New to Traditional Muzzleloaders, and the "parts set"

[vette_lover2004]

I'm new to this forum, but not new to the site.

First some background so you can understand my love affairs new beginnings.

When I became first interested in flintlocks, I never knew there was such a thing as a "Parts Set". Then I did some research, and stumbled upon this forum, and a few youtube videos by Mike...A.k.a. Duelist1954. He showed a 20 gauge fowling piece, and I fell in love. Shotguns are a love affair of mine in the modern world, and I just had to have a "Traditional" style smoothbore if I could find one, but it had to be 12 bore.

Lots of research and searching makers of kits, and seeing who was who in the industry, led me to one maker in particular. Jim Chambers. And he conveniently offered a Colonial fowler in 12 gauge. I was on it hook, line, and sinker. Then I saw the price for such a kit. The barrel alone was $315 shipped, and the stock and hardware set was another $640. HOLY manure! But it was already too late in my mind and my subconscious was reaching for the credit card. So, I decided to make the phone call to North Carolina, after a few emails with Barbie, and place the order for the barrel first. That took two weeks, and after that, I ordered my kits remaining pieces. A plain curly maple stock with brass pieces and a Colonial Virginia Lock. And then...I waited

A few emails were exchanged with Barbie once again, asking about progress and if they were attending the Dixon's Gunmaker's Fair in Kempton, PA. Then a trip was made to Kempton, and Hamburg to satisfy my anxiety on the last Sunday of July this year. Supplies were bought and then...I waited some more.

Finally, on August 9th 2013, I received an email from Barbie once again. But, this time it was to tell me that my stock had been shipped and on its way to greet me. August 14th, there was a knock on my front door. The UPS man had a package for me.

So, as of today, I'm inletting the barrel, and squaring up the breech. I have a DVD, and one book for guidance. And, so far I've come to this conclusion.

"Swamped barrels are a B---H to inlet, and inletting black gets everywhere."

 

[Swamp Rat]

LOL :thumbsup: Just remember that there is a point you stop taking off the black.

 

[vette_lover2004]

Yeah, I know...I'm looking for that point when I get a nice long even impression of black telling me the barrel is sitting in the channel on all of its contact surface, correct? I have a high spot, because the barrel flats are starting to show longer impressions as I scrape more material away. I've inserted and removed that barrel at least 100 times so far...and I'm certain it'll be many more times :surrender:

 

[rich pierce]

If you are trying to get 100% contact, good luck. It's not necessary. Get 60 to 75% where it counts and you're good to go. If you're not used to inletting breeches, be careful to lift the barrel straight up at the breech else you change the angle and see black where it should not be.

It helps to work outside in daylight and to work from both sides of the gun. Poor indoor light and working from one side leads to bad inlets.

 

[vette_lover2004]

Does the breech have to be completely square as well...I've gotten it to where its pretty darn close...I've been shining a light along the top of the barrel to see where it shines through and using the black to see how its marking...i can get the barrel in and down about a 1mm from the breech then i tap it back and down with a rubber mallet...it seems to be doing what I need and I've gotten a pretty tight wood to metal fit on the breech...well, almost...its getting there I should say. I've been using my chisel as a scraper more than actual shaving...seems to work better to me. Any tips on making a scraper tool for the round channel?

 

[vette_lover2004]

Oh, I almost forgot something...I was basically trying to get the barrel flats to make contact...and have the lead edge of the round portion of barrel to make contact and i was going to call that good...that's probably 75% or so...so I guess i was on the same thought process as you. When I first started i kept asking myself how anyone gets them to contact completely with a partial round barrel. I guess I was thinking as long as a good majority touched it should be enough since the barrel is the support and not the wood. Plus, I have seen half stock guns, so that made sense to me.

 

[54ball]

Are you ready to inlet the barrel?

Have you confirmed breech plug fit into the barrel?

Have you drawfiled the barrel for close to final finish? Most come rough and need it. Some are so rough that after final finish they may be loose in their inlet if inletted in the rough.

Are you inletting the barrel down square without the breech plug installed?
It's best most of the time to inlet the barrel without the plug installed. This allows you to get the barrel square in the stock with good wood contact behind the breech. After the barrel is square in the stock , then you install the plug to the barrel and inlet the plug, tang and barrel down square.

Are you happy with how much barrel is going to show above the stock or put another way how deep do you want the barrel is in it's channel?
Most mid eighteenth century smooth bored guns and rifles had more than half of the barrel exposed above the wood. Some as much as 3/4. If you study originals you will see that in most cases more of the barrel side is revealed as you approach the lock and breech. The taper is slight. It's best to refer to original work to see this.
To expose more of the barrel you need to file the wood rails of the barrel channel down. Pay attention to the wrist transition and refer to original or good contemporary work for this.

Note how much barrel is exposed. Note the swoop of the wood as it seeps up to meet the corner flat.

Note how much of the barrel shows in the guns above at the lock. You may be happy with how it is now. This is just something to consider. Do not get ahead of yourself but some of these architectural details need to be considered now.

When it comes come time to fit the tang you can file some of it thinner. Most plugs come like this.

This is a hooked tang but you can thin it.

 

[vette_lover2004]

Yes...I drawfiled the barrel, and a breech was already installed and fitted

I've removed the breech and have the bare barrel. I'm nearly square at the breech face to wood contact...the wood on my stock was pre-inlet 90% so I've not much choice as to where much goes, other than barrel depth...I decided to follow James Turpins video as he suggests getting the barrel below the wood so as to bring the tang down as well and sand the wood down to it...it is a Jim Chambers kit after all, and the video is recommended for their kits