New Pedersoli Super Cub Rifle Kit

[Craig]

I just received my Pedersoli rifle kit. I was surprised it was a gun in the white and not a box of parts. My biggest challange at this point appears to be taking out the pins to get the barrel and lock out. I am guessing I need to sand the stock so it is flush with the barrel, lock, patchbox, etc. first. Then take the gun apart and stain and oil the stock and brown the barrel. But maybe I should buy a book to find out how to remove those pins and do all this.

The gun is going to be a great size and weight for me. I am 5'6" and 135 lbs. and it feels good. I look forward to making it look good, too.

Any suggestions from this knowledgeable group are welcome, no hoped and prayed for is more like it.

 

[caneman]

Hi Rusty,

I'm as new here as you and probably have even more questions. If you don't get some direction from folks here I'd start by reading a lot in the "Builders Bench" and then ask specific questions. The search function may help you too. Good luck.

 

[gmww]

I just built my first kit (underhammer). I also own a Pedersoli and like the fit and finish. If you want suggestions on stain you might look at the Laurel Mountain Forge Antique stains. I used the Cherry and like it very much. If that's too red for you they have other colors. I also Browned my metal finish with Laurel Mountain Forge. Good Luck!

GMWW

 

[Zonie]

Traditionally, the pins are put into the stock from the right side (gun pointing away from you), so you drive them out from the left side.

You can use a small nail with the point filed off so it is flat. If you don't file the point off, it will skip to the side of the barrel pin and poke a hole in the wood.

Make sure the nail or whatever is smaller than the pin the company used. If it is larger, it will enlarge the hole and possibly split the wood.

Tap the pin out far enough to get ahold of it with a pair of Vise Grips or other locking plyers. Then gently turn it back and forth while you pull it out.
That's about all there is to it.

It is a good idea to protect the metal parts with masking tape (or electrical tape) before you try to sand the wood down. This can help keep the sandpaper from scratching the metal.
If the tape becomes damaged from sanding, replace it before you sand any more wood off.

Use a sanding block to back up the sandpaper when you do the flat panals like the area around the lock and on the opposite side of the stock.

I don't recommend using the sanding block when your working on curved surfaces. Let the pre shaped wood form the sandpaper. If there are areas you want to remove more wood from to change the basic shape of the stock, use extra finger pressure and concentrate the sanding to the area you want to change.

Sand with the grain unless you want to remove lots of wood. If you sand across the grain to remove extra wood rapidly, leave enough wood in the area so you can finish sanding it "with the grain". Otherwise you will have scratches on the surface and no amount of oil or other finishing material will ever cover it.

One of the biggest mistakes made by first time gun builders is to leave too much of the wood flat or slab sided. The "great guns" have very few flat areas on their stocks except for the flat panals where the lock or the lock bolts fit.
Keeping this in mind, yes, sand the wood so it mates with the metal parts but the other areas should be a rounded, smooth transition from one area to another.

Happy building! ::