New to muzzleloading and needing some help

[coprhed5454]

A wad is a flat pad under bullet base. It does not wrap around the bullet. It provides a stable platform for the pressure of the charge to push evenly across the base of the bullet.
Projectiles that fit at or just less than bore can be seated in a slight not square to bore. There are seating jags that help this but a wad also can help at ignition.

Gotcha! Basically how the powerbelts are now with just the plastic end as opposed to how sabots completely cover the bullet?

 

[coprhed5454]

You can get a small tool called a fouling scraper. It attaches to the ramrod. Good for cleaning out that crud at the bottom of the barrel. Available at track of the wolf.
I also have a small portable steam cleaner that I got on Ebay for about 30 bucks. It really does a great job of blasting out the barrel and flame channel.

Thanks, deermanct. I will definitely have to get a fouling scraper to try. I think my wife may have a small steamer.

 

[coprhed5454]

Dont get Evapo-rust on the outside of barrel it wil take the blueing off

Good to know. Thanks, Jeff B.

 

[Spikebuck]

Gotcha! Basically how the powerbelts are now with just the plastic end as opposed to how sabots completely cover the bullet?

Kind of. A wad is not attached to the projectile. It is a lubed felt disc at bore size, or perhaps a tiny bit larger, and about 1/8" thick shoved down the bore after the powder is put in and before the projectile is rammed down. You would probably only use these if you had a flat bottomed base on your conical. When I used conicals I always used hollow based conicals and no wad was required as the explosion of the powder effectively "swelled" the skirt at the base into the rifling grooves and seals the bore (or at least it should.) Same principal as that power thing you mentioned that we cannot talk about.

That other thing you mention that also is a reference to wooden shoes in Holland is equivalent in function to what a patch does on a round ball.

 

[Zonie]

For those who forgot, here is Forum Rule that talks about some of the projectiles mentioned in this thread:

9: We do not discuss copper and/or jacketed, plastic/polymer tipped bullets, sabots, power belts, or other 'plastic-wrapped' bullets. Smoothbores using plastic wads and steel shot are an exception to this rule.

 

[fillwa]

The Fouling Scrapper mentioned by deermanct is a great idea. You will also find the tool handy thorough cleanings.
Shooting a muzzle loader is a trail & error / experimentation process to find the best powder load, patch & ball & patch lube or projectile combination. It takes range time and a methodical process to come up with the solution.
As you inquire further into advice and recommendations you will receive plenty of suggestions.

One thing for certain after you've cleaned you rifle and applied rust prevention down the barrel, you will want to clean it out prior to shooting tom prevent the oil from turning to tar from the powder ignition.
Rubbing alcohol on a patch ran up and down the barrel followed another alcohol patch works for me.

Keep posting questions. Search the forum for advice. You will find that these rifles are a lot of fun to shoot.

 

[coprhed5454]

For those who forgot, here is Forum Rule that talks about some of the projectiles mentioned in this thread:

9: We do not discuss copper and/or jacketed, plastic/polymer tipped bullets, sabots, power belts, or other 'plastic-wrapped' bullets. Smoothbores using plastic wads and steel shot are an exception to this rule.

My apologies, Zonie. Thanks for the reminder. Wasn't really trying to discuss them. Just trying to figure out what would be best to shoot in my gun with the twist that I have.

 

[coprhed5454]

The Fouling Scrapper mentioned by deermanct is a great idea. You will also find the tool handy thorough cleanings.
Shooting a muzzle loader is a trail & error / experimentation process to find the best powder load, patch & ball & patch lube or projectile combination. It takes range time and a methodical process to come up with the solution.
As you inquire further into advice and recommendations you will receive plenty of suggestions.

One thing for certain after you've cleaned you rifle and applied rust prevention down the barrel, you will want to clean it out prior to shooting tom prevent the oil from turning to tar from the powder ignition.
Rubbing alcohol on a patch ran up and down the barrel followed another alcohol patch works for me.

Keep posting questions. Search the forum for advice. You will find that these rifles are a lot of fun to shoot.

Thanks, Fillwa. So far, I have enjoyes the process of "reviving" it and am looking forward to getting to shoot it now that it is in operable order.

 

[Mad Professor]

Try a 50-cal 385 gr Hornady or Buffalo Bullet conical over a lubed wonder wad. Start with 70 gr FFg and work up to 90 (should be ~max load).

I use 80 gr in my 1-28 GM IBS barrel/TC Renegade and it shoots great groups. 90 gr groups are tight too, too but the kick is getting mule like.

 

[Mad Professor]

You can get a small tool called a fouling scraper. It attaches to the ramrod. Good for cleaning out that crud at the bottom of the barrel. Available at track of the wolf.
I also have a small portable steam cleaner that I got on Ebay for about 30 bucks. It really does a great job of blasting out the barrel and flame channel.

Fouling scrapers work but if you've got a patent breech, an old bronze brush under bore size might work better, to clean the breech..

Make sure your ramrod attachment is sturdy/pinned, don't want a brush or a jag stuck in the bore.

When I first got started I got a jag stuck more than once, putting a dry patch down a fouled barrel. I shot it out using a little powder under the nipple. If you leave the ramrod attached, and aim straight up, the jag can be recovered easily as it comes back down with the ramrod. That won't work with a brush.

Reminded me of younger days when we shot arrows up in the air..........

 

[coprhed5454]

Try a 50-cal 385 gr Hornady or Buffalo Bullet conical over a lubed wonder wad. Start with 70 gr FFg and work up to 90 (should be ~max load).

I use 80 gr in my 1-28 GM IBS barrel/TC Renegade and it shoots great groups. 90 gr groups are tight too, too but the kick is getting mule like.

Thank you , Mad Professor. The conicals that I have are 385 hollow end. Don't think at 80-90 gr the kick would be any worse than my 7mm Rem Mag. I don't mind them killing on both ends. LOL

 

[coprhed5454]

Thank you all for the info and advice! I scraped the barrel/breech plug, put Evaporust in it for 24 hrs, give it a good cleaning and took it out to the range on Wednesday. Ended up setting on 70 gr of FFG and 385 gr conicals. Gun shoots very well with that load and bullet and is great fun! Sights only adjust for windage so not sure if I want to leave them and just adjust my aim (more challenging for hunting) or replace them with a set of sights that adjust both elevation an windage. Will get some PRB and try them as well. At least for now I am ready for muzzleloader season on Saturday.

 

[coprhed5454]

Fouling scrapers work but if you've got a patent breech, an old bronze brush under bore size might work better, to clean the breech..

Make sure your ramrod attachment is sturdy/pinned, don't want a brush or a jag stuck in the bore.

When I first got started I got a jag stuck more than once, putting a dry patch down a fouled barrel. I shot it out using a little powder under the nipple. If you leave the ramrod attached, and aim straight up, the jag can be recovered easily as it comes back down with the ramrod. That won't work with a brush.

Reminded me of younger days when we shot arrows up in the air..........

We did the same thing, Mad Professor! LOL I am amazed sometimes that I am still alive with all of the stupid things I did as a kid. My ramrod broke on me just below the end of the barrel and had to shoot it out. Used 10 gr of powder through the drum and aimed it at the ground. Was really surprised that it came out with that little powder. Had tried 150 psi of air first and couldn't budge it. 10 gr pushed the rod in to the ground about 8 inches. I was amazed at the gas pressure that the powder has.