod (I guess it's hickory).

It shoots very nicely like this.

Now, the problem is this: that damned rifling that has chatter marks really gathers up fouling! Grrrr.... Swabbing it out doesn't solve the problem all the way - only a thorough cleaning after three or four shots works (fouling and chattering are both the worst about 2/3 of the way up the barrel where it forms a tight spot after a few shots).

I'm going to have to smooth this out. Lands only though, looks like, or replace the barrel - in which case I might as well replace the whole gun.

I have no aversion to a bit of work at all, and lapped the barrel on my Bobcat.

However... this is something different.

What would you folks recommend? Crocus cloth in coarse, medium, then fine? I don't mind enlarging the bore just a bit as that can be adapted to with patch thickness. I don't even need to get all the chatter marks out - just enough to make swabbing a bit more effective.

Thanks!

Josh

 

[BrownBear]

I'd play with your lube first. In my experience going to a "grease" type keeps the fouling soft enough the chatter won't be an issue. You can test the idea with Crisco, rather than buying anything new. Heck, you might even decide Crisco is the patch lube for you. You wouldn't be the first!

 

[Josh Smith]

I'd play with your lube first. In my experience going to a "grease" type keeps the fouling soft enough the chatter won't be an issue. You can test the idea with Crisco, rather than buying anything new. Heck, you might even decide Crisco is the patch lube for you. You wouldn't be the first!

Hello,

My lube is currently 1/2 Olive Oil, 1/4 Lanolin, 1/4 Beeswax.

During the summer months, the Olive Oil is replaced by Crisco. I've tried both thus far.

Thanks,

Josh

 

[JMinnerath]

Why use such a mix? What's wrong with plain old crisco?

 

[Trot]

I too think a softer lube would go a long way in solving your problem. I like using Balistol, seems to clean as you shoot.

 

[Josh Smith]

Why use such a mix? What's wrong with plain old crisco?

Hello,

Different flowing points.

Sorta' like using 10w30 in your car instead of straight 30 weight.

Josh

 

[JMinnerath]

Patch lube in a muzzle loader does not work like a multi-viscosity oil in an engine.

 

[Josh Smith]

Patch lube in a muzzle loader does not work like a multi-viscosity oil in an engine.

The idea is to keep from having to change lubes out due to different temps.

Regardless, I've tried Crisco, and this mixture seems to work better.

Josh

 

[Pete Gaimari]

What's wrong with spending $5 and getting a tub of Mink Oil from TOW?

It will last forever, is natural, and works in all temperatures.

Hard to say that about too many lubes.

 

[Josh Smith]

Hi Cap Pete,

Likely the next lube I use will be made from the fat of something I kill.

I'm on this self-sufficiency kick (see the ramrod thread down in how to make stuff).

Always have been self-sufficient and I have a desire to be even more.

I'll be making knives before too long (no, seriously, been planning it).

Josh

 

[Pete Gaimari]

Try and kill a mink. :grin:

 

[Josh Smith]

Try and kill a mink. :grin:

I think the fur's worth more than anything.

Maybe raccoon has usable fat I could render. They are only worth $3 apiece...

Josh

 

[Pete Gaimari]

When you buy my gun i'll send you some Mink Oil.

btw..It's not an oil. It's a paste. I don't bother to melt it. I just put some on my fingers and rub it in the patch. Easy.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Cate...?catId=2&subId=25&styleId=67&partNum=MINK-OIL

 

[CaptainKirk]

Josh, you might try this:
Automotive valve lapping compound paste (water-soluble) followed by a ultra fine-polishing compound.
I have never used this method to polish a bore, so can't attest to it's success, but I have used it on metal parts externally with impressive results. You have to work awfully hard to inflict any real damage, but repetitive polishing will leave a mirror-smooth finish.
It should be less aggressive and less harsh than crocus cloth and shouldn't cut the edges on your rifling.
I would test it on a random piece of metal first, though.

 

[ohio ramrod]

The way I lap barrels that need serious lapping is to oil the bore with a light oil, put a wooden plug with a piece of 10/32 all thread centered in it down about two inches, pour a lead slug about 1 inch, pull out the slug and remove the wood and cut off any allthread off the short end .Then I use either valve grinding coumpound for extreme lapping, or lapping coumpound for moderate work..If I have used the grinding coumpound I make a second plug and lapping coumpound for a finish lap. To do this use a disposable ramrod as the coumpoumd will embed into the rod.

 

[playfarmers]

I had a Lyman Deerstalker with chatter marks and I put up with it for about 16 years or so. Finally the extra cleaning got to me and I got a new Trade rifle. I couldn't believe how fast that new barrel came clean. I feel for you.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

The method described by "Ohio ramrod" is what you need to follow. Souring the bore with Scotch Brite or steel wool, which some call lapping, only works on the tops of the lands. If you work them enough to remove the reamer marks you won't have any groove depth left, the edges of the lands will be rounded off and you'll have a "smooth bore" but it will be a smoothbore. :haha:
Proper lapping with a lead slug cast in the bore works lands, grooves and sides of lands equally, thus enlarging the bore but retaining the relationship of land to groove.
Judging by your photo of the bore, that is the worst I've ever seen. When a barrel is cut rifled it is first bored, reamed smooth and to standard diameter before the grooves are cut. Thus the smooth bore becomes the land tops. What you are calling "chatter marks" on the land tops are the result of a poor reaming job before the grooves were cut. Proper lapping also "uniforms" the bore. The lap will first cut the tight spots. Then you cast a new slug and keep working it until it slides evenly the full length of the bore, it may take a full day's work and several lead slugs but you'll be pleased with the results.