New to flintlocks - Advice welcome

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Frozenwinter

32 Cal.
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So I just ordered one of the Cabelas/Pedersoli "Blue Ridge flintlocks in .50 cal. Its got a 39" barrel and a 1:48" twist.
Any recommendations on what loads to start off with on this once it arrives? I'm assuming that I will need to pick up some FF powder as all I have currently is FFF for my C&B revolvers. I'm completely new to black powder long guns and have only ever messed around with revolvers before so any advice or pointers are welcome.
I'm also hoping that I'm posting this in the right spot, if not then apologies in advance.
 
Welcome aboard Frozen, :hatsoff: You will be fine using the 3f in your new .50 cal. All my .50's shoot well with 65 to 70 grns. Some will even eat 90 grns. I would start low , say 50 or 60 grns and see what works best for your gun. Not all guns will act the same. Start low fire 3 to 5 shots then bump it up 5 grns at a time until you get your best group. Then use that charge to adjust the sights. Good Luck and be sure you have everything to clean your gun with prior to shooting it.
 
Welcome here Mr. Frozen. You have went and done it now....one flintlock leads to another and another and another...... I bought the same flintlock as yours maybe 2 years ago or a little less and have only put around 60 rounds through it as the other 4 that I now own get the range time. The Pedersoli Blue Ridge has so far proved to be a very reliable gun but I can't say I have found a workable load yet as the rifling is still sharp and cuts up the patches. I have taken scrub pads and stroked it pretty good with those to smooth out the sharp edges. It will be interesting to follow your progress with your new gun so be sure to post your results often so we can follow along. Good luck with it. Greg. :)
 
smo said:
Welcome aboard Frozen, :hatsoff: You will be fine using the 3f in your new .50 cal. All my .50's shoot well with 65 to 70 grns. Some will even eat 90 grns. I would start low , say 50 or 60 grns and see what works best for your gun. Not all guns will act the same. Start low fire 3 to 5 shots then bump it up 5 grns at a time until you get your best group. Then use that charge to adjust the sights. Good Luck and be sure you have everything to clean your gun with prior to shooting it.

Thanks for the response.
Good to know that I wont have to start keeping 2 different powders on hand.
Any idea on what size round ball and patch I should start off with? Or will i need to take a micrometer to the lands/groves to figure that out?
 
Critter Getter said:
Welcome here Mr. Frozen. You have went and done it now....one flintlock leads to another and another and another...... I bought the same flintlock as yours maybe 2 years ago or a little less and have only put around 60 rounds through it as the other 4 that I now own get the range time. The Pedersoli Blue Ridge has so far proved to be a very reliable gun but I can't say I have found a workable load yet as the rifling is still sharp and cuts up the patches. I have taken scrub pads and stroked it pretty good with those to smooth out the sharp edges. It will be interesting to follow your progress with your new gun so be sure to post your results often so we can follow along. Good luck with it. Greg. :)

Oh I fully expect this to be my first step down the rabbit hole, lol.
Already looking at some of the DIY flint rifle kits.
 
I would think a .490 ball would be a good place to start with a patch in the ,015-.020 range. One can use spit to lube that patches or one of the many commercial or homemade lubes discuss on this forum. Everyone seems to have a favorite. When I started out in this game 40 years ago many folks just used Crisco, and that could be used, but there are probably better options including what you use for your cap and ball revolvers.
 
The FFF will work fine in a 50. Just lower your powder charge by about 10%. :idunno:
 
My Blue Ridge cap lock rifle needed the front sight filed down some so take a file to the range with you at first. Mine shot WAY low, so don't be disappointed if yours does. That was a long time ago, though. Maybe they have changed it down a little.
 
Don't be too quick to file. You want to make sure you have it dialed in first. Get your load set first. They make them so you need to file so you can adjust it where you want. Easier to file than to add metal later.
 
Frozen,

What part of Minnesota do you hail from?

The Blue Ridge (Pedersoli Frontier)are a great shooting gun accuracy wise. Your owners manual will describe everything you need to know to get going and give you starting load recommendations.

Looking at the owners manual they give a range of 50 to 100 gr (max) of 2F and a .490 ball with .010 patch. If you use 3F you can cut the charge down a bit, but starting with 50 of 3F would be a good place to start and work up 5 gr at a time until the group tightens. I'm going to bet a .490 ball with a .015 patch would be better.

I never had a .50, but in my .54 it loved 90 grs of 2F with a .530 and a .015 oxyoke prelubed patch. My 36 took a .350 ball and .015 prelube oxyoke, so .010 under bore for the ball and .015 patch would probably be a good place to start.

Good Luck!
 
Well, you should never be quick to file. Let the gun determine whether you need to raise the point of impact. Mine was a couple of feet low at 30 yards, and it didn't take a whole lot of filing to bring it up.
 
Spikebuck said:
Frozen,

What part of Minnesota do you hail from?

The Blue Ridge (Pedersoli Frontier)are a great shooting gun accuracy wise. Your owners manual will describe everything you need to know to get going and give you starting load recommendations.

Looking at the owners manual they give a range of 50 to 100 gr (max) of 2F and a .490 ball with .010 patch. If you use 3F you can cut the charge down a bit, but starting with 50 of 3F would be a good place to start and work up 5 gr at a time until the group tightens. I'm going to bet a .490 ball with a .015 patch would be better.

I never had a .50, but in my .54 it loved 90 grs of 2F with a .530 and a .015 oxyoke prelubed patch. My 36 took a .350 ball and .015 prelube oxyoke, so .010 under bore for the ball and .015 patch would probably be a good place to start.

Good Luck!

I'm in the Twin Cities area.
I'll be sure to read through the book of instructions when my rifle arrives.
 
I opened the vent hole liner to a 1/16 size and it really made my ignition more reliable. I tried 5/64ths but decided i liked to 1/16th better based on the amount of fire exiting the larger vent. Using 3f with the 5/64ths vent, I quit priming the pan, since enough powder dribbled out during loading. I should have done an extensive accuracy test with each size vent, but I am more of a stump shooter, than researcher. Besides I am sure someone has already tested and charted the results. My front sight was way to high on my Pedersoli Kentucky rifle also.
 
Be advised that there are 5 numbered bits between 1/16 and 5/64. In terms of hole area 5/64 if huge compared to 1/16. You could start with 1/16 and work your way up.
Regards,
Pletch
 
Well my rifle arrived today, looks great!
I tried dry firing it and it seemed to spark well.

With the advice you fine folks have given me I'm sure to have a great time with it the next time I get to the gun club.

Now I just need to pick up some balls and patches and a couple other odds and ends and I'll be ready to go.

Thanks again for the advice everyone.
 
Good start, however the gun can certainly be worked into a very fine gun that the factory side can't compare to.

In short, good choice and one of the better made production flintlocks available. While not on a custom level it'll certainly be reliable and fun. Besides it won't be your last... Your bit, and the flintlock bug sinks it's teeth very, very deep... :thumbsup:
 
Crewdawg445 said:
Good start, however the gun can certainly be worked into a very fine gun that the factory side can't compare to.

In short, good choice and one of the better made production flintlocks available. While not on a custom level it'll certainly be reliable and fun. Besides it won't be your last... Your bit, and the flintlock bug sinks it's teeth very, very deep... :thumbsup:

I'm already looking at what I can do to "dress it up" a bit once I finish remodeling my basement and have a work bench again.
I'm thinking it could use a small inlay on the cheek rest and possibly a patchbox.
 
Pics because the internet has rules
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I believe spikebuck reworked one as well.

Mine is no longer a factory rifle...

Barrel is now pinned, lock replaced with an offering from L&R, triggers reworked, new ramrod pipes, barrel draw filed/ factory stampings removed, new hickory ramrod, inlays, new sites and other personal touches added.

I completely stripped the stock, slimmed her down and refinished.





 
Crewdawg445 said:
I believe spikebuck reworked one as well.

Mine is no longer a factory rifle...

Barrel is now pinned, lock replaced with an offering from L&R, triggers reworked, new ramrod pipes, barrel draw filed/ factory stampings removed, new hickory ramrod, inlays, new sites and other personal touches added.

I completely stripped the stock, slimmed her down and refinished.







Beautiful!
Well once i have a work bench again I'll be sure to start another thread looking for advice and pointers on re-working one of these.

So on a factory gun is the barrel secured to the stock with the same screws that hold the ramrod pipes in? Or is it floating?
I havent taken mine completely apart yet.
 
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